Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Who knows about washing machines?

B1Toad

B1Toad

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Our GE front loader fills too slow on hot only. It fills fine on cold. The inlet screens on the water valve are clean, the pressure at the supply is strong and the hoses I just replaced with new, high flow hoses and there are no kinks. No change. When using hot only it fills so slow that it times out and stops the cycle and displays a fault code that it is filling too slow.

I know enough about solenoid valves that they are either full on or full off so what could it be? Can debris build up in the valve? Or in the fill line after the valve? We do have a lot of calcium but I figured if there was scale buildup it would also cause the valve to leak from not closing all the way. Maybe there is a second screen inside the valve?

Just trying to get some ideas before I pull it out of it's (tight) spot and take it apart.
 
This isn’t any help with your current situation, but here’s what I’ve learned about washing machines: buy a Speed Queen.

I can’t tell you how many washers I bought to learn this. But I’ve only bought one Speed Queen.

Have you confirmed you’ve got good water pressure on the hot tap?
 
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5TTTj said:
Remove the hoses from the back of the machine and flow them into a bucket. If seen the hose swell closed form the inside while the outside looks fine.
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Interesting. I've seen rubber fuel line do that. What would cause a water hose to swell?
 
B1Toad said:
Our GE front loader fills too slow on hot only. It fills fine on cold. The inlet screens on the water valve are clean, the pressure at the supply is strong and the hoses I just replaced with new, high flow hoses and there are no kinks. No change. When using hot only it fills so slow that it times out and stops the cycle and displays a fault code that it is filling too slow.

I know enough about solenoid valves that they are either full on or full off so what could it be? Can debris build up in the valve? Or in the fill line after the valve? We do have a lot of calcium but I figured if there was scale buildup it would also cause the valve to leak from not closing all the way. Maybe there is a second screen inside the valve?

Just trying to get some ideas before I pull it out of it's (tight) spot and take it apart.
Click to expand...

Switch the hoses hot to colt and see if the problem follows to the cold side. This should tell you if it’s inside or outside the machine.
 
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NskLJ said:
Switch the hoses hot to colt and see if the problem follows to the cold side.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how that will work out. I see potential for new problems. :sneaky:

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Or are you saying he should pull an Elvis and just shoot it? I'm down with that one. :cool:
 
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BlueC said:
I'm not sure how that will work out. I see potential for new problems. :sneaky:

View attachment 606788

Or are you saying he should pull an Elvis and just shoot it? I'm down with that one. :cool:
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Modern appliances seem to be pretty much disposable now so it's a valid solution.

Our $3k GE refrigerator had a 4 years warranty and completely died at 4.5 years.:mad:
 
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B1Toad said:
Our GE front loader fills too slow on hot only. It fills fine on cold. The inlet screens on the water valve are clean, the pressure at the supply is strong and the hoses I just replaced with new, high flow hoses and there are no kinks. No change. When using hot only it fills so slow that it times out and stops the cycle and displays a fault code that it is filling too slow.

I know enough about solenoid valves that they are either full on or full off so what could it be? Can debris build up in the valve? Or in the fill line after the valve? We do have a lot of calcium but I figured if there was scale buildup it would also cause the valve to leak from not closing all the way. Maybe there is a second screen inside the valve?

Just trying to get some ideas before I pull it out of it's (tight) spot and take it apart.
Click to expand...

If you can get to the hoses , remove the hot water hose from the supply valve , drain the water out , elevate the end of the hose and fill it with vinegar.
You may be able to use CLR also. this would dissolve the mineral build up in the line and solenoid valve. Don't you love how much a smart washing machine is helping you right now .
 
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ColoJeep said:
Don't you love how much a smart washing machine is helping you right now .
Click to expand...

These "high efficiency" and "smart" machines are just wonderful. :rolleyes: When I worked at Lowes, I think the stat was an approximate 20% rate of return/repair for the average washer, with front load being higher.

Side story, an uncle of mine is a brick mason. He figured out that he can't have one of those machines. Apparently, the dust he brings home will kill one of those machines in under a year. He went through 3 washers before he figured it out and just bought a no-frills, base model machine that can handle the load. My no-frills, mechanical machine is 15+ now and rolling on. Hopefully it holds up because I don't want to buy a new machine.
 
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I only know that if I don't take mine out to dinner once in awhile, I end up with all of my dirty clothes in the hamper and nothing in the dresser or closet.
:ROFLMAO:

On a side note, the LG machines that we bought seem to work fine, but the dryer has a mind of its' own and it apparently doesn't like doing its' job very much.
Never in my life have I had to "re-dry" clothes so often.

I finally figured that the vent line might be obstructed with lint build-up, so I disconnected it and blasted the leaf blower through the line to clear it out.
You could have made a winter blanket with all of the lint that landed out in the driveway.
 
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BlueC said:
These "high efficiency" and "smart" machines are just wonderful. :rolleyes: When I worked at Lowes, I think the stat was an approximate 20% rate of return/repair for the average washer, with front load being higher.

Side story, an uncle of mine is a brick mason. He figured out that he can't have one of those machines. Apparently, the dust he brings home will kill one of those machines in under a year. He went through 3 washers before he figured it out and just bought a no-frills, base model machine that can handle the load. My no-frills, mechanical machine is 15+ now and rolling on. Hopefully it holds up because I don't want to buy a new machine.
Click to expand...

