What sort of steering setup do I have here?

NWPA Jeepy T

NWPA Jeepy T

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
706
Location
NW PA
2001 Sahara
4.0 5 sp
4 inch lift 33s
I was told it's a full size bronco steering box, but I can't make heads or tails of the rest. What's stock, what's not? It's squirrely all over the road.
We're thinking about going back to a stock box with a stock pitman arm and ZJ steering, but what about the rest of it? Thanks

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Well the draglink and tie rod are stock and the box is a saginaw type so that looks ok. You do have a aftermarket track bar with drop bracket and probably not enough drop in the pitman arm to match. Can you post pics of the trackbar frame bracket so we can see if you can take the add on stuff off?
 
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I found out part of the squirrely was PO had the tires inflated to 47 PSI!!! I think he was trying to float it!! Any ideas where model of box would be found? I couldn't see it
 
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Blackjack said:
47 PSI is a bit much for sure.

The box appears to be a Cardone reman for a Durango https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=357799&jsn=3 Ideally your biggest issue right off the bat would be to ditch that track bar and bracket and go to a RockJock https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS

And you are missing at least one fastener on your front bumper.
Click to expand...

I'll check that rockjock and box out tomorrow. that's our tow bumper. Holes didn't line up on the bottom, so we double bolted it on top to get it home
 
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Blackjack said:
47 PSI is a bit much for sure.

The box appears to be a Cardone reman for a Durango https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=357799&jsn=3 Ideally your biggest issue right off the bat would be to ditch that track bar and bracket and go to a RockJock https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS

And you are missing at least one fastener on your front bumper.
Click to expand...

Just curious what about that rockjock track bar warrants the steep price tag vs what I have. Not trying to be difficult and definitely want stability, but...
 
Blackjack said:
47 PSI is a bit much for sure.

The box appears to be a Cardone reman for a Durango https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=357799&jsn=3 Ideally your biggest issue right off the bat would be to ditch that track bar and bracket and go to a RockJock https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS

And you are missing at least one fastener on your front bumper.
Click to expand...

So what I've been seeing in my track bar studies is that double bend tb may be the problem. MY TJ (this one in question is my son's - we both have a 4" lift) has a straight tb that arcs up over the diff. I think it's this RC HD one. I might start there

https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1052.html
 
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NWPA Jeepy T said:
So what I've been seeing in my track bar studies is that double bend tb may be the problem. MY TJ (this one in question is my son's - we both have a 4" lift) has a straight tb that arcs up over the diff. I think it's this RC HD one. I might start there

[URL]https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1052.html[/URL]
Click to expand...

Doesn’t matter how many bends in a track bar, it just needs to be parallel to your drag link. The dropped trackbar mount is throwing that out of whack in your case.

I’d stay away from anything Ruff country.

The reason the rock jock is the best is the ends it’s uses and the clearance it provides.

The metal cloak TB has a decent shape and is cheaper, but the heim joint it uses has a short life span in my experience.
 
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Blackjack said:
Well the draglink and tie rod are stock and the box is a saginaw type so that looks ok. You do have a aftermarket track bar with drop bracket and probably not enough drop in the pitman arm to match. Can you post pics of the trackbar frame bracket so we can see if you can take the add on stuff off?
Click to expand...

We need to start asking if they are going to take the advice given. If not, just let us know so we can figure out how much effort to put into solving their problems.
 
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mrblaine said:
We need to start asking if they are going to take the advice given. If not, just let us know so we can figure out how much effort to put into solving their problems.
Click to expand...

I posted pics up above. I'm trying to balance the advice with the checkbook. Start with removing the drop bracket and going to stock, using the existing track bar
 
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NWPA Jeepy T said:
I posted pics up above. I'm trying to balance the advice with the checkbook. Start with removing the drop bracket and going to stock, using the existing track bar
Click to expand...

If you try to reuse the existing bar, you may have to drill out the stock mount to work with a 5/8" bolt and that is now mostly irreversible or very difficult to convert back to a tapered hole. If you plan to only use that style of bar going forward, no biggie.
 
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Which part of the TB am I trying to parallel to the DL? The beginning part that is horizontal in my 1st pic, or the angled part? If it's the angled part, moving the TB up will make that worse, so I'm assuming the currently horizontal part?

Oh God, even I don't understand my gibberish
 
NWPA Jeepy T said:
Which part of the TB am I trying to parallel to the DL? The beginning part that is horizontal in my 1st pic, or the angled part? If it's the angled part, moving the TB up will make that worse, so I'm assuming the currently horizontal part?

Oh God, even I don't understand my gibberish
Click to expand...

You aren't trying to parallel any part of it. You want the two effective pivot points between the draglink and trackbar to be roughly parallel and mostly in the same plane front to back. In other words, if you stretched strings between the pivot points, the two strings define the effective pivot points.
 
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