What's the Difference Between Power Trax Grip Pro and Detroit Trutracs?

Leroy_TJ

Leroy_TJ

2006 Jeep TJ Wrangler X
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What is the difference between the power trax grip pro and the Detroit Truetracs ?
My next phase on my Jeep is the regear and differential carriers.
the Jeep 4.0 6spd currently has 3:07 gears and I will be going to 4:56 gears and 33’s. Still in the fence if I want to go with dura tracs front and rear or the power trax. Another option would be true trac or power trax in the rear and a no slip lunch box locker in the front (I would still need a carrier for the new gear set)
My Jeep is a dd and my only vehicle , really don’t need lockers for what I use the Jeep for plus they are not in the budget. I use the Jeep for point a to b , off-road would be moderate nothing extreme. Open to any suggestions, mostly researching now.
 
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If you don't need a locker I would strongly suggest not to put a lunchbox or real locker of any kind in the front. It is a huge pain. I wheel in conditions where I need a traction device and totally regret it. I should have saved for something better like a selectable in the rear instead. If you do end up with a lunchbox in the front and you ever put it in 4WD you really need the good spicer joints in your front axle shafts and a power steering cooler to go with it.
 
pagrey said:
If you don't need a locker I would strongly suggest not to put a lunchbox or real locker of any kind in the front. It is a huge pain. I wheel in conditions where I need a traction device and totally regret it. I should have saved for something better like a selectable in the rear instead. If you do end up with a lunchbox in the front and you ever put it in 4WD you really need the good spicer joints in your front axle shafts and a power steering cooler to go with it.
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I am leaning more towards the true tracs front and rear tbh. The wheeling I do is very limited. I am mainly using the Jeep for camping and travel. I mainly use backroads some are dirt. Some are well maintained others not so much.
 
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My plan is to go with truetracs in the front and back. I don’t imagine ever being in a situation where I have a wheel off the ground in a crawling situation.

Ive had limited slip on a truck and I really liked the traction boost for the type of driving I do, which is all I need.

I do agree with the other commenter, regearing and all that is way too expensive to change your mind.
 
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I agree, for what I am using the Jeep for I think the dura tracs would be good.
Reading another thread and suggested a couple times a tru track rear and Aussie or no slip front would be the best of both worlds.
 
Leroy_TJ said:
I agree, for what I am using the Jeep for I think the dura tracs would be good.
Reading another thread and suggested a couple times a tru track rear and Aussie or no slip front would be the best of both worlds.
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In a similar thread as this, I was recommended the same thing (TT in rear, Aussie in the front) but I like the simplicity of TT in both. I have great confidence in how they operate and what to expect.

You may want to check on the gear selection though. I'm going 4.56 with a 5 speed and 33s. I think I've seen in another thread people recommending 4.10 for six speeds. Please check me on that.
 
Midtenn said:
In a similar thread as this, I was recommended the same thing (TT in rear, Aussie in the front) but I like the simplicity of TT in both. I have great confidence in how they operate and what to expect.

You may want to check on the gear selection though. I'm going 4.56 with a 5 speed and 33s. I think I've seen in another thread people recommending 4.10 for six speeds. Please check me on that.
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I started with the 4:10 , but was told to go with 4:56 for the 33’s. Recommended by @Jerry Bransford
 
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partially copy/pasted from another thread I just posted on:

I have TrueTrac's in both my front and rear and love them.
It's my daily (only) driver and I see more than my fair share of snow/ice conditions, which influenced my decision heavily.
So far, I have never gotten stuck or unable to complete an obstacle my Jeep group does, which includes a couple mud spots that locked Rubicons got stuck on. (weight, tuck, tires, driver, luck, etc, can also factor in that).

*note: there were some very steep rock climbs I bypassed that the the 4-door Rubicons did.
1 locked TJ also did it, but nearly flipped.
So essentially the TrueTrac's have never failed me on anything I was brave enough to attempt. Key word being "brave", lol.

Another great feature of the TrueTrac is the lack of required maintenance:
You don't need (or want actually) any special friction modifier added.
It also "just works" vs flipping a switch and hoping the air compressor/electrics/etc are functioning.
And unlike the factor LSD, there are no clutch packs that wear out and require replacing.
And a "feature" over a selectable locker is that there is less risk to snapping your axle/u-joint/etc, which is nice.

