So im planning on upgrading my shocks next weekend and I always hear that the rear shock bolts snap while trying to get them out. I plan on hitting them with some PB blaster for the week. What is the best method to getting them out without issues. Should I go by hand or with an impact? I am trying to make it as painless as possible. The shocks were probably done a few years ago by previous owner and there isnt too much rust but I know that can be deceiving.
Will my rear shock bolts break on me?
- Thread starter RYAN17
- Start date
Jackman
TJ Enthusiast
Keep soaking them and do it by hand.. the impact will most likely snap them off. I broke three of my four bolts when changing my shocks. Ended up using new grade 8 bolts from the hardware store and did the bar pin eliminator after getting the welded nuts out.
Hit em with penetrating oil in advance. Spray them each day. Take it slow with hand tools and work them back and forth until they come out.
Did mine recently, originals with120k. Pulled the inner fenders back to get access to the bolt threads. Used acetone and transmission fluid mixed 50/50 applied with an acid brush, any small brush should work. Did this every day for a week. Made sure the socket was fully seated. Didn't break a single bolt. When I pulled the bolts I could see that the acetone/trans mix had soaked all the way down the bolt.
I’ve had better luck with Kroil than PB Blaster - it working on 40 year old bolts on a Commando convinced me there’s nothing better.
Kroil worked for me on all but the last bolt which snapped. I will definitely try the Acetone/Trans Fluid trick next time I need to free up a bolt/nut.
I've used Kroil for years and years. Lots of PB as well. Was really impressed by the 50/50 mix. Plus I can make a quart of the stuff for 8 or 10 bucks. The down side is that its not under pressure so you can't spray it.
I had 1 bolt that refused to budge, luckily it was the one closest to the frame, so I took the other bolt out, used a pry bar to push the shock out from under the stuck bolt. Then reversed the process to put the new one back in by tapping the shock mount under the frozen bolt.
After decades of using just about every "penetrating" oil out there I have found Kroil to be vastly superior to the p.b.blaster/wd-40 stuff. Only the liquid wrench seems any good at all. This includes the new purple and sea foam stuff.
Kroil is the only one that consistently works on real rust. That being said, a torch will out-work any of them. Unfortunately you are working next to a fuel tank. Weather they brake or not is more of a function of how they were last installed. When you reinstall the shock use a good grade 8 bolt. This gives you a greater chance of them coming out next time. And use a LOT of antiseize on the threads. Not only does this help with rust forming, it fills in all the available space between the threads preventing moisture from getting in at all.
The biggest factor that determines if the bolt will come out is metallurgy. That's why an 80 year old piece of farm equipment that has never seen a roof will loosen instead of break. And why a 60 year old tractor has a bit of surface rust and a 20 year old car is a pile of scrap.
Kroil is the only one that consistently works on real rust. That being said, a torch will out-work any of them. Unfortunately you are working next to a fuel tank. Weather they brake or not is more of a function of how they were last installed. When you reinstall the shock use a good grade 8 bolt. This gives you a greater chance of them coming out next time. And use a LOT of antiseize on the threads. Not only does this help with rust forming, it fills in all the available space between the threads preventing moisture from getting in at all.
The biggest factor that determines if the bolt will come out is metallurgy. That's why an 80 year old piece of farm equipment that has never seen a roof will loosen instead of break. And why a 60 year old tractor has a bit of surface rust and a 20 year old car is a pile of scrap.
Three of mine came out without an issue. One of them refused to budge and the head snapped clean off. Ground down the nut with a Dremel from the hole the shock is recessed into and placed a new bolt up there. They make replacement nut sets that you can slip on there without having to take anything apart, but they require the original nuts either be drilled or ground out.
Fughuert
TJ Enthusiast
Mine would not budge with a 1/2” impact. One came out other three were jammed
I found if you can get the bar pin out from under the bolt head, for whatever reason they will back out with no problem by hand.
Using a mirror to see I used a carbide burr in a right angle die grinder poking through the hole the shock sits to grind down the weld on the nuts to the point I can air hammer them off from below.
I found if you can get the bar pin out from under the bolt head, for whatever reason they will back out with no problem by hand.
Using a mirror to see I used a carbide burr in a right angle die grinder poking through the hole the shock sits to grind down the weld on the nuts to the point I can air hammer them off from below.
It's a crap shoot. I soaked my rear shock bolts for weeks using Kroil. I got three bolts out and the last one was tight. I slowly worked it back and forth and the head of the bastard still snapped off. Ended up drilling out the bolt with a cobalt drill from below and chased all of the threads with a tap. I used new shouldered metric Grade 10? bolts with plenty of Never Seize going back. Coated the exposed threads of the bolt with Cosmoline.
More than likely they will break. You can try and soak them in kroil / liquid wrench and hope for success. I did for a few weeks and snapped my first one. At that point instead of wasting time to try and get the others out clean, I accepted defeat. Broke all 4, dropped the fuel tank and dremel wheeled off the welded nuts and then dremel sanded it smooth. A pain in the ass to be honest but definitely doable. When the job was complete, felt so good to be done! A time consuming job for sure so make sure you have a decent amount of beer on hand!
On my '97 with 193k miles and OEM shocks, I used Kroil days ahead and an impact wrench. The upper bolts in the back spun right now with no problem. I disagree that an impact wrench is a bad way to go. It actually puts less stress on the fastener than a breaker bar.
Chances are you’ll break at least one. Like everyone says..use your favorite penetrating oil and the key is patience. Soak it for at least a week in advance. Hit it a few times each day. Get a good 6 point socket and make sure it’s seated fully. Worth it back and forth slowly the whole way. I used an impact for 2 of the 4 and it was 50% successful. Just pulse it back and forth. I got impatient and ended up snapping 2 of the 4. Of all the work I’ve done in my TJ, rear shocks were the biggest PITA. Even more than drum brakes.
Use an impact but turn the power way down at first and let the hammering action break the joint without turning the bolt, after a few minutes of low power the bolt has a better chance of coming out without breaking. Thats of course after soaking with your favourite penetrating oil.