Why do I need a locker? I thought I had four-wheel drive!

[Xposure]

There is conflicting opinions here, a lot of people will tell you to get a rear locker cause that’s more predictable and will push you through things.

however alot of people will tell you to get a front because those are the wheels that come in Contact with the Obstical first and often loose traction

for you with a rear lsd. I would probably get a front locker first, I think that would give you the most noticeable gains.

That was my thoughts, but I dont really have enough experience to know. I was thinking of ditching the lsd but recently learned about using the brakes to create resistance to help the lsd....wish I knew that in the past lol!

Now I'm thinking I may get a cable Ox locker for front and modify the plates in the 8.8 to strengthen them.....or I see used Truetrac lsd's around here for $200....thought I may grab one for the 8.8 since they are supposed to work a lot better than the OEM lsd.

 

[billiebob]

I only recall that on dry pavement in 4wdL in was not able to turn without the shredding of rubber. I always thought of it as being locked down tight, this I thought I knew from moving from 4h to 4l when stuck in mud and how it lurched out. I can't find a history of lockers from that era.

No, that is common to all part time 4WDs. The transfer case is locked, rather there is no differential. And yes, the tires chirp turning, the Jeep jumps because the front axle when turning travels further than the rear axle.

But add selectable lockers and you really will experience a resistance to turn. 10 fold beyond just part time 4WD.

 

[billiebob]

LSD, the AWD standard. Our Subaru 3.6R was incredible. 0-80mph in 2 blocks in snow so deep the undercarriage was dragging. Detroit Lockers as old as drag racing were the muscle car standard, as soon as a tire spun, it locked mechanically, automatically and you left the stop light fastest. Selectable lockers work from idle. Set the front tire against a rock, select front and rear axles locked, everything is locked. Let out the clutch, ALL the torque will go to that tire and you will climb it with zero drama.

Every product is designed to do something right. Selectable lockers are the zero compromize choice for rock crawling or... in my case treading lightly. Nothing else will let you move slowly with minimal loss of traction and zero skill.

Brake differential offers options too but it requires skill and is not tread lightly.

With selectable lockers as the Rubicon has...... since all the torque can go to any one tire, the Rubicon comes with D44s front and rear. Before 2003 almost every 4x4 had a bigger, ie Dana 60 rear axle, and Dana 44 front axle because in 4WD the torque thru the "locked" transfer case was split 50/50. In 2WD all the torque went to the Dana 60. In 4WD only half the torque went to the Dana 44. The Rubicon lockers changed that. All the torque could go to any one tire. So vehicles with factory lockers tend to come with identical front and rear axles, which is why front axle lockers create a weakness when the vehicle comes with Dana 30/Dana 35 or Dana 30/Dana 44 axles.

Not a deadly weakness if you understand the reality. A Rubicon all locked up will be considerably stronger than a Sport with added lockers. Not that a locked up Sport is a bad choice, just realize the Sport Dana 30 is not as strong as the Dana 44.

 

[AidenC]

Should I get lokka lunchbox lockers for my daily driver or would they be a pain in turns and stuff?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Should I get lokka lunchbox lockers for my daily driver or would they be a pain in turns and stuff?

They're fine in the front when you're in 2wd on the street but don't put a lunchbox locker in the rear where they are very poorly behaved. And find out what rear axle you have as if it's the standard Dana 35 it's not strong enough for a locker. The optional factory-installed Dana 44 rear axle is strong enough for a locker.

If your rear axle's differential cover is oval-shaped and has a black plastic snap-in lubricant hole fill plug it's a Dana 35. If it's more apple-shaped and has a threaded steel plug in its lube fill hole it's the stronger/more desirable Dana 44.

By the way, your '98 Jeep is nicely configured with its 4.0 engine and 3-speed 32RH automatic transmission. That's a very desirable transmission, I actually replaced my '97 TJ's 5-speed manual transmission with the same transmission you have. It's AWESOME for doing really tough trails plus it gives 2-3X more low-end torque due to its torque converter. Don't let anyone say your automatic is anything but a solid offroad performer.

Dana 35

Dana 44