Also of note - you mentioned "dura tracs" twice so far. Just to help you with your search/research, you may be inter-switching "duratrac" (which is a tire) with TrueTrac (which is the helical limited-slip differential).
And be careful not to confuse the Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac with what is often referred to as the "Detroit locker". Both are "Detroit" differentials, but the "Detroit locker" is a true auto locker (and a great one at that).

Then again, I seem to keep capitalizing the 2nd "T" in TrueTrac when Eaton does not, so I'm not one to talk, lol.
 
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Midtenn said:
Sounds good. I trust him.
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I have nothing personal against Jerry or his experience, but i have everything against his reputation.
Nearly every thread i have seen, died because Jerry showed up, and his worshipers unquestionably lined up to follow his word.
Over the time, he did go from speaking down on TT to rewording it in a way that "he had a bad experience with them, for his situation"... But, people don't question him, or what his situation was.
He has very helpful knowledge, but his presence creates a situation of horde of blind sheep following the blindest sheep.


Sunder said:
partially copy/pasted from another thread I just posted on:

I have TrueTrac's in both my front and rear and love them.
It's my daily (only) driver and I see more than my fair share of snow/ice conditions, which influenced my decision heavily.
So far, I have never gotten stuck or unable to complete an obstacle my Jeep group does, which includes a couple mud spots that locked Rubicons got stuck on. (weight, tuck, tires, driver, luck, etc, can also factor in that).
Click to expand...

Nothing against you, but mud is mud. Getting out of the mud is a combination of luck.
You had X + Y and just happened to hit the patch of Z = you got out. Someone else wasn't so lucky.
One time i had to floor it, and go around stuck Rubi in a mud puddle, with my open difs. I got out, he had to be pulled out... Are my open difs superior to rubi lockers in mud?!
TT front and rear is a phenomenal and effective combo, but don't use sample that would over-glorify, because it has situations where it goes from awesome to waste of $3000 real quick.
 
Leroy_TJ said:
What is the difference between the power trax grip pro and the Detroit Truetracs ?
My next phase on my Jeep is the regear and differential carriers.
the Jeep 4.0 6spd currently has 3:07 gears and I will be going to 4:56 gears and 33’s. Still in the fence if I want to go with dura tracs front and rear or the power trax. Another option would be true trac or power trax in the rear and a no slip lunch box locker in the front (I would still need a carrier for the new gear set)
My Jeep is a dd and my only vehicle , really don’t need lockers for what I use the Jeep for plus they are not in the budget. I use the Jeep for point a to b , off-road would be moderate nothing extreme. Open to any suggestions, mostly researching now.
Click to expand...

I will give you my answer to your actual question. What is the difference between the powertrax grip pro and the Detroit True-Trac. Nothing functionally, They are both full carrier Gear type posi's . They are both biased by wheel speed and send some power to the wheel with the most traction after the wheel with the least traction has started to spin.

I have learned that they are both made over seas. The Powertrax and the Detroit get great reviews. I have seen some reviews of the powertrax failing and small chunks went through a new ring gear. Some people reported the Powertrax as feeling "tighter" than the Detroit TT.

I personally have had Detroit TT's front and rear in a Wrangler at one point, a YJ. Installed by myself, it was a Dana 30Hp front and Ford 8.8 rear 4.56 gears and 33's. It worked "OK" off road. That is my honest opinion. And for the type of driving you describe they will be great. In snow and loose dirt/sand they were great. Aggressive trails they were a let down, again for me.

For me, I liked to play around and tires would lift and they did not deliver what I was looking for. And yes I tried the modulate the brake pedal and parking brake, it didn't work for me. They work with a wheel in the air, but the wheel in the air will spin and the wheel on the ground will slowly hop and "may" get you moving.

Again, for what you are describing, I think you will love front and rear True-Tracs. I believe the powertrax diffs are less money. I have recently called Powertrax to ask about their Powertrax Grip-lok llocker, the representative on the phone had no idea about their products and I was unimpressed and ordered a Detroit locker instead. I couldn't find a single review online of anybody running Powertrax's Grip-lok anywhere. Which was weird to me, I found a few of the grip-pro and it seems to be accepted as OK.

My Vote is for the True-Tracs over the powertrax. but you will be good with either most likely.
 
@Sunder , I appreciate it. I tried to edit the post and title once I caught the dura tracs lol !
@eastbloc, do you think 4:56 is to deep for 33’s ? I am very new to all this and want to do it right the first time.
@Cross-Threaded-06TJ, thank you. I think the true tracs will fit the bill for what I want. Another option is running a true trac rear and an Aussie front lunch box locker. I also called power trac today and the rep for customer service had no idea about the grip pro other than it was made manufactured in India and assembled in the US.
I don’t know how to multi quote, again I am new to all this and appreciate all the help.
 
