ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

I just did the ZJ tie rod kit (pieced it together) and it's nice and simple. Currie makes good stuff. When I get a bit further down the road I'll post my steering/suspension and axle builds, but I need to finish them and I don't know that it all actually works.

I got the DS1430. I suggest getting both and returning one. You'll have to return stuff if you get it off Amazon.
 
I might add that I got MOOG bushings too for my control arms from Amazon and MOOG told me they were made in the USA, but I got a mix of made in India and Mexico. The ones from India did not fit. Never got any bushings Made in the USA.
 
I'm finally ready to actually do this, but as always I'm a cheapskate. Does anyone have firsthand knowledge of whether or not the coupler (ES2079S) is the same size/thread pitch/etc as the OEM part. It appears to be the same based on part numbers on Rock Auto, but would love some facts.
 
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I'm finally ready to actually do this, but as always I'm a cheapskate. Does anyone have firsthand knowledge of whether or not the coupler (ES2079S) is the same size/thread pitch/etc as the OEM part. It appears to be the same based on part numbers on Rock Auto, but would love some facts.
I just used 2 of those with the above parts. But only 1 is stock to the TJ because my driver's side had a smaller thread until I did the ZJ conversion.

Confirm your parts are right if you order off of Amazon, because I had to return that coupler twice to get the right one. IE I ended up ordering 4 to get 2 that were correct.
 
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If you're worried, when you pull everything, just adjust it all to close dimensions and confirm it all fits. It will fit.

Then just align it like they say on this forum. It's simple. Now instead of the AL square I just used 2 levels and made marks for 33" where my tires would have been. 2 tape measures, clamps for the tape measures on that one end and then just dial it all in, but tighten down the sleeve nuts a bit first so you just have to snug them up when you're ready to lock everything in.

I applied anti-seize to all the ends too.
 
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Ok, so here's my parts list. If you see anything missing or incorrect, let me know. I'll be doing this ASAP.

Drag Link (Stock) NAPA#2696090
Tie Rod End (x2) NAPA#269-2788 Moog#ES3096L (1 at Pitman Arm and 1 at Driver's side wheel)
Adjusting Sleeve NAPA#269-1134 Moog#ES2079S
Tie Rod NAPA#269-6085 Moog#DS1312

Oh, and a pickle fork!
Is the tie rod end the same for both the TJ drag link and the ZJ tie rod? And would you also need another adjusting sleeve, or do the tie rod and tie rod end connect in a different way.

I'm having a little trouble figuring this out, especially because most websites call both parts "tie rod".
 
Is the tie rod end the same for both the TJ drag link and the ZJ tie rod? And would you also need another adjusting sleeve, or do the tie rod and tie rod end connect in a different way.

I'm having a little trouble figuring this out, especially because most websites call both parts "tie rod".
Yes, I believe the tie rod end is the same part.

There is an adjusting collar on the drag link to center your steering wheel and another collar on the tie rod to adjust the toe-in.
 
Is there a special boot for the tie rod end? 1 side has a different looking boot and the other touches the rotor and the rotor sliced the boot almost immediately on mine
 
I had all these in my cart on Amazon and then came here to find RockAuto might be cheaper, so I will be going that route. I'm especially curious about the possibility of the DS1238 working.
 
I had all these in my cart on Amazon and then came here to find RockAuto might be cheaper, so I will be going that route. I'm especially curious about the possibility of the DS1238 working.
Just be sure to check shipping prices via RockAuto. After shipping I think it ended up being just a few dollars more to go via Amazon, but the delivery is going to be quicker.
 
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Just be sure to check shipping prices via RockAuto. After shipping I think it ended up being just a few dollars more to go via Amazon, but the delivery is going to be quicker.
Good point. I've had good luck with RockAuto, most of what I've ordered in the past has not had to come from too far away. I will double-check, though. Thanks!
 
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I had all these in my cart on Amazon and then came here to find RockAuto might be cheaper, so I will be going that route. I'm especially curious about the possibility of the DS1238 working.

I finally did this upgrade last week. The DS1238 works perfectly, it appears to be identical to the OEM TJ part (DS1430). Why they have different part numbers is beyond me. Price-wise Amazon grand total was about $50 more expensive, and RockAuto quoted $16 to ship everything so the choice was clear.

Is the tie rod end the same for both the TJ drag link and the ZJ tie rod? And would you also need another adjusting sleeve, or do the tie rod and tie rod end connect in a different way.

I'm having a little trouble figuring this out, especially because most websites call both parts "tie rod".

I had similar questions & it's easy to get confused by the overuse of the phrase "tie rod end", but now I have answers. If you weren't confused going into this, I'm happy for you. This is for the rest of us, hopefully it clears up some confusion for those of us mere mortals.

