What u-joints come on the TJ?

@Jerry Bransford Just to confirm the Exc. listed on the Denny's doc means excluding?

So a 2006 LJR the 2 spot (front driveshaft to axel) requires a 5-793x.

JeepTJ-JKChart.jpg
 
@Jerry Bransford

I’ve read through this thread and a couple others trying to determine for myself which u joints I need, but a few variables are making it a little confusing so I figured I would ask you and get a definite answer to eliminate any mistakes.
my Jeep is a 2001 sport but I have rubicon d44s front and rear, SYE and CV driveshaft. I’d like to get the upgraded stronger u joints, wherever possible. When you have time could you please let me know the part numbers and quantity I need. If you need any pictures of the cv shaft or anything just let me know.

I’ll be doing chromo axle shafts soon and want to go ahead and replace/upgrade to stronger u joints on the axles and driveshafts at the same time.
 
@Jerry Bransford

I’ve read through this thread and a couple others trying to determine for myself which u joints I need, but a few variables are making it a little confusing so I figured I would ask you and get a definite answer to eliminate any mistakes.
my Jeep is a 2001 sport but I have rubicon d44s front and rear, SYE and CV driveshaft. I’d like to get the upgraded stronger u joints, wherever possible. When you have time could you please let me know the part numbers and quantity I need. If you need any pictures of the cv shaft or anything just let me know.

I’ll be doing chromo axle shafts soon and want to go ahead and replace/upgrade to stronger u joints on the axles and driveshafts at the same time.
The u-joints vary by Rubicon axle model year, 2003-4 or 2005-6. Do you know what model year Rubicon your axles came out of?
 
@Jerry Bransford

I’ve read that, and I’m not 100% certain which year they came from. What are some indicators or a cast number or something I can look for to differentiate.
i appreciate it man.
 
You're going to have to use something very accurate to measure the pinion shaft u-joint yokes on both axles to determine their sizes.

https://spicerparts.com/resources/measuring-u-joints
The dimensions of the possible u-joints can be looked up based on the models shown above in the chart. But you also have to know what size yokes are on your driveshafts. You can also choose to install the size yokes you want on the axles to match your driveshaft yokes, 1310 or 1330. 1310 is usually plenty, 1330 can be used for more demanding uses.
 
10-4. Thank you sir. I have a scale, I’ll try to get some measurements tomorrow and get back with you.
I’d rather go with the 1330. I don’t think it would be “necessary “ in my application, but I want to build it to be able to handle some demanding situations, in hopes of eventually taking it out west somewhere.
 
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@Jerry Bransford
I have been slammed lately and haven’t had time to measure the u joints yet. I was thinking though, I’m planning to upgrade to RGA chromoly shafts front and rear so I don’t THINK the axle u joint size would be an issue then since the fronts come with new u joints.
Since the issue is different size u joints for different year model rubicon axles, 03-04 and 05-06, Do I still need to measure the driveshaft u joints or can I just go with the 1330 without issue? To recap the rear has a CV shaft, not sure of manufacturer.
thank you sir.
 
@Jerry Bransford
I have been slammed lately and haven’t had time to measure the u joints yet. I was thinking though, I’m planning to upgrade to RGA chromoly shafts front and rear so I don’t THINK the axle u joint size would be an issue then since the fronts come with new u joints.
Since the issue is different size u joints for different year model rubicon axles, 03-04 and 05-06, Do I still need to measure the driveshaft u joints or can I just go with the 1330 without issue? To recap the rear has a CV shaft, not sure of manufacturer.
thank you sir.
You have to know what size u-joints the driveshaft is set up for. Factory size is 1310 but you have an aftermarket CV shaft which is probably 1310 but it could be 1330 too.
 
Jerry, I have a 2006 unlimited Rubicon manual trans, I am looking at buying a kit for all 8. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ujoint-packagedeal1133 not sure if these numbers match yours since it is a kit. If you have better ones for me to purchase can you tell me which one for the 2006 unlimited Rubicon the link above shows them as different for a standard Rubicon and an unlimited Rubicon.
Thank you for all your knowledge and your willingness to share it with us.
 
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Jerry, I have a 2006 unlimited Rubicon, I am looking at buying a kit for all 8. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ujoint-packagedeal1133 not sure if these numbers match yours since it is a kit. If you have better ones for me to purchase can you tell me which one for the 2006 unlimited Rubicon the link above shows them as different for a standard Rubicon and an unlimited Rubicon.
Thank you for all your knowledge and your willingness to share it with us.
@Jerry Bransford is just going to tell you to get Spicer as he has stated many times.
 
