Where did my coolant go?

eastbloc said:
While front dash and air unit is out, there will be plenty of space to insulate firewall from heat and noise
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9X452Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
$40 an hour, kind of pricey, not a complex job but time consuming. Especially for the 1st time while you figuring out how to approach everything. You sure you can't find a quiet corner in your apartment complex, outside of management eyes?

Dash is easy to take out, and put back on, especially if you don't have aftermarket wiring mess in there.
Air box will come out without complications, some bolts are pita to get to from inside engine bay if im not mistaken. This pita will bite back when trying to attach it back on. I remember cursing a lot inside the engine bay, but dont remember why, this must be it.
Taking air box apart to get to heater core may get time consuming, simply from figuring out which bolts come out and where to start separating it apart.

How do you feel about it?
Other than parts and refill of AC lines, this is not $ consuming job.
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With the weather changing and the sheer time-sink that this job is, I don't feel good about it at all.

I loathe that it's going to cost so damn much to do it, but I want it done right. This $700 it's going to cost was going to pay off a lot of credit cards before this damn heater core decided to shit its-self.

Honestly might just let it go at this point and fix at a later date.
 
CybrSlydr said:
With the weather changing and the sheer time-sink that this job is, I don't feel good about it at all.

I loathe that it's going to cost so damn much to do it, but I want it done right. This $700 it's going to cost was going to pay off a lot of credit cards before this damn heater core decided to shit its-self.

Honestly might just let it go at this point and fix at a later date.
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Is it a daily driver for you’re Wyoming winter? If not, you can just remove it from the loop and connect the 2 heater hoses and run it until you save up to do it. Well, you still could drive it during the winter, but I guess you’d need to bundle up.
 
MountaineerTom said:
Is it a daily driver for you’re Wyoming winter? If not, you can just remove it from the loop and connect the 2 heater hoses and run it until you save up to do it. Well, you still could drive it during the winter, but I guess you’d need to bundle up.
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Yeah, it's my DD.

Boss put in for my promotion in December and it was signed off, with HR now. So hopefully beginning of Dec I'll get that bump. I might just wait until tax refund to get it replaced. Just tape some paper towels over the vents until then to absorb any coolant that comes in.

As for bundling up, you're not wrong. Need some new wool socks for winter. Some new winter boots too.
 
Looking at the prices you quoted from that Backwards Garage place, you might be better off sucking up the $800 something quote for having it done at a shop when you consider the warranty that should come with it. It's a lot of cash but $40/hour to do it on your own if you haven't done it before can add up quick. Just a thought.
 
My biggest concern is that by putting this off, I won't be able to defrost/defog the windshield. Not a good thing to not be able to do in the winter.
 
qslim said:
Looking at the prices you quoted from that Backwards Garage place, you might be better off sucking up the $800 something quote for having it done at a shop when you consider the warranty that should come with it. It's a lot of cash but $40/hour to do it on your own if you haven't done it before can add up quick. Just a thought.
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Or I could pay what they quoted me for their guys to do it - who is an ASE Mechanic. $500 plus parts.

Comes with 24mos/24,000 mile warranty.

https://backwardsmechanics.com/we-fix-it/
 
Knowing the job, i am simply cringing at a thought of paying that much for it.
And knowing how i like to sit down and wonder off into world of imagination when i need to think about something, that 40/h shop rate will make me regret not paying $850 for it :D

How about getting one of this usb heating pads?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WXJM4C6/?tag=wranglerorg-20https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K23GZB9/?tag=wranglerorg-20It is $15, disconnect heater core, loop it, and use this pads to defrost windows. When time and weather permits, do it yourself.
 
qslim said:
Yeah, one of the 5 or 6 bolts that attaches the HVAC box to the firewall is PITA to reach once you actually find it. I was lobbing all sorts of colorful language around my garage.
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hahaha yes ! it is amazing how some experiences reside in memory,
it has been year and half since i did my heater core, could not remember why i was so angry but sure do remember anger associated with it 😅
 
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eastbloc said:
hahaha yes ! it is amazing how some experiences reside in memory,
it has been year and half since i did my heater core, could not remember why i was so angry but sure do remember anger associated with it 😅
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The last nut that held the heater box was shared with the black plastic cowl drain. Took me forever to figure it out, & when I did I was out of patience & could barely reach it with my lift standing on a step ladder. My wife was trying to help but I was so mad at that point :LOL:.
 