Our first washer was a 1971 Kenmore we bought for $25.00 in 1987. It was so worn out that the ball and socket links that the tub hangs off of were holding on by less than .015". I read up on all the modern laundry nightmare and decided to spend a lot more and buy basic mechanical Speed Queen stuff in 2014.
So far so good ,I did have to replace a thermal fuse and terminal strip on the electric dryer , but nothing on the washer. It is damn near impossible to buy a mechanical timer machine. but our 44 year old Kenmore timer was still operating fine after every thing was totally worn out.
 
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I'm no expert on washing machines. Though my wife works for a home builder and deals with appliances to some degree. We had a front loading washer and dryer at our previous house (6 years ago) and it was a giant piece of garbage. Our problem was that things (socks, underwear) would get sucked into the drain. There wasn't very easy access to the drain. Had to take a screwdriver to get to it. So about once a month or so, had to unclog the drain. The main symptom would be that you'd go to check on your load and it would be 'done' yet still soaking wet.

My wife mentioned that there's essentially nothing good about the front loading machines. At our current house, we went back to a top loader and haven't had a single problem.

We're about to move again, same story, sticking with a top loading machine.
 
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Well I finally had time to work on this today, I removed the valves and took them out to the shop, connected them to my shop sink and powered each one up. The cold blasted out fine but the hot just dribbled out and the valve did not snap open firmly like the cold one did. I ended up buying a replacement locally which was actually cheaper and a week quicker than any of the online places I looked.

It may have been debris in the valve but in order to get to it with vinegar I would have had to power it on overnight while it soaked, there is no way to disassemble the valve part, you can only pry the solenoid coil off. Rather than mess with it it was easier to just replace it. When I tried to cut it open with the band saw later to have a look inside I couldn't really see anything, but the rubber parts were of the age where when you touch them rubber comes off on your hands so it's sealing days were numbered anyway.
 
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B1Toad said:
Well I finally had time to work on this today, I removed the valves and took them out to the shop, connected them to my shop sink and powered each one up. The cold blasted out fine but the hot just dribbled out and the valve did not snap open firmly like the cold one did. I ended up buying a replacement locally which was actually cheaper and a week quicker than any of the online places I looked.

It may have been debris in the valve but in order to get to it with vinegar I would have had to power it on overnight while it soaked, there is no way to disassemble the valve part, you can only pry the solenoid coil off. Rather than mess with it it was easier to just replace it. When I tried to cut it open with the band saw later to have a look inside I couldn't really see anything, but the rubber parts were of the age where when you touch them rubber comes off on your hands so it's sealing days were numbered anyway.
Click to expand...

That wonderful Chinese rubber . ;)
 
Didn't know where else to throw this post, but here seems as good a place as any. So, my 30-year-old Whirlpool washing machine had its first major failure. It stopped working Thanksgiving morning. Neither the basket (tub) nor the agitator was working, and there was this God-awful ratcheting sound emanating from deep within the bowels of the machine. I suspected the coupling between the motor and transmission had failed, so I tore it apart. Nope, the coupling is fine. So, I removed the drive block. It's deteriorated somewhat, but not enough to cause what is happening. Clutch must be bad, then. No, clutch and basket-drive both check out okay. I decided to clean up the 30 years of grime and Squatch hair whilst pondering what the hell could be wrong. While cleaning up the transmission, I found that the transmission shaft that is driven by the coupling has worn so badly that the flat "sides" that are meant to be engaged by the coupling are no longer there, and all that remains of the shaft's original shape is a couple of high spots that have been hogging out the coupling's mounting hole. As they won't just sell me that shaft, I had to order a new transmission for it. I found an OEM one for $213 delivered to my door. The local shop wanted $300+ for the same part. He also thought I was crazy to invest that kind of money into a 30-year-old machine. But hey, I'd rather do that than buy an expensive new problem! ;)
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Squatch said:
Didn't know where else to throw this post, but here seems as good a place as any. So, my 30-year-old Whirlpool washing machine had its first major failure. It stopped working Thanksgiving morning. Neither the basket (tub) nor the agitator was working, and there was this God-awful ratcheting sound emanating from deep within the bowels of the machine. I suspected the coupling between the motor and transmission had failed, so I tore it apart. Nope, the coupling is fine. So, I removed the drive block. It's deteriorated somewhat, but not enough to cause what is happening. Clutch must be bad, then. No, clutch and basket-drive both check out okay. I decided to clean up the 30 years of grime and Squatch hair whilst pondering what the hell could be wrong. While cleaning up the transmission, I found that the transmission shaft that is driven by the coupling has worn so badly that the flat "sides" that are meant to be engaged by the coupling are no longer there, and all that remains of the shaft's original shape is a couple of high spots that have been hogging out the coupling's mounting hole. As they won't just sell me that shaft, I had to order a new transmission for it. I found an OEM one for $213 delivered to my door. The local shop wanted $300+ for the same part. He also thought I was crazy to invest that kind of money into a 30-year-old machine. But hey, I'd rather do that than buy an expensive new problem! ;)
View attachment 657950View attachment 657949View attachment 657948
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Oh HELL YES! Don't buy any of the new enshittificated stuff.
 
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