ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

[glwood]

Keep in mind there's no benefit to also installing the ZJ drag link which is no different than the TJ's drag link. Only the tie rod from a ZJ with the V8 engine is stronger.

Thank you for the tip. I have considered the upgrade, but now know to skip the drag link, saving $94.00...

 

[Ahoragi]

If anyone goes with the crown HD kit then beware it will rust-convert itself to match the UPS truck.

Best to get a couple coats of paint on it before install.

I been running it for a year now but I coated it with 7 coats of hammered paint. No rust.

 

[EJD]

I'm wondering are any special tools needed to handle this project?

 

[Chris]

I'm wondering are any special tools needed to handle this project?

Nope, just basic tools required!

 

[Serbonze]

I'm wondering are any special tools needed to handle this project?

A 3lb hammer is certainly helpful to get the tie rod and drag link bolts out. A pitman arm puller (free rental from Autozone) makes the drag link removal even easier

 

[skrelnik]

A 3lb hammer is certainly helpful to get the tie rod and drag link bolts out. A pitman arm puller (free rental from Autozone) makes the drag link removal even easier

+1

Advanced Auto has loaner for a front end service kit that includes a few puller types.

 

[Mike_H]

You can just use a 3lb hammer, but I don't like beating on my stuff that hard. I used a tie rod end separator and a 2 jaw puller. You can rent a front end service kit like pictured below.

That will contain both tools. The tire rid separator is the black thing in the middle. It's nice because it is much easier to use and not damage the boot. You slide it into the joint, used a bolt to put pressure on the joint, and give the knuckle and firm tap. It should pop right out. I had to use the two jaw on the steering damper post on the drag link. It was STUCK.

 

[EJD]

A 3lb hammer is certainly helpful to get the tie rod and drag link bolts out. A pitman arm puller (free rental from Autozone) makes the drag link removal even easier

I may be interested in whatever I can to make this job go any smoother. I've started soaking things in penetrating oil already. I have to replace 4 tie rod ends, 2 sleeves, drag link, and steering stabilizer. It is my understanding that everything can be taken off just sitting on the tires with no jack stands? or am I going to need stands?

 

[Mike_H]

You should be able to do it on the tires. I like pulling tires because it gives you better access...But I have stands and a jack and an impact, etc. I can have it on stands and the tires off in less than 10 minutes.

 

[bobthetj03]

Measure the length of your tie rods and drag link before removing them so you can get the new components close to length.

 

[Thunderhead]

All the parts are ordered. Came out to $85 on Amazon!
Hopefully will get these in and the rear seal replaced next weekend !
(Work)

 

[cjaama]

Another noob question that I could probably find the answer to somewhere...
After doing this "mod", would you need to have a realignment? Is there any chance of throwing things out of whack and causing death wobble?

 

[EJD]

Another noob question that I could probably find the answer to somewhere...
After doing this "mod", would you need to have a realignment? Is there any chance of throwing things out of whack and causing death wobble?

Yes you would need an alignment after this conversion. However you can do the alignment yourself if you choose.

 

[jlpierce70]

Old thread I know...

If I did this conversion to my 99, what seat of the pants change would I feel when driving on the road?

 

[JeepingNet]

Should, in theory, be no change at all but you are replacing it with new ends so it could give a tighter feel in the steering but no upgrade in feel just strength.

I've rammed by ZJ bar a few times that I know the factory link would have bent.