Yukon spin free hub installation
- Thread starter Sammie18
- Start date
Makes me wanna ship my hubs 'n stuff to your shop for a perfect install.
Only required if Yukon screws up the parts and they need fixed. At that point, the 10 different reamers and 6 different sets of wheel studs I now stock may come in handy.
This comes up quite often in discussions with owners of hub kits. There is a very limited selection of press in studs to get more thread length past the flange face. The easy way to solve that is to just clock over between the old pattern with a new one and drill the rotors for 1/2" clearance holes, then drill and tap the hub flange for 1/2-20. You can go all the up to a 3" long screw in stud that way. Never a problem with too short studs after that. And, it is something we do all the time.
OP
Yes, I can be a miserable OLD twat at times and jump to conclusions but all I wanted to know if was a simple yes or no answer so I could forget it later while having a, as one of the others said, having a Biden moment. I know how it engages and disengages but it has been 53 years since owning my CJ and if I recall correctly there was a more positive stop at both positions not free like this Yukon. Yes I have reidentified myself after my dog since I'd rather not be a "Gym Sock". I apologize and you do have some impressive credentials, have a nice day!
OP
OP
Only as old as you feel, aches and pains not included, but I'm 71 thank you and it's been 53 years since I owned my last jeep and still do all my own wrenching. I'm just not a rock crawler like you young bucks.
Named changed so all bets are now off. Welcome to the forum.
I should have had you do that to mine years ago. Yes I know you offered years ago lol.
If you are running the 5.5" Yukon Hardcore hub locks, they operate backwards of most of the stuff out there in common use. They default locked so when you turn the lock knob to unlock, you are pushing the two clutches apart manually. If there is any side to side bind in the front axle, they can be very difficult to unlock. When you turn the knob to the lock position, you are relaxing the force the ramps on the lock knob used to force them apart. Then the spring pushes the inner clutch outward to engage the two sets of teeth. If the teeth are not lined up, nothing will snap into place until they line up by turning one side more than the other. That's why you have to jack up one side and see how it all works.
The old Warn and similar style have detents in the lock knob to stop it at both positions. They work conventionally in that when you turn the knob to the lock position, the screw ramps compress a spring that then attempts for force the clutch halves together. They use inner and outer splines on those and when the splines line up, it locks in.
Yukon operates more like a locker does with opposing faces of teeth that lock together.
Ouch, you got me. It's been 52 years for me. Yes, the CJ hubs turned and 'clicked' into the locked position. In the cold, they were hard to turn, so I carried a pair of pliers in my Jeep just for the hubs.
OP
Thanks for the info. I went with the lighter 4.5 version since I'm not a rock crawler just a back woods hunting kid of guy. Detents is the word I was searching for and my old CJ hubs did just that.
Good on you for the apology to @mrblaine so I’ll take back the Biden comment but you’re still an old fart and welcome to the forum.