She is the best. I know what you mean about shih tzu's
Took the afternoon off and went for a bike ride with my daughter. Got the first 75 miles on the new bike.
View attachment 420423
Up the Upper Tannum Rd. Had to turn around due to snow still on the road.
View attachment 420424
View attachment 420426
She has a Honda CB500X
View attachment 420427
View attachment 420428
That CB500X is a great bike. I have a buddy who has converted a few of them into full blown adventure bikes.
How do you like the Harley?
Good to see her properly geared up.Here's the snow patch where she dumped her bile. No damage other than pride.
View attachment 420469
I should add that the road up ahead was worse and a lot more snow. It was warm enough that it was slush more than anything so it wasn't easy to ride thru.
I'm putting anti-sieze on the shaft of the jj's. Steel and aluminum don't mix well.
The aluminum links I got from Wide Open Design tell you to use anti-sieze or it voids the warranty.
Everything I'm putting together that doesn't need loctite is getting anti-sieze.
Edit: I've had heims seize in my trackbar before too which is part of the reason why I'm using anti-seize on everything. Don't want to have to deal with that stuff again. Even the body mount bolts will get coated so they don't seize up.
Agree on the JJ's threaded shafts needing anti-seize going into aluminum control arms. I had the joy of that messy job recently with my new arms.
I misread your post and thought you were talking about the bolts through the JJ ball that mounts it to the frame/axle. I recently removed mine that had seized the bolt in the sleeve in the rubber joint (equivalent to the JJ ball). Given I'm in the rust belt, I anti-seize pretty much anything near the undercarriage. I plan to anti-seize my thru-ball bolts on both the threads but also on the shafts that goes through the ball so that they don't seize together in the future. I'm not sure if this is a regular issue but I've been burned recently...
Was originally wondering your anti-seize approach on the bolts.
I'd gotten ahead of myself when I put the rear axle under the Jeep. I hadn't installed the brake lines or line locks. While not impossible to reach under the Jeep it's just more FUN . But I contorted my body and got them installed.......
View attachment 417379
View attachment 417380
Then I swapped out the stock diff cover and installed the Jeep diff cover.
View attachment 417377
View attachment 417378
Starting to look like a Jeep again. Tomorrow I'll work on the rear axle more. Install the AR and air springs and then the shocks. May even work on running the air lines for them.
Played with my label printer yesterday while I was watching my fur buddy.
I've also have Black letters on clear tape but since the numbers on the gauges were White I thought I'd try this.
View attachment 420355
View attachment 420356
I'd know just looking at the gauges which one was which but if someone else was driving? We'll see how they hold up after a few months.
Good to see her properly geared up.
she looks thrilled...
How do you guys handle the change in necessary torque caused by anti seize? How do you know when it's tight enough?
I had problems breaking bolts for my CAs trying to get them to torque spec w/ anti seize applied
Are line locks so you can do front digs? What do they do, just lock the currently applied hydraulic pressure at the flip of a switch?
Little details like this will make it really look clean at the end
I can't remember what size they were honestly, UCA frame side bolts. I ended up just forgoing the anti seize on the second set lol. Not alot of rust out here luckilyUsing the Anti-Seize is similar to using the ARP fastener lube. Most times there is a wet torque spec & a dry torque spec on critical parts.
What bolts were you breaking? I'll see if I can find the stuff for doing a wet torque.
Cool!!Yes They are for front digs to help the Jeep turn sharper. Lock the inner brake by stepping on the brake pedal and then hit a switch on the console. Once I'm done hit the switch and it unlocks it.
Thanks. After looking at the picture I can see that I got the MAIN label off a little so I'll make a new one and see if I can get it right.
Let me just add that I think the verbage wet/dry torque spec might be just what I needed to figure it out via the googles next time...
It varies slightly depending on what the wet component is, but is generally accepted as 10-15% between wet & dry torque values.