Which one of these Currie Currectlyncs is the one I need?
- Thread starter 02TJRE5.5
- Start date
06TJ35's
TJ Addict
This is the bracket you have. To remove the bracket you would have to remove the 3 bolts I’ve shown. The first picture after you remove the bracket is where the trac bar would mount.
For sure! I see the stock mount with bolt in it now.Nopelook right behind it, that’s the stock mount.
06TJ35's
TJ Addict
. . . you can just run it as as with the Currie steering and forget it
X2.
You may want to run the track bar you already have with your new Currie steering before changing to a new track bar. While RE isn't many people's first choice for track bars and lifts, RE's "extreme duty" track bar (the one you already have) isn't completely terrible. You might want to figure out your actual track bar angle with the new steering, how much bump steer you really have, and your various available options to address the angle and bump steer before you buy a new track bar and pitman arim.
One thing I seldom see mentioned is the availability of pitman arms with a drop in between stock and the dropped pitman arms supplied by RE. For me, a few minutes digging around the parts bins at my local jeep suspension shop paid off with a used but not abused pitman arm with the correct splines and length and a drop midway between the the stock TJ arm and the RE dropped pitman arm. [It might have been a 1" or 2" drop vs. the 4" drop of the RE dropped pitman arm but unfortunately I didn't record the measurements.] It was perfect for dialing out any remaining bump steer with the RE 5.5 lift, Currie Correctlync steering, and the RE #1610 "Extreme Duty" trackbar with RE1611 bracket that I already had.
It would save you from having to grind off the welds to remove your #1610 bracket.
mostly just out of curiosity since I already have a Currie track bar, but assuming one has the correct pitman arm to make the drag link and track bar parallel...is there anything wrong with the RE track bar drop bracket setup? Seems like the way the mount is moved forward could actually help with diff cover clearance if not eliminate that issue altogether.
From a angles and clearance standpoint there really isn’t a downside - from a mechanical standpoint I would be more concerned on putting extra leverage on both steering and the track bar mount. There is a reason Dave has his own Trackbar mount when he does front suspension - and a lot of it comes down to either replacing damage of the stock cast or the need to push the axle forward an 1” - something that @jjvw solved with a bender and a grinder.
If I was to go the RE bracket route (I have a Currie bar) I would switch to RC forged bar and slap some moog joints in it - exactly what Dave does
I run the RE 1610/1611 "extreme duty" track bar/bracket with Currie Correctlync steering, both installed by the previous owner.
Other than changing out the pitman arm to one with "in between" drop as described above, and replacing the axle side bushing due to wear after who-knows-how-many-years, it has never given me any problem and nothing rubs against the "Solid" differential cover, which was also installed by the previous owner. I have no reason to change my existing track bar unless and until it bends, breaks, wears out, or causes a problem.
Are the Currie, Savvy and [insert the name of your favorite steering parts manufacturer] track bars "better" than the RE "extreme duty" track bar? Could be, and in many ways probably are, but that type of discussion tends to turn into fan boi product bashing of the "wrong" brand and knee jerk cheerleading for the "right" brand, so I avoid it. Is is worth changing an existing, properly functioning track bar to one of the "better" brands just for the sake of a brand/design change? Probably not.
Sometimes I wonder if the RE 1610/1611 "extreme duty" track bar system would get better evaluations than it does if it were painted a color other than RE Industrial Grey.
YMMV
I’ve seen a RE bar snapped in half
If it bends or breaks I will replace it. Either with the same thing or something "better." Until then - so far, so good.
BTW, I think that is a photo of the RE 1600 track bar rather than the RE 1610. The frame side connection is different and the 1600 uses the factory track bar mount. I don't know about differences in the tubing, if any.
Idk man, I’d take some mil spec double bead run flats and an industrial electric swap any dayIf it bends or breaks I will replace it. Either with the same thing or something "better." Until then - so far, so good.
BTW, I've seen flat tires and blown 4.0 gasoline engines. Doesn't make me want to replace them with solid rubber or a battery powered 4WD.
If/when you replace it I would strongly recommend the RC forged bar with swapped moog joints.If it bends or breaks I will replace it. Either with the same thing or something "better." Until then - so far, so good.
BTW, I've seen flat tires and blown 4.0 gasoline engines. Doesn't make me want to replace them with solid rubber or a battery powered 4WD.