Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

FarFire70 said:
I recently setup a multi-grinder holder in my garage with multiple HF (cheap) grinders preset with various grinding implements (wire wheel, flap disc, grinding disc, etc.).

I then realized I also had been building up a similar collection of preset bottles on the tool cart shelf - preset bottles with carpet cleaner, Distilled H2O, soapy water, Simple Green....

No real add here, just an observation I made in my garage and you triggered me on your soapy water comment.

Wish you luck finding the leaks!
Click to expand...

I've got a few bottles but am not that organized. I've got some tool racks from TMR for the grinders and air tools but still haven't gotten them hung.

I hope I can find the leaks easily too. I'm sure it's something simple.
 
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MichaelGH said:
When I talked to him, about that very thing, he told me there is no workaround at this time, and if I wanted it to not be illuminated that I needed to go inside my cluster and disable the airbag light.
Click to expand...

Bummer but I kind of figured as much.
And it's not something simple like pulling a bulb either. You've got to find that one LED and pull it from the circuit board.
 
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Chris replied already & as already said confirmed that the issue is the CCD vs PCI..... And that there isn't any easy fix other than to take the dash apart and cover the offending light. While that's somewhat of an easy fix it isn't what I consider really a fix. More of a band-aid.
But since I don't have an air bag on the drivers side and the GPS partly blocks the passenger side I'll pull the air bag module & take the dash apart and cover the air bag light.
 
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Took the day off. Didn't sleep well for the last few nights and it caught up with me.

I need to pull this steering clamp off my old tie-rod and see what size it is also.

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Wildman said:
Chris replied already & as already said confirmed that the issue is the CCD vs PCI..... And that there isn't any easy fix other than to take the dash apart and cover the offending light. While that's somewhat of an easy fix it isn't what I consider really a fix. More of a band-aid.
But since I don't have an air bag on the drivers side and the GPS partly blocks the passenger side I'll pull the air bag module & take the dash apart and cover the air bag light.
Click to expand...

What about an airbag module from 01-02? Those are PCI models and they didn’t eliminate the airbag module under the dash until 03.
 
Jamison C said:
What about an airbag module from 01-02? Those are PCI models and they didn’t eliminate the airbag module under the dash until 03.
Click to expand...

If the plug was the same then yes it might work. But I doubt it's the same. And honestly I'm not wanting the air bag system to work I was just wanting the air bag light to be off.
So in that case it seems like the easiest thing to do is cover the light or if I can remove it. I'm going to guess just covering it is going to be the ticket.
 
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I pulled the steering clamp off my old steering and verified it was 1.5" also. Unfortunately the one that @mudmaster has isn't the correct size.

So I put the old clamp in the bead blast cabinet and cleaned it up.
Then I tapped the screw holes to clean up the threads.

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Then ran a die down each of the cap screws threads.

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Put the cap screws in the clamp just to verify they're clean.

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I'll repaint the clamp of course.

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But now I've got 4 clamps to choose from.

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#1) TMR
#2) Double shear
#3) Clamp I'd have to weld a bolt to
#4) Clamp with a bolt on it already

I'd prefer to use the TMR clamp but it's going to rub.
So I'll most likely use #2 since it's double shear. I never had issues with it sliding on the old tie-rod. I don't know if being aluminum makes any difference.

20241021_190022.jpg
 
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Wildman said:
I pulled the steering clamp off my old steering and verified it was 1.5" also. Unfortunately the one that @mudmaster has isn't the correct size.

So I put the old clamp in the bead blast cabinet and cleaned it up.
Then I tapped the screw holes to clean up the threads.

View attachment 567126

Then ran a die down each of the cap screws threads.

View attachment 567127

Put the cap screws in the clamp just to verify they're clean.

View attachment 567128

View attachment 567129

View attachment 567130

I'll repaint the clamp of course.

View attachment 567131

But now I've got 4 clamps to choose from.

View attachment 567132

View attachment 567134

#1) TMR
#2) Double shear
#3) Clamp I'd have to weld a bolt to
#4) Clamp with a bolt on it already

I'd prefer to use the TMR clamp but it's going to rub.
So I'll most likely use #2 since it's double shear. I never had issues with it sliding on the old tie-rod. I don't know if being aluminum makes any difference.

View attachment 567135
Click to expand...

I've been pimping the Craftsman rethread kit for a few year (now not available - but other rethread kits are available). Not sure if you have one but I was very glad to be turned onto a rethread kit vs always going to the tap to clean up threads.

