What's the condition of your paint?

Yes and no. You can clay bar at any time, it removes anything stuck on the surface. It does not remove any product on the paint. I use it after cut to make it easier on me, and in a resto you want to use it before any product build back happens. So yes you could start with it but the cut part of the process is going to remove a lot of what the clay bar would be making the job then easier for the clay bar and more importantly the user.



I'll have to check out his videos, I watched from where you had it marked and that is good info. The key to what I think he is leading to is get it right then have enough product on it to take the abuse so you don't have to work so hard to "Buff it out"

It's a pretty entertaining and informative series of videos. He even goes so far as to dance on the hood of his junk car to show the real damage and swirls, and how much you can expect to get out polishing it.
 
I like to wash with a soap that will strip the waxes off during a wash like citrus wash from Chemical guys, then I clay bar to get the impurities out. I would not want to put a buffer on before clay bar but that is just me.
 
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98 180K might have been painted before, but if so it was a professional job. When I first got mine it was shiny with some dull spots. I washed mine with a pressure washer and a soap gun. I then rinsed with a pressure washer then hand washed, and then clay barred. I then waxed it with some paste wax on the paint and 301 aerospace on the black bits. Now I wash with car wash (unless I am going to wax in which case I will pressure wash it with good dish soap.) Then I always hand dry. If I don't get it dry in time and leave spots, I may wax it anyway. I was told my Jeep sat for a while in a garage, that is why I am thinking is why the paint still looks good.

It is important to me to keep it clean and looking nice, but still go out and play in it. I don't really play as hard as I used to when I was much younger, but I still do take it out. If the paint does start to fade or peal, I am not sure to what extent I will go to save it. It is a 98 with close to 200K on it.
 
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Mine could be better, working to get parts repainted as I have funds. Rock chips and some peeling around the seams on the grill/good and then a big spot by the windshield is down to primer

Some chips and things on the tailgate too.

View attachment 40141

I got the same thing going on with mine just like yours but on both sides, I have plans to take that piece off and drop it off to be painted black, its currently sliver like the rest of my jeep
 
I have an 01 with 225,000 miles on it. Paint is a disaster because I couldn't care less about it. My jeep sat in the sun for 3 months straight causing the hood to peel a bit. The entire body is pinstriped, there are a few sections where rocks scraped against the side, and the black paint on the mirrors isn't in great shape. Theres a dent on the front of the hood thats been there since 2009 (you can actually kind of see it in the photo below).It is a jeep and it is going to get scratched and dented.

Goes around looking like this half the time anyway:

553Um5k.jpg
 
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I like to wash with a soap that will strip the waxes off during a wash like citrus wash from Chemical guys, then I clay bar to get the impurities out. I would not want to put a buffer on before clay bar but that is just me.
Ah yes Cliffish I agree with you, I suppose I did not clarify that the process I layed out was for oxidized or dulled paint (still with a clear coat). If your paint is still shiny and you were just shining it up more or protecting it you would not be doing a full cut and finish, just the finish. In that case you would want to use the clay bar to remove the grit as to not scratch the paint when buffing. When doing a cut using the diamond cut or a rubbing compound you are essentially sanding the surface with a liquid therefore I don't see a need to do it first. As I said though you could but you'll save some elbow grease. Not arguing, just thought I would clarify the difference between a cut and finish and just maintaining a finish.
 
Ah yes Cliffish I agree with you, I suppose I did not clarify that the process I layed out was for oxidized or dulled paint (still with a clear coat). If your paint is still shiny and you were just shining it up more or protecting it you would not be doing a full cut and finish, just the finish. In that case you would want to use the clay bar to remove the grit as to not scratch the paint when buffing. When doing a cut using the diamond cut or a rubbing compound you are essentially sanding the surface with a liquid therefore I don't see a need to do it first. As I said though you could but you'll save some elbow grease. Not arguing, just thought I would clarify the difference between a cut and finish and just maintaining a finish.
no arguing...just clarifying ...no worries. I have never specifically used diamond cut so was not aware of the level of abrasiveness...I see what you were getting at.:)
 
I got the same thing going on with mine just like yours but on both sides, I have plans to take that piece off and drop it off to be painted black, its currently sliver like the rest of my jeep

Yeah I got a quote to paint that panel for $350 in the bay matching factory which I think I'm going to do, the nice thing about white is it blends decent.
 
99' in Steel Blue...original paint has held up well in the NZ sun...some paint chipped off on the front edge of the bonnet (hood) which is the norm ...I use Meguiars Ultimate Wash & Wax about once a month.
 
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My 2005 TJR is the same color (body and top) as yours. I have a "neat gene" when it comes to my vehicles but in all honesty, unless the paint on the TJR gets really bad, I tend to live with it simply because of how I use it. It is liberally decorated on both sides with what we refer to as "Arizona Pin Striping".I have made some effort at buffing some of those out, but since they are in the clear coat, it is pretty much a counterproductive effort since they would be replaced in no time at all. I care more about my TJ's dependability whenever far, far , back in the wilderness area. Try to keep my priorities straight.
 
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Thanks for all of the replies! I've done a lot of work to preserve my paint as much as I can, but now I'm starting to think about de-prioritizing the finish and just take care of anything that has signs of rust.

That said, I have invested far more time and effort on the underside for preventing rust than anything else. Luckily I have only encountered minor surface rust here and there (mainly on the bumpers and a couple of hidden areas of my lift's welds).
 
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My 2005 TJR is the same color (body and top) as yours. I have a "neat gene" when it comes to my vehicles but in all honesty, unless the paint on the TJR gets really bad, I tend to live with it simply because of how I use it. It is liberally decorated on both sides with what we refer to as "Arizona Pin Striping".I have made some effort at buffing some of those out, but since they are in the clear coat, it is pretty much a counterproductive effort since they would be replaced in no time at all. I care more about my TJ's dependability whenever far, far , back in the wilderness area. Try to keep my priorities straight.

I just finished a grad degree and I am trying to relocate the family to Phoenix from CO ASAP. Hopefully the paint on the Jeep will hold up out there, lol
 
04 with 15k Miles shes in good shape for the most part. awesome for a jeep but terrible for a detailer. i do that on the side and look at my rig and think why did these people hire me to detail their vehicle lol. mine has rock chips up front and crows feet on the hood nothing to crazy.
 
I have some serious spider cracks in the clear coat on my hood. The rest of the Jeep is fine. Wish I knew how to get them out other than a repaint.
if the cracks are not all of the way to the paint, and there is enough left you can buff them out, but unfortunately if they are, you will most likely have to repaint. Although if it is just your hood, it might only cost an arm, you can probably keep both of your legs.
 
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04 with 15k Miles shes in good shape for the most part. awesome for a jeep but terrible for a detailer. i do that on the side and look at my rig and think why did these people hire me to detail their vehicle lol. mine has rock chips up front and crows feet on the hood nothing to crazy.

Do you use a foam gun in your detailing side job? I'm trying to decide if I should invest in a foam gun, and if it would work better at cleaning the jeep.
 
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Do you use a foam gun in your detailing side job? I'm trying to decide if I should invest in a foam gun, and if it would work better at cleaning the jeep.

I dont personally I hear that they are good but i just use the two picket method and on occasion i will use a foam gun not as thick suds. To me this isn’t a big deal to not use one it’s a pre soak feature to loosen the dirt and grime. Then you still wash after wards as normal.


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