What's the best battery setup?

Christoph0315

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hey,
I'm currently working on replacing all the cables in preparation for my Hifi upgrade. Going forward, and to be on the safe side, what can you guys recommend me in terms of Battery/Power supply?
I remember from my old days as a teenager that the light started flickering when the bass of the woofer was kicking in...that's the last thing I need right now.
would you recommend to go with 2 batteries or is this overkill? I don't plan to run extensive light bars and winches and stuff. However, I don't want to touch things twice so I figured I ask for input here. I had a gel battery in my oldtimer and a kill switch. Kill switch is convenient for the winter when I'm not daily driving. Is there anything available in that alley?

thx!
 
Two batteries are overkill even if there's a winch. I've even winched my Jeep off the trail a couple times on battery power alone when the engine couldn't be started. Once the problem was fixed it started no problem with no jump battery needed.

Personally I'm a big believer in AGM (absorbed glass matting) batteries that are built tougher and are less susceptible to damage from the normal shocks & vibrations of offroading. Most auto parts stores carry AGM batteries, just get the one with the best warranty you can afford.

I would avoid Optima batteries now, their reputation tanked after Johnson Controls bought them and moved their manufacturing to Mexico.

It's also doubtful your 'oldtimer' ran a gel cell battery as they require special charging systems that normal cars and Jeeps don't have. Not to mention gel cell batteries make for pretty poor starting batteries. Contrary to rumors, Optima's batteries are and never were gel cell designs. :)
 
Instead of two batteries invest in a top tier AGM like Odyssey, Northstar and the like. Even though the parts stores now offer AGMs they are not of the same quality or capacity.
 
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It's also doubtful your 'oldtimer' ran a gel cell battery as they require special charging systems that normal cars and Jeeps don't have. Not to mention gel cell batteries make for pretty poor starting batteries. Contrary to rumors, Optima's batteries are and never were gel cell designs. :)

Ok, not sure what it is at the end but it worked. :)

https://www.netzwerk-911-shop.de/sh...alu-halter-für-leichtbaubatterie-porsche-911/

I had a hawker pc680

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ILK6I/?tag=wranglerorg-20

and it was perfect for an old Porsche. In combination with the kill switch I left the car like that in November and came back in February and got her running in a second.
 
Connect your audio equipment directly to the battery OR install a terminal BUSS fed from the battery that will power up your equipment.
You should upgrade your battery cables to better quality cables, install a good quality AGM battery as previously recommended and if that is not sufficient; you can install a higher amp rated alternator.
 
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If you put in a really high power amplifier you could put a large capacitor next to it. That can be a very inexpensive solution to those short high power bursts car, I mean Jeep audio sometimes needs. @Chris and a few others here have really nice audio setups and they are worth a read, I think he even bought a PC laptop just to tune his audio amplifier. There also was a good discussion about battery cable replacement options recently.

THX seems appropriate for this.
 
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I was also thinking about this the other day. I listened to music with the new head unit and sub without the engine running while I was replacing the rear brakes the other day and it barely started afterwards. 200 - 300 watts will drain a standard battery quick. Anyone have a larger AGM installed. looks like only the standard size will fit.
 
Zero problems with the good ol' Kirkland from Costco. Costco's are everywhere and others really can't beat their prorating schedule when buying/replacing. I was told they source them from Interstate. Price is right too!
 
Unfortunately, Costcos aren't everywhere. I was a member for probably 30 years, but there aren't any anywhere near me now!
 
hey,
I'm currently working on replacing all the cables in preparation for my Hifi upgrade. Going forward, and to be on the safe side, what can you guys recommend me in terms of Battery/Power supply?
I remember from my old days as a teenager that the light started flickering when the bass of the woofer was kicking in...that's the last thing I need right now.
would you recommend to go with 2 batteries or is this overkill? I don't plan to run extensive light bars and winches and stuff. However, I don't want to touch things twice so I figured I ask for input here. I had a gel battery in my oldtimer and a kill switch. Kill switch is convenient for the winter when I'm not daily driving. Is there anything available in that alley?

thx!
I see that you're located in Toronto. I've been going with Eliminator (AGM) batteries from Canadian Tire for years. I replaced the one in my LJ about a month ago with the one below. They go on sale fairly often ... including now.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...size-34-battery-750-cca-0103420p.0103420.html
 
Recently fabricated 4 ga battery cables including the additional grounds and use an Interstate battery. I agree about not installing the additional audio equipment due to the ease of access and removal. This is why I am still debating on the installation of a UHF/VHF Ham Radio in the Jeep. I have a detachable faced radio that is almost 10 years old which does the job just fine and is not very desirable to the thieves.
 
Instead of two batteries invest in a top tier AGM like Odyssey, Northstar and the like. Even though the parts stores now offer AGMs they are not of the same quality or capacity.

This is so true! My old DieHard Platinum finally died hard. I didn't have time to replace it with another quality battery, but did get another AGM from Advance. Want to see what a quality battery looks like? Here's my old DieHard on a scale, along with the replacement. See the difference!


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ximVeSW.jpg
 
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Short summary of available battery types for TJ's and what I have found to be the best buy in each category:

1. Conventional Flooded Lead Acid - Costco Interstate Group 34, approx. $90, comes with "no questions asked" 42 month full replacement warranty.

2. Lead/Calcium AGM - Deka Intimidator Group 34, NAPA Legend AGM Group 34, O'Reilly SuperStart Platinum AGM, Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM (all exactly the same battery made by East Penn), $160 on average. Available in Group 34/78 with side posts as well for a bit more. I believe Duracell AGM's are also East Penn lead/calcium AGMs. Bosch is also a mid-tier lead/calcium AGM.

3. Pure lead AGM - Odyssey and Northstar, close to $300 on average.

Think of it as Good, Better and Best.


My next battery will be a Deka Intimidator AGM, probably sourced from NAPA with the NAPA Legend AGM label (better warranty and NAPA stores everywhere). I purchased a Costco Interstate Group 34 conventional flooded lead acid battery when I purchased my LJ in 2017 because I needed something quickly, and thus far haven't been able to kill it.


Notice that there are no Wally World or Optima batteries on my list.
 
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Can't beat the Odyssey/Northstar/Bosch AGM batteries. My previous Diehard Platinum battery was made by Odyssey and it was over 10 years old when it finally gave up the ghost.
This is good to hear. I had an Interstate last 10 years, so I swear by them, but its good to know there are other "just as good" brands out there. Thank you.
 
. . . Want to see what a quality battery looks like? Here's my old DieHard on a scale [49.2#], along with the replacement [39#]. See the difference. . . !

What you are illustrating is the difference in weight between a pure lead AGM and a lead/calcium AGM. It is different technology used for a product at a different price point.

I posted an article long ago from a fleet management trade magazine that discussed the differences in the context of police and public safety vehicles. The article made the same "good, better, best" comparison as I did above. The article did not characterize lead/calcium AGM batteries as undesirable in any way. To the contrary, the article concluded that the mid-tier lead/calcium AGM such as a Deka Intimidator is the best buy for the severe duty use of a police vehicle and that the additional expense of a pure lead AGM is usually unnecessary in that context.