The rethread kit has the benefit of not having the aggressive cutting teeth that can damage existing thread. I used it extensively when the front end was apart to clean up OEM bolts and the threads they were going back into in the tub, etc (~10 years of age went away quick).

If a thread is really galled or needing work, I get using a tap for sure. Just sharing a new tool for you to spend money on ;), if you weren't familiar with it. (I wasn't familiar and was glad to get turned onto rethreading - so trying to pay it forward whenever I can).
 
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FarFire70 said:
I've been pimping the Craftsman rethread kit for a few year (now not available - but other rethread kits are available). Not sure if you have one but I was very glad to be turned onto a rethread kit vs always going to the tap to clean up threads.

The rethread kit has the benefit of not having the aggressive cutting teeth that can damage existing thread. I used it extensively when the front end was apart to clean up OEM bolts and the threads they were going back into in the tub, etc (~10 years of age went away quick).

If a thread is really galled or needing work, I get using a tap for sure. Just sharing a new tool for you to spend money on ;), if you weren't familiar with it. (I wasn't familiar and was glad to get turned onto rethreading - so trying to pay it forward whenever I can).
Click to expand...

I've got a few rethread tools for bolts but none for chasing treaded holes with.
 
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Wildman said:
I've got a few rethread tools for bolts but none for chasing treaded holes with.
Click to expand...

I have this kit from Craftsman and live by it. I did have to add a few metrics but it's a great kit (not my eBay listing).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3158482991...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

1729565822192.png


But I'm sure there are many other kits around.

It's crazy how much grit you can remove off any bolt you take off that's been in place for a few years. I tend to chase a lot of bolts through the dyes to clean off grit.

Again - been turned onto it so a proponent. Not trying to drive you or anyone else to it. Just wasn't aware of this tool kit before I knew - so trying to teach anyone seeming this thread.

——

Example where I felt it was great was cleaning out the threads in the tub for the front fender bolts that attach the fender to the tub. Ran the tool through and they went from tight to butter.

If I crossed any with a tap... I don't want to think of the pain to fix right.

I also want to be clear that I do clear threads with tap/dye when needed. This kit is just my first step.
 
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FarFire70 said:
I have this kit from Craftsman and live by it. I did have to add a few metrics but it's a great kit (not my eBay listing).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3158482991...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

View attachment 567146

But I'm sure there are many other kits around.

It's crazy how much grit you can remove off any bolt you take off that's been in place for a few years. I tend to chase a lot of bolts through the dyes to clean off grit.

Again - been turned onto it so a proponent. Not trying to drive you or anyone else to it. Just wasn't aware of this tool kit before I knew - so trying to teach anyone seeming this thread.

——

Example where I felt it was great was cleaning out the threads in the tub for the front fender bolts that attach the fender to the tub. Ran the tool through and they went from tight to butter.

If I crossed any with a tap... I don't want to think of the pain to fix right.

I also want to be clear that I do clear threads with tap/dye when needed. This kit is just my first step.
Click to expand...

Have that identical kit but the case says Matco... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: I smell a tool conspiracy!!!
 
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Back to the steering clamps, asking those who are smarter than me...

Does the size of the clamp make a difference? I'd guess the longer one has more clamping force since it covers more area? So in that case it'd make more sense to use the larger clamp?
What says everyone else?

As I said I never had the smaller clamp move on me.

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Wildman said:
Does the size of the clamp make a difference? I'd guess the longer one has more clamping force since it covers more area? So in that case it'd make more sense to use the larger clamp?
What says everyone else?
Click to expand...

You are correct in that the longer clamp will have more clamping force and resistance to movement simply because of more surface area.
Whether or not you need it, is the next question. If the shorter one doesn’t move on you, and it is an easier install, then use the shorter one. If the longer one is just as easy to install, I’d go for the more robust piece.
 
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MichaelGH said:
You are correct in that the longer clamp will have more clamping force and resistance to movement simply because of more surface area.
Whether or not you need it, is the next question. If the shorter one doesn’t move on you, and it is an easier install, then use the shorter one. If the longer one is just as easy to install, I’d go for the more robust piece.
Click to expand...

Since I already know the TMR clamp is going to rub I'm tempted not to use it even though it's the one I'd really like to use.

Then as far as the shorter vs the longer since I've already got the shorter one built I'm thinking I'll use it and then if the shorter one does happen to slide on me I'll just add tabs to the longer clamp and use it.
Or I can then buy the knurled clamp which should help with not sliding even more?
 
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