Leroy_TJ said:
@eastbloc, do you think 4:56 is to deep for 33’s ? I am very new to all this and want to do it right the first time.
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That is perfect in my opinion.
I have 4:56, 6 spd and 31.7" tires - that is a little too deep. Offroad i like it, as a daily i wish i had 7th gear and 1st wasn't as short.

Go with confidence, i'm sure most will agree that is a perfect spot.
I'm so excited of you, it will be a totally new Jeep with new positive experience
 
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eastbloc said:
That is perfect in my opinion.
I have 4:56, 6 spd and 31.7" tires - that is a little too deep. Offroad i like it, as a daily i wish i had 7th gear and 1st wasn't as short.

Go with confidence, i'm sure most will agree that is a perfect spot.
I'm so excited of you, it will be a totally new Jeep with new positive experience
Click to expand...
What do you think about the true trac rear and Aussie front ? Either way I would a new carrier
 
Leroy_TJ said:
What do you think about the true trac rear and Aussie front ? Either way I would a new carrier
Click to expand...

I think for what you describe the True-tracs front and rear will be your ticket. If you plan to add Chromoly shafts and at least spicer upgraded Axle joints, then the Aussie would be OK in the Front.

The True-tracs front and rear, or the Grip-pro's front and rear will be easier on the drive-train and steering IMO.
 
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Leroy_TJ said:
What do you think about the true trac rear and Aussie front ? Either way I would a new carrier
Click to expand...

I have TT in the rear, and Elocker in the front.
If i stayed locally all the time, i would take Ausie over Elocker, and spend saved $ on something else. I think me and and you have same sort of terrain, which is mud, sand and very slippery clay. And very often, either hits you with a surprise, so there is no time for flipping switches.

However, i do take road trips, and week later end up who knows where in mids of all sorts of weather. Locked front axle can be a counterproductive thing under certain conditions.

I think you are on the right track, just you know, make sure you bring proper tools for the job. I started with open difs, did all i could and then upgraded based on the needs:
I knew i needed TT, and that decision paid off.
I knew i didn't need lockers all around, and yet to regret that decision. Last time i had rear wheels in the air, was never.
I knew my front wheels were in the air, pretty much all the time, so i needed them locked... but still retain the ability to make the decision.

I definitely don't rock crawl 24/7 and have no desire to drive up Mount Everest, so screw 90% of build advises around this forum.
 
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You are c
eastbloc said:
I have TT in the rear, and Elocker in the front.
If i stayed locally all the time, i would take Ausie over Elocker, and spend saved $ on something else. I think me and and you have same sort of terrain, which is mud, sand and very slippery clay. And very often, either hits you with a surprise, so there is no time for flipping switches.

However, i do take road trips, and week later end up who knows where in mids of all sorts of weather. Locked front axle can be a counterproductive thing under certain conditions.

I think you are on the right track, just you know, make sure you bring proper tools for the job. I started with open difs, did all i could and then upgraded based on the needs:
I knew i needed TT, and that decision paid off.
I knew i didn't need lockers all around, and yet to regret that decision. Last time i had rear wheels in the air, was never.
I knew my front wheels were in the air, pretty much all the time, so i needed them locked... but still retain the ability to make the decision.

I definitely don't rock crawl 24/7 and have no desire to drive up Mount Everest, so screw 90% of build advises around this forum.
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You are spot on about the terrain. I plan on using my Jeep for road trips as well. I have a adventure trip planned for next year , corona virus screwed everything up for this year !
 
Cross-Threaded-06TJ said:
I think for what you describe the True-tracs front and rear will be your ticket. If you plan to add Chromoly shafts and at least spicer upgraded Axle joints, then the Aussie would be OK in the Front.

The True-tracs front and rear, or the Grip-pro's front and rear will be easier on the drive-train and steering IMO.
Click to expand...
All things considered , sounds like the true tracs would be the way to go. @eastbloc has a good point about the terrain we have down here in the south. The Aussie up front would help a lot in that area but for everyday use idk. I got time to research and make sure I get the best set up.
 
Midtenn said:
FWIW, I dropped my jeep off at the shop today to get some 4.56s installed with TrueTracs in the front and back. I am super confident it will do everything I need it to do.

It sucks to drop $2K like that but the stimulus made it easier to swallow.
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I hope I get one of those stimulus checks !!
 
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