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CybrSlydr said:
Or I could pay what they quoted me for their guys to do it - who is an ASE Mechanic. $500 plus parts.

Comes with 24mos/24,000 mile warranty.

https://backwardsmechanics.com/we-fix-it/
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That really might be your best bet considering the warranty. You could save yourself a few bucks doing it yourself in their shop, but if the parts you use start to leak you’re right back in the same spot.

If you wanna drag your ass to SLC I’ll help you change it, I’m free most Sundays but you better get here early. I also offer zero warranties 🤪
 
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If you do it yourself get some zip lock bags and label your bolts and take pics. Like everyone says it's not hard just takes time and space.
 
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Bigger concern on putting it off too long is that it could let go on you and leave you stranded. If it's showing steaming signs that it's giving up, take those signs before it sends you a red-cluster warning by crapping out all over your passenger floor.
 
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FarFire70 said:
Bigger concern on putting it off too long is that it could let go on you and leave you stranded. If it's showing steaming signs that it's giving up, take those signs before it sends you a red-cluster warning by crapping out all over your passenger floor.
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I think the earliest I can get to it is beginning of December.
 
Jodh said:
If you do it yourself get some zip lock bags and label your bolts and take pics. Like everyone says it's not hard just takes time and space.
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I agree completely. I actually found it easier to do than I expected. It does take time and patience though, and a good place to do the work. If I had needed it for a daily driver, I probably would have been forced to have someone else do the work. The professional mechanic work and warranty might also take some worry off of you.
 
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You can also negotiate with the mechanics. On big jobs they might come down on the hourly rate or book time. When I was looking at options on mine I got the dealership to do it for 6hrs labor. Still more than I was willing to pay so I still did it myself.
 
Another thing to consider is you'll want to do the job in a warm garage if possible. The plastic on our TJ's is already old and brittle and the colder it is the more brittle it becomes. When I did mine in my unheated garage last winter I broke several tabs off of wiring harness connectors and plugs which I really hate. Some of them are so hard to see/reach it's hard not to miss a tab, pull too hard and break it off.

Any that were damaged I made sure to use a small zip tie or electrical tape when going back together to ensure it stays connected.
 
I scheduled with a shop to get the core replaced. Dropping it off on the 30th of November and should be ready next day.

Looks like it's going to be around $850. Quoted me $700 for labor plus the part.
 
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CybrSlydr said:
I scheduled with a shop to get the core replaced. Dropping it off on the 30th of November and should be ready next day.

Looks like it's going to be around $850. Quoted me $700 for labor plus the part.
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Sucks that's a lot of $$$ you weren't planning on spending, but at least you'll have a warranty to fall back on. Probably a good decision given the circumstances.
 
qslim said:
Sucks that's a lot of $$$ you weren't planning on spending, but at least you'll have a warranty to fall back on. Probably a good decision given the circumstances.
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The kicker was today.

It's hovering around freezing with precipitation transitioning between snow and rain all the way from Casper to Douglas.

I treated the interior glass with anti-fog stuff to try and keep the windows clear, but it's depositing a lot of coolant on the windshield - and it's blowing hot air even if the heater is turned off. Interior of the windshield was difficult to see out of with all the moisture on it.

It's gotta get fixed - I can't go all winter driving to and from Casper with it like this. If I still lived in Douglas and only a 7min drive from work, maybe. But not like this.
 
Make sure you're warranty will cover at least part of labor. Warranty on the part is if you have to pay 700 for labor again and since mopar part is unavailable who knows what quality is going in.
 
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