Wiring nightmare after small engine fire
- Thread starter Boooosted strangler
- Start date
I will take some better pics of the motor when I get off work all the pics I have are old and alot more done since then..when it actually starts and runs she's pretty bad...that turbo was a whole other undertaking but with big injectors and a hot tune she will wake up!!! Hence the cracked headed and small fire lol...the last week it was driving was the best running most fun I had ever had and then the fire and I have been out there every night trying to figure this out...anyone that has connect diagrams , and fuse box diagrams like above I'm begging for help
DougyintheBushies
TJ Enthusiast
Thanks for the pic. Very cool to see your boy loving that Jeep. I'm trying to get my boy to help with mine.
Yea the whole point of buying it was to fix it up as he grew up and that be his first jeep ,but I got a little excited and went all in lol
The FUSE BOX is behind the glove box, the POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER is in front of the battery. Both have fuses, the PDC also has relays.
That’s the glovebox fuse panel. All that stuff is from the FSM, which can be found in one of the other sub forums here. It’s impossible to debug wiring without it.
I am curious if the old wiring harness could be reused at this point and just repair the wiring that was damaged in the fire. That way you only have to troubleshoot 4 or 5 connections instead of possible any connection in the entire new harness.
I'm also curious to know if you have pined out the wiring harness using a multimeter and checked each wire from beginning to end to verify it isn't corroded, broken, or worn through somewhere. As was mentioned above, the color of the wire might not be what it's supposed to be, but as long as it begins and ends where it's supposed to it should work just fine.
Another thing you can do is get some wire markers or a label maker, and a notebook to keep track of each wire you have already tested and compare to the manuals.
Personally if it was my Jeep I would go back to the harness that I know used to work, and then try and repair just the wiring that got cooked.
Good luck with your Jeep though, I hope you get it sorted out.
I'm also curious to know if you have pined out the wiring harness using a multimeter and checked each wire from beginning to end to verify it isn't corroded, broken, or worn through somewhere. As was mentioned above, the color of the wire might not be what it's supposed to be, but as long as it begins and ends where it's supposed to it should work just fine.
Another thing you can do is get some wire markers or a label maker, and a notebook to keep track of each wire you have already tested and compare to the manuals.
Personally if it was my Jeep I would go back to the harness that I know used to work, and then try and repair just the wiring that got cooked.
Good luck with your Jeep though, I hope you get it sorted out.
I had "similar" problems, my plan of attack was to unplug the harness from the transmission area and pull it all up into the engine bay. Then peel back all the loom & tape and investigate the full length of each wire, check for continuity, etc. It can be hard because the C016 C107 C108 connectors are on the other side of the firewall and there is no plug on that side of the wire bundle; it's all pinned into the male side of those connectors (if memory serves).
I had to do this because I knew of one short that was affecting my reverse lights. What I found was like 10 wires that were either completely broken or had the insulation completely missing, all in the same place. My advice would be to spend the time now to investigate as much of the harness as you can while you have your hands in there. Then get new split loom & tape once you've fixed everything. That old loom gets brittle and stops being the protective layer you need it to be. Also, probably a good time to talk about how you're going to splice new wires in. i.e. don't use those crappy auto zone crimp connectors.
Based on what you've said, I don't expect there to be any issues behind the dash...that's a real pain to get at that section of the harness.
I also made a version of the FSM that only has section 8W to make searching a little easier. It can take some time getting used to the layout because it's not organized by wire but by functional area, which can make it challenging to trace something across sections of the document. I found that in certain cases it was better for me to build my own diagram tracing full wires...it's not that hard...just follow the connectors & splices until you have mapped out what you need.
I had to do this because I knew of one short that was affecting my reverse lights. What I found was like 10 wires that were either completely broken or had the insulation completely missing, all in the same place. My advice would be to spend the time now to investigate as much of the harness as you can while you have your hands in there. Then get new split loom & tape once you've fixed everything. That old loom gets brittle and stops being the protective layer you need it to be. Also, probably a good time to talk about how you're going to splice new wires in. i.e. don't use those crappy auto zone crimp connectors.
Based on what you've said, I don't expect there to be any issues behind the dash...that's a real pain to get at that section of the harness.
I also made a version of the FSM that only has section 8W to make searching a little easier. It can take some time getting used to the layout because it's not organized by wire but by functional area, which can make it challenging to trace something across sections of the document. I found that in certain cases it was better for me to build my own diagram tracing full wires...it's not that hard...just follow the connectors & splices until you have mapped out what you need.
Yea I thought that too because I did fix all the wires that were burnt and it did start fine....buuuut it was running like dog crap it was cutting out and not staying running...so I thought and was hoping that a new harness would be the fix and it made it worse ...the other variable in that first equation was I made a new header and it was more like the turbo bolt up style manifolds and where I may have had the O2 sensor too close to the cylinders...but now I have cut the old harness to make the connector work on the new ...so kinda feel committed at this point...I don't use crimp connectors I just go with a nice and tight lineman knot or splice and heat shrink everything, I was soldering everything on my original burnt harness where I cut out the burnt bad sections dud lineman knot and soldered but I have just been lineman knotting this new harness well new to me used harness
When you repaired your cracked header, what other parts did you remove and reinstall? It might have been running rough with the repaired original harness because you have a leak, or something got left loose, unplugged, out of time... It might have been a mechanical issue and not an electrical issue. Did you pull any diagnostics or check for codes before pulling the harness?
I mean the whole intake manifold , the exhaust manifold all came off but I have had that on and off alot with the turbo install playing with big injectors , I made a completely different style header that goes to the turbo ...I knew my problem was more than likely not the harness but a possibility, I had scabbed in so much that I was hoping for a plug and play swap and be a decent harness rather than my solder wire spliced up job I did after the fire...I just found the home for the red and light green wire and still no luck...getting super frustrated now I was really hopefully with that one
I'm really considering pushing it down to the boat ramp and pushing it in the lake right now!!!
The best way to troubleshoot is to divide everything in half, then take measurements and see what half is working and what half isn't, then again, and repeat... the issue you're having is that nothing is working at all, and you don't really know if it ever worked to begin with. I would fix your Jeep 1 of two ways. 1. Install the old wiring harness and get it back to where it at least starts and runs, then 1 at a time fix and verify the fix, to each and every wire that got melted. Or 2, I would cut all the connectors off of your wiring harness leaving about a foot or two of pig tail on them, plug them all in where they go, and run a brand new wire between the pig tail and where ever they are supposed to go to one brand new wire at a time. Folks with show cars do it all the time so they can lengthen their wiring harness and hide all the wiring behind body panels. Custom motorcycles do it to run wiring inside the handlebars and frame. If you can spend all that time bolting adapters together to get those bends on your turbo piping, you can rewire the Jeep if you need to.
Right I really had already thought that before I bought the ebay one just re wire it all my damn self....but was sure hoping this would be easier I just don't get it mostly everything is the same and traced what is not ...as for the headers and turbo piping I was a pipefitter, boilermaker, pipe welder sooo that stuff is 2nd nature to me , I always let sparkys deal with the wires but I'm I'm giving her hell on this one I'm still wanting to push it in the lake right now!!!! Lol I really appreciate you guys this is an awesome thing that guys like me would be a lost dumb welder trying to play with wires so thank you!!! I really appreciate it like foreal
Does anyone have a Diagram or picture of the connector going into the ignition coil?? That was the only connector I took all the way apart and re pinned it and I'm I guess wishful thinking I have it reverse polarity
it's in the FSM, starting with 8W-30-1 it explains how each of the systems functions, and then shows the wiring.
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