Will a 3 inch lift work for 33 inch tires?

[THE DOC]

No to longer pitman yes to adjustable trackbar. Do you have a SYE and DC rear DS? If not you may need to drop your skid a bit to get your DS proper get rid of the vibes. You should just go ahead and do it right with the SYE and DC driveshaft now cause you will do it later.

I have the stock driveshaft. My thought was try new u joints for experimental sake. I was looking at doing the new drive shaft, but kinda hoped I could get by without it. Not a fan of dropping the case with spacers tho so new ds may be in my future. Thanks for the reply

 

[Fughuert]

I have a 3” lift and no drop pitman and no problems. Idk why you would need one.

You should get an adjustable trackbar, jks is good/low cost.

I’d be careful about dropping your tcase til you get rid of that 2” body lift since you might run into shifting issues.

And if you were to adjust your pinion you’d really want upper and lowers but if you only get one the uppers would be the ones to try and set your pinion.

The MML sometimes helps driveshaft vibrations by angling the tcase output down. Unlikely to cure 3” lift vibes though.

 

[THE DOC]

If they are telling you to install a dropped pitman then find a new shop. You can get good results doing an alignment yourself with some simple tools. Without adjustable arms there isn't much to be done and certainly not enough to pay for. I have followed Jerry's instructions and have never had an issue. I usually give the alignment a good check every year or after any off-roading. I quickly made a set of alignment tools from home depot. Including 2 tape measures the total cost was below $20.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/View attachment 316106

Thanks for the reply. I have done this on my CJ before with mixed results, so I have all the stuff ready go.

 

[Hopper]

You can do what you feel is right for your jeep but 3" suspension I would just do it right with upper lower adjustable arms, SYE and DS, adjustable track bars. Toss the 2" BL and replace with 1".
Even if you gotta save up to get ot all you will be proud of what you got.
Good Luck.
P.S. your vibes are most likely coming from you DS angle new u joints probably won't fix it.

 

[THE DOC]

I have a 3” lift and no drop pitman and no problems. Idk why you would need one.

You should get an adjustable trackbar, jks is good/low cost.

I’d be careful about dropping your tcase til you get rid of that 2” body lift since you might run into shifting issues.

And if you were to adjust your pinion you’d really want upper and lowers but if you only get one the uppers would be the ones to try and set your pinion.

The MML sometimes helps driveshaft vibrations by angling the tcase output down. Unlikely to cure 3” lift vibes though.

Thank you

 

[THE DOC]

You can do what you feel is right for your jeep but 3" suspension I would just do it right with upper lower adjustable arms, SYE and DS, adjustable track bars. Toss the 2" BL and replace with 1".
Even if you gotta save up to get ot all you will be proud of what you got.
Good Luck.
P.S. your vibes are most likely coming from you DS angle new u joints probably won't fix it.

Thanks. Definitely want it to be right. Once I get the 2" body out and the 1.25" in, and the MML in, If I still have the vibes I will do the new drive shaft

 

[diggerwolf]

One very popular kit for the setup you describe is the Zone combination 4.25" lift:
https://zoneoffroad.com/products/425-in-combo-lift-kit-1997-2006-jeep-wrangler-tjCombine that with the RS5000X shocks listed for 2.5" (or 2") of lift and it will all go well together.

I have no experience with that kit, but have seen numerous people use it on this forum.

Another budget-minded option would be to combine the OME 2.5" suspension lift kit with a 1.25" body lift kit like the Savvy body lift kit. Avoid JKS and any other body lift kits that use a plastic puck. When the bolts are torqued to spec, the pucks squash and cause numerous issues. You'll also want a 1" motor mount lift with your 1.25" body lift.

Depending upon the final driveshaft angles, you may need an aftermarket CV style driveshaft, such as a Tom Wood (4xshaft.com) driveshaft. Unfortunately, with a stock shaft and stock (non-adjustable) control arms, a transfer case drop is unlikely to solve driveline angle issues in isolation.

Not to highjack this thread, but can someone post the PN(s) or link for the OME 2.5" suspension lift kit?

Specifically for a 2005 Sport, 4.0, 6-speed.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Hello all. Finally got around to installing the Zone combo 4.25" lift, however have not installed the body lift components yet as there is a 2" body lift already on it from the previous owner. I took it in for an alignment today and the guys said they couldn't do anything until I put on a drop pitman arm (which I have read will make bump steer worse) and also either a front track bar relocation bracket or an adjustable track bar. Also the thing shutters horribly now, and wondering if its due to not yet adding the motor mount lift which I would think would increase the angle more and make it even worse.

Your alignment guy is FOS about a DPA. Do the alignment yourself in 10 minutes and save the cash. You can buy an adjustable front track bar or simply drill another hole. You HAVE to install the MML to make it drivable. Even then, some Jeeps require a few washers to drop the skid 1/2". I've installed several of those Zone lifts and have one on my current Rubicon.

 

[THE DOC]

Your alignment guy is FOS about a DPA. Do the alignment yourself in 10 minutes and save the cash. You can buy an adjustable front track bar or simply drill another hole. You HAVE to install the MML to make it drivable. Even then, some Jeeps require a few washers to drop the skid 1/2". I've installed several of those Zone lifts and have one on my current Rubicon.
View attachment 316177

Thanks for replying. In the instructions it says to drill a new hole, which I did but the alignment guys said that the new hole location makes it dangerous?? Not enough meat left. There's 1/4" in both directions of metal yet so I think they're being a little paranoid about it. So the Zone MML will help the shutter? Getting ready to do the alignment now, and I will do the motor mount also if it will help. Nice rig btw

 

[TheBoogieman]

Thanks for replying. In the instructions it says to drill a new hole, which I did but the alignment guys said that the new hole location makes it dangerous?? Not enough meat left. There's 1/4" in both directions of metal yet so I think they're being a little paranoid about it. So the Zone MML will help the shutter? Getting ready to do the alignment now, and I will do the motor mount also if it will help. Nice rig btw

Not doing the MML is the reason for the shutter/vibes. I drilled a new hole on a previous Jeep and it was fine for 8 years (until I sold it).

 

[THE DOC]

Not doing the MML is the reason for the shutter/vibes. I drilled a new hole on a previous Jeep and it was fine for 8 years (until I sold it).

Thanks for the reply. I will post my findings after the MML is installed. New u joints did nothing, as expected. Front end alignment was way off, but now handles as it shoul after I set the toe-in.

 

[THE DOC]

Well, the MML did the trick.....ish. Still has a slide vibe at low rpm but way, way better than it was. Also removed the 2" body and put in the 1.25" body lift. The next item on the list is adjustable control arms and Woods double cardon with SYE. And also replacing the seal on the steering input shaft of the steering gear as it's now leaking badly since the lift kit install.