On the drag link (the part that goes to the pitman arm), the pieces are all the same as OEM; no actual changes. There is a long end (DS1238; this is the XJ part), a "short end" (ES3096L, same as OEM), and a coupler (ES2079S, same as OEM). You can likely re-use the coupler, but the short end is probably worth replacing.

On the "tie rod" (the part that goes from the driver knuckle to one of the holes on the drag link), it is all new pieces. The OEM is built with 2 sad little tie rod ends that thread into a long skinny tube, so nothing is reusable. The ZJ upgrade is as follows: a "long end" (DS1312; this is the only ZJ-specific part), a "short end" (ES3096L), and a coupler (ES2079S).

To further clarify, there are 4 "boot ends" in play here: 1 is physically part of DS1312 and 1 is physically part of DS1238. The other 2 boot ends are the ES3096L's, and are connected via couplers (ES2079S) to DS1312 & DS1238 respectively.
 
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I finally did this upgrade last week. The DS1238 works perfectly, it appears to be identical to the OEM TJ part (DS1430). Why they have different part numbers is beyond me. Price-wise Amazon grand total was about $50 more expensive, and RockAuto quoted $16 to ship everything so the choice was clear.



I had similar questions & it's easy to get confused by the overuse of the phrase "tie rod end", but now I have answers. If you weren't confused going into this, I'm happy for you. This is for the rest of us, hopefully it clears up some confusion for those of us mere mortals.

On the drag link (the part that goes to the pitman arm), the pieces are all the same as OEM; no actual changes. There is a long end (DS1238; this is the XJ part), a "short end" (ES3096L, same as OEM), and a coupler (ES2079S, same as OEM). You can likely re-use the coupler, but the short end is probably worth replacing.

On the "tie rod" (the part that goes from the driver knuckle to one of the holes on the drag link), it is all new pieces. The OEM is built with 2 sad little tie rod ends that thread into a long skinny tube, so nothing is reusable. The ZJ upgrade is as follows: a "long end" (DS1312; this is the only ZJ-specific part), a "short end" (ES3096L), and a coupler (ES2079S).
Hear hear! This is so much clearer! I actually have all of these parts enroute from Amazon, except I didn't realize that the DS1238 could be swapped out so I ordered the more expensive DS1430. However, thanks to your very timely report I will have both by Thursday, I'll actually be able to compare them side-by-side (and post pics if that's helpful to anyone else), and then I'll return the 1430 and save about $30. Thank you thank you!
 
Hear hear! This is so much clearer! I actually have all of these parts enroute from Amazon, except I didn't realize that the DS1238 could be swapped out so I ordered the more expensive DS1430. However, thanks to your very timely report I will have both by Thursday, I'll actually be able to compare them side-by-side (and post pics if that's helpful to anyone else), and then I'll return the 1430 and save about $30. Thank you thank you!
I'm also curious to hear about how this improves steering/wobbling at speed. My Hulk is a 2001 with 233,000 miles on it, and I think the vast majority of parts are original. When driving above 45mph or so, the front end will vibrate and shake--not enough to qualify as "death wobble", but enough to be noticeable/distracting. I chalked it up to being 20 years old and likely neglected. New Rancho 5000 shocks (arrived yesterday) and replacing the steering components should go a long ways to tightening him up.
 
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I only have ~145k miles, but my drag link ball joints are SHOT. I can grab the tie rod and rotate it back and forth about 25°. Beefing up these parts should help. I'm also going wheeling for the first time on Saturday, and I figure I can get these swapped out before then.
 
I can't believe you didn't read all 20 pages to pull out that little nugget on page 12. I question your dedication. 😉
@Chris - maybe you could add a few of these details to the OP? Specifically that the DS1238 is cheaper but equivalent to the DS1430, and that you may need 2x of the short ends and coupling sleeves depending on how much you're replacing.
 
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I'm also curious to hear about how this improves steering/wobbling at speed. My Hulk is a 2001 with 233,000 miles on it, and I think the vast majority of parts are original. When driving above 45mph or so, the front end will vibrate and shake--not enough to qualify as "death wobble", but enough to be noticeable/distracting. I chalked it up to being 20 years old and likely neglected. New Rancho 5000 shocks (arrived yesterday) and replacing the steering components should go a long ways to tightening him up.
There's lots of things that contribute to all that...track bar, wheel bearings, ball joints, control arms, and then all this stuff. Not to mention properly balanced wheels. At 233k miles, you're probably due for a refresh on a lot of things. At which point you'll notice all the problems the old parts were masking. :)
 
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I only have ~145k miles, but my drag link ball joints are SHOT. I can grab the tie rod and rotate it back and forth about 25°. Beefing up these parts should help. I'm also going wheeling for the first time on Saturday, and I figure I can get these swapped out before then.
Play some 4D Chess and change them after you go wheeling so you won't feel bad if you bust up the old parts.
 
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