Jerry, I have a 2006 unlimited Rubicon, I am looking at buying a kit for all 8. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ujoint-packagedeal1133 not sure if these numbers match yours since it is a kit. If you have better ones for me to purchase can you tell me which one for the 2006 unlimited Rubicon the link above shows them as different for a standard Rubicon and an unlimited Rubicon.
Thank you for all your knowledge and your willingness to share it with us.
As above, I'm mostly a Spicer guy for u-joints (I have CTM axle shaft u-joints). Spicer makes sealed u-joints that fit the Rubicon's mixed sizes, where the same u-joint is 1310 on one side but 1330 on the other. But what I did, partly to eliminate the mix of sizes, was to convert all to 1330 size. That required a 1330 size yoke or two but it was worth it. I went with the sealed versions which are more durable and longer lasting in all uses but regular deep soupy mud uses. The exact Spicer u-joint I went with was 5-1330x. Denny's can provide those.
 
There are actually seven u-joints on our TJs, two on the axle shafts and five on the front / rear driveshafts.

Two front axle shaft u-joints:
The factory u-joint on standard (non Rubicon models) is a Spicer 5-297. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-760x u-joint which was specially designed for the Rubicon at Jeep's request.

Driveshaft u-joints:
The stock driveshaft u-joints are Spicer 1310. There are three u-joints up front and two in the rear. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-1310x which is sealed, as well as a stronger and more durable directly replacement upgrade for the standard Spicer 1310 size u-joint.

Notes:
The TJ Rubicon uses different driveshaft u-joints and I'll have to recompile my list of those since they vary between 2003-2004 and 2005-2006 Rubicons. All years of the TJ Rubicon came standard with the Spicer 5-760x front axle shaft u-joints.
Jerry sorry to disturb you, I have the 04 Rubi, and trying to compile the all the U joints and have spares
 
There are actually seven u-joints on our TJs, two on the axle shafts and five on the front / rear driveshafts.

Two front axle shaft u-joints:
The factory u-joint on standard (non Rubicon models) is a Spicer 5-297. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-760x u-joint which was specially designed for the Rubicon at Jeep's request.

Driveshaft u-joints:
The stock driveshaft u-joints are Spicer 1310. There are three u-joints up front and two in the rear. A highly recommended upgrade is the Spicer 5-1310x which is sealed, as well as a stronger and more durable directly replacement upgrade for the standard Spicer 1310 size u-joint.

Notes:
The TJ Rubicon uses different driveshaft u-joints and I'll have to recompile my list of those since they vary between 2003-2004 and 2005-2006 Rubicons. All years of the TJ Rubicon came standard with the Spicer 5-760x front axle shaft u-joints.
Jerry sorry to disturb you, I have the 04 Rubi, and trying to compile the all the U joints and have spares
 
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Jerry sorry to disturb you, I have the 04 Rubi, and trying to compile the all the U joints and have spares
I have a good link to great web page and diagram of the various Rubicon u-joint configurations I can give you Wednesday. Remind me Wednesday if I get sidetracked.

Edit: Here you go. Go for the sealed versions. Note the chart has the TJ Rubicon split into two lines, 2003-4 and 2005-6.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2..._for_2003_to_2006_jeep_tj_rubicon_with_o.html
 
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Hi guys sorry for the necro,

I suddenly (normal highway driving) developed a shudder/vibration when my 06 Rubicon is under load, ceases when no gas applied and cruising along with no load. Took it to a local big name shop and told them I suspect the drive shaft u-joints.

A day later I get it back, and they said it was the front universal joints at axle shaft at wheels. $920 bucks later and I drive it a 1/4 mile to where I work and the issue is still glaringly there. When confronted they said that the front ones they replaced were the first thing that needed to be ruled out, and there's nothing wrong with the rear drive shaft joints. Again, the issue is ONLY when under load. It lessens a little when I put it into 4WD. They also said that the ball joints are going bad as well as the rear control arms, which they claim "contribute to the issue" I am having. Yeah, totally sounds like a suspension issue, right? /s

They want me to come back and take a technician for a ride so I can show them the symptom I am speaking of (Again, it is GLARING when accelerating/under load).

Seriously considering contacting my CC company to hold/cancel charges.
 
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So turns out I was right from the get go. Bad u-joint in the rear drive shaft. They are willing to waive the cost of the new u-joint and only charge me labor ($233) to swap it. Meanwhile I am looking at complete shafts with u-joints for under $400 that would simply need swapped with the 8 bolts.

So, have them do the 1 u-joint, or do the whole shaft myself when weather gets nicer?
 
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So they're gonna waive the cost of a u joint and charge you 233 labor to fix something they should done the first time. Tell them to waive the labor and charge you for the part that they didn't fix the first time.

Which local big name shop did you go to 4WP?
 
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So turns out I was right from the get go. Bad u-joint in the rear drive shaft. They are willing to waive the cost of the new u-joint and only charge me labor ($233) to swap it. Meanwhile I am looking at complete shafts with u-joints for under $400 that would simply need swapped with the 8 bolts.

So, have them do the 1 u-joint, or do the whole shaft myself when weather gets nicer?

That literally is a 40 minute job including the R&R of the shaft. So even if they charge one hour at $120 and two joints it should still be under $200 out the door total.
 
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