Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
OP
Parts from ORO arrived.
Let's see if I can get this installed and not break a bushing this time.
Let's see if I can get this installed and not break a bushing this time.
OP
I didn't break anything today. It was a PITA to get installed. A lot harder than I remember it was but it's done.
I'd bought Currie (RockJock) links for the Anti-Rock so I decided to use them.
Drivers side. No clearance issues here.
Passenger side is a different story. But I said I had a hand
️ width clearance.
Shouldn't be a problem but I'll throw the tires back on just to make sure.
And I have the new design inner bar that is drilled so you can grease it. This is a nice new feature.
It's recommended that you grease it every 5-6K miles or every oil change.
I'd bought Currie (RockJock) links for the Anti-Rock so I decided to use them.
Drivers side. No clearance issues here.
Passenger side is a different story. But I said I had a hand
️ width clearance. Shouldn't be a problem but I'll throw the tires back on just to make sure.
And I have the new design inner bar that is drilled so you can grease it. This is a nice new feature.
It's recommended that you grease it every 5-6K miles or every oil change.
OP
I should add that I'm using the TeraFlex swaybar brackets. They are designed for the Dana 30/44 from a TJ/LJ so I had to modify them to work on my HP44. They weld onto the inner C. So they offer some good clearance around the spring or in my case air springs.
OP
Yep it clears 
no problem. I'm glad I'm able to use the SwayLoc instead of the Anti-Rock. Even though it is a 90% trail rig if I have a choice I'll take the SwayLoc.
Now to check out the front bumper and make sure it clears the SwayLoc.
no problem. I'm glad I'm able to use the SwayLoc instead of the Anti-Rock. Even though it is a 90% trail rig if I have a choice I'll take the SwayLoc. Now to check out the front bumper and make sure it clears the SwayLoc.
OP
I swapped out the RJ links for the ORO links that come with the SwayLoc.
It put the arm lower and more parallel with the frame. Which as I remember it this is how it should be.
This is how much shorter the links are. I can cut the RJ links shorter which I still might do.
The tire still clears the SwayLoc arm which is the main concern.
But now the other issue is the Motobilt bumper is going to need some trimming to work. I can't put it all the way on because the jack stands are in the way.
It put the arm lower and more parallel with the frame. Which as I remember it this is how it should be.
This is how much shorter the links are. I can cut the RJ links shorter which I still might do.
The tire still clears the SwayLoc arm which is the main concern.
But now the other issue is the Motobilt bumper is going to need some trimming to work. I can't put it all the way on because the jack stands are in the way.
those MT"s look awesome
OP
those MT"s look awesome
They are a cool looking tire. And from what I've seen they seem to perform well also.
Agree with the earlier answers that critical parts will have a wet/dry torque. Most of your suspension, etc parts that you're going to use it on a 10-20% reduction is what I've found to be the consensus.
I will admit that until (very) recently I was just going full spec on most suspension parts, such as the CAs, TBs, etc, even with anti-seize. Glad you're learning the right way to do it (reduce to a wet spec or drop by %).
You're giving me too much credit, I'm asking these questions after I broke thingsGlad you're learning the right way to do it (reduce to a wet spec or drop by %).
OP
You're giving me too much credit, I'm asking these questions after I broke things
It is how some of us learn... I won't say me too but? Lol
OP
I tried the shortest ORO links on the SwayLoc but I'm almost to the point where it could flip the other direction.
So I'll have to go back to the 7" links instead.
I feel with it this close a hard bump could make it flip.
So I'll have to go back to the 7" links instead.
I feel with it this close a hard bump could make it flip.
OP
I've also got to put longer links on the height sensors as they are going to invert like they are now.
OP
Easy enough to fix these issues. I cut the RJ links down to there shortest length and installed them.
And replaced the links on the height sensors to longer ones.
And replaced the links on the height sensors to longer ones.
OP
I've still got to flex the rear axle and see if I need to replace the height sensors links there also.
Good, finish gluing that thing back together so you can start testing it.
This is my daughter’s Zx6r. She graduated from an CBR250 to it last year. I still think it’s a lot of bike for her (she’s a little thing like her mom), but she loves it.
Edit: she’s been doing all the maintenance on it herself and her boyfriend has been helping her do the mods.
Last edited:
OP
I'm working on it....
I know how I rode on a sport bike so it scares the crap out of me to think of her on one.
That is a beautiful bike.
I know myself. Scares me too, as she is definitely my child.
OP
A little frustrated and just not all together happy about this.......
I messed with the exhaust yesterday and tried everything I possibly could to make it work and almost have it but not completely. When I flex the suspension I've still got 1/2"-1" of up travel left when the driveshaft is hitting the exhaust. When I'd made that Y-pipe I'd already cut and flattened the area where the driveshaft is hitting. So I really don't have much if any wiggle room there. So after thinking about it all night and trying to find other options I've decided that I will remove the shortie headers and go back to the block hugger headers.
This means that I'll need to make a new Y-pipe and then have it & the headers ceramic coated but I still have a long list of other things that I need to accomplish. I'd really wanted to use those shorty headers but with the midarm there just isn't any good way to make it work.
I could limit my up travel but that would then defeat all the work that I'd tried to accomplish up til now.
I messed with the exhaust yesterday and tried everything I possibly could to make it work and almost have it but not completely. When I flex the suspension I've still got 1/2"-1" of up travel left when the driveshaft is hitting the exhaust. When I'd made that Y-pipe I'd already cut and flattened the area where the driveshaft is hitting. So I really don't have much if any wiggle room there. So after thinking about it all night and trying to find other options I've decided that I will remove the shortie headers and go back to the block hugger headers.
This means that I'll need to make a new Y-pipe and then have it & the headers ceramic coated but I still have a long list of other things that I need to accomplish. I'd really wanted to use those shorty headers but with the midarm there just isn't any good way to make it work.
I could limit my up travel but that would then defeat all the work that I'd tried to accomplish up til now.