Someone on a different forum had said don't use the 1238 because of the different angle, so I figured since I had both I'd take pictures to document it for others' reference. Since yours worked I'll try it and document that too.Interesting. I’ve got my 1238 all mount up no problem, so I guess I’m gonna YOLO this setup for a while. That’s a subtle difference on just the steering dampener mount...I’m sure somebody with a high post count will belittle me for being so cavalier with my life and those around me. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
It's hard to know which minor things are important and which aren't. I mean, Jeeps existed for years with OEM parts, but sometimes around here you have to be a lawyer or dentist to afford parts that won't literally jump out of the box and kill your family*. And then I watch the sh*tbox XJs wheel hard and it just doesn't always add up. Sorry for the mini-rant. Just needed to share a counterpoint which doesn't appear to always be welcome here.Someone on a different forum had said don't use the 1238 because of the different angle, so I figured since I had both I'd take pictures to document it for others' reference. Since yours worked I'll try it and document that too.
Depends on the zerk - most likely an NPT tap. Do you have a hardware store near you that you could pick up a zerk and then get the corresponding tap?I feel like I saw another post about this, but can't seem to find it. The hole for the zerk fitting isn't threaded on the tie-rod. What size tap do I need for this?
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Depends on the zerk - most likely an NPT tap. Do you have a hardware store near you that you could pick up a zerk and then get the corresponding tap?
Lots of YouTube videos on this, as per above using castle nut to protect thread when persuading. Also a lot suggest striking the knuckle to help release.Any tips on removing these? it seems like both ends are siezed and the one to my pitman arm is as well.
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Worked perfectlyI put the castle nut on upside down + gave it a little heat and then beat it with a hammer. Popped right off.
This is normal. The stock ZJ bar has a slight bend to it on the axle side.Tie rod ends look different than stock TJ. Maybe the non-v8 version of the ZJ? Photo shows stock TJ tie rod on top and the recommended ZJ tie rod on bottom:
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This is normal. The stock ZJ bar has a slight bend to it on the axle side.
Do you have there 2 of the 3096L? Not including the stabilizer this includes; 2- 2079S, 2-3096L , 1 ds1430, 1- ds1312. Can you confirm? ThanksGot this done yesterday, including the drag link, stabilizer, connectors, and all tie rod ends.
Thanks @Chris , @hear , and everyone else who contributed to the discussion.
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Leave the nut on loose, then insert a prybar so you can put a little pressure in the direction of separation. Now smack the crap out of the knuckle eye casting. On the end, just above the boot. The vibration from your smacking into the knuckle along with the down pressure will unseat the taper. While the nut keeps it and you from dropping to the ground. It usually only takes 2-3 whacks.Any tips on removing these? it seems like both ends are siezed and the one to my pitman arm is as well.
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