Zone 4" lift or Skyjacker 4" lift?

My advice would be to slow down, save a bit more $ if you have to, and make sure you listen to the resident experts here (@Chris @Jerry Bransford @Ranger_b0b @jjvw @JMT @Shane Mckinley) on what they have told you. Not all will agree exactly what parts/lift you should buy, but all are guiding you in the same general direction. Jeeps are like the old "I know an old lady who swallowed a fly" story, and these guys are trying hard to get you to not to swallow that fly and start an expensive chain reaction. If you want to save money (now and in the long run), and if you want to have something that rides well on the road and lasts a good while without further mods or problems, the last thing you want to do is cheap out on a 4" lift, get drivetrain vibrations, and then get into needing an SYE, new rear driveshaft etc. Good luck!

Totally agreed. Slow down and save your money. I'm just trying to get you to avoid making the mistake so many of us made the first time. Buying a cheap lift, only to get rid of it a year later for that better lift. Which if you keep your Jeep long enough this is something you will more than likely do.

The urge is very tempting, I know that better than anyone. But if you plan on keeping your TJ for a long time, I'd put a high quality lift on it.
 
Just to clarify where I'm coming from...I'm running a 2" spring lift, with a 1.25" body lift. Factory control arms, adjustable track bar up front, factory rear with a bracket. RE quick discos up front. 32" tires. I can flex like crazy, no driveshaft binding, and it drive almost like stock. I'm planning on bumping tire size soon. It was built for 33s, and that's what is going on.

There is more to give in these pics, but you get the idea.
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@mots. Born and raised Tucson great City with little town feel. Thanks for your input really appreciated

@Chris. I agree with your statement of getting something worth it the first time.

The one and only issue is I have been given a budget now and for the future by the wife.. with no wiggle room..so despite the fact that I want a full Johnny joint suspension or arb/ome or something from metalcloak.. I am relegated to the sort of lifts we have been discussing

@everyone. I love the input and appreciate the advice. It really feels like talking to family in here. Tons of people have asked me and don't understand when I say it's a Jeep thing. It's like being born into a community where you are accepted unconditionally. Despite color, lift, tire, use, engine.. I guess I am just trying to express that not very often in ones life do you find a group of people scattered across The world really. Who are willing to take a few minutes and help out.
Really and truly this is an awesome place and thank you to all for the help.!!!



[emoji112]

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I'm happy with my Zone 4.25 combo lift. I did have to drop my transmission 1/2" to cure a driveline vibe, but that is a temporary fix until i can get a new rear drive shaft.
 
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I'm happy with my Zone 4.25 combo lift. I did have to drop my transmission 1/2" to cure a driveline vibe, but that is a temporary fix until i can get a new rear drive shaft.
Do the stock lower control arms work well with this? I'm trying to wrap my head around the geometry of it.. at what point are longer control arms necessary?

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Do the stock lower control arms work well with this? I'm trying to wrap my head around the geometry of it.. at what point are longer control arms necessary?

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Around 3.5-4”. See my setup just below in my signature. 3”, I’m playing it safe for now. Plus, if I wanted to go to 37’s with 3” of lift, I know how to do that
 
Do the stock lower control arms work well with this? I'm trying to wrap my head around the geometry of it.. at what point are longer control arms necessary?

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I recently installed some adjustable caster bolts to get some angle back. It seems to ride a bit nicer now. But I installed them trying to chase down a vibe, which I now believe to have isolated to a tire issue. Eventually, I will go with adjustable control arms, probably johnny joints.
 
If I do the combo lift do I need to worry about control arms??

What about this lift
Rancho rs6503b


Or this one?? From quadratec

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View attachment 51926View attachment 51927

OP, I put a Zone 4.25" combo on my '02 15 months ago. I don't like BLs, so I left it off, and installed only the 3" suspension lift. I clear 33x10.5 tires with a little tire scrub on my front flares at flex. And I found that I did not need control arms. I really like this lift, and I think I got a lot of bang for my bucks.
 
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Ok.. So I just pulled the trigger on the combo lift.. after trying to piece together a lift with all that is included with that one I ended up with a total about 150 more.. And with no shocks or sway bar links.. so I did it.. I ordered the combo lift. I will report back with photos when it arrives and a step by step.. Im excited to give it a shot!!

Thanks to all

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I have 2.5 skyjacker springs don’t know why people despise the lifts,mine rides like a charm but it’s probably because I mixed it up with rancho 5000x shocks. Don’t really believe springs have too much to do with how rough the ride is as long as the spring rate is right. Like he said mix it up


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Why? Garbage, meaning what exactly?

I was just referring to how much flex you’ll get. If you stuff the tires, you won’t have much at all.

If you think that the control arm bushings/joints are the weakest link and will go first, then you need different control arms. And I don't understand why you think control arms don't matter on a Jeep.

In my case, they are. Like I mentioned, I’ve had the lift since ‘09 and the ONLY things that need to be replaced (besides shocks) are the control arm bushings.

And I didn’t mean to say they don’t matter period. What I should have clarified, or typed differently, is to say that a control arm ... is a control arm on a Jeep. They’re light, so there aren’t really any bad control arms out there. If there are, i’m sure Skyjacker, or any reputable suspension brand, won’t sell them. The biggest difference between control arms, would be how they mount to the Jeep. The bushings. So, that’s why I feel they could be the first thing to go.

And as usual, everyone’s experience differs from the next with the same product. My 4” Skyjacker lift has been great to me! [emoji4]



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I was just referring to how much flex you’ll get. If you stuff the tires, you won’t have much at all.
So, if you set the Jeep up to stuff the tires, you won't have much flex? Why? That makes no sense.

In my case, they are. Like I mentioned, I’ve had the lift since ‘09 and the ONLY things that need to be replaced (besides shocks) are the control arm bushings.
That's because SJ control arms are poorly designed. The stock arms allow for more flex even though the rubber bushings are similar.


And I didn’t mean to say they don’t matter period. What I should have clarified, or typed differently, is to say that a control arm ... is a control arm on a Jeep. They’re light, so there aren’t really any bad control arms out there. If there are, i’m sure Skyjacker, or any reputable suspension brand, won’t sell them. The biggest difference between control arms, would be how they mount to the Jeep. The bushings. So, that’s why I feel they could be the first thing to go.

When did Skyjacker become a reputable brand?

There are plenty of bad control arm and bushing designs out there. I'm not sure you understand the many things control arms are meant to accomplish. They absolutely matter and it has nothing to do with the weight of the vehicle. The bushings/joints need to allow both travel and misalignment.

And as usual, everyone’s experience differs from the next with the same product. My 4” Skyjacker lift has been great to me! [emoji4]

I'm glad the SJ is doing what you need it to. I'd rather use the stock arms in many cases because they are a far better design than most of what is available.
 
So, if you set the Jeep up to stuff the tires, you won't have much flex? Why? That makes no sense.

If they’re stuffed in the wheel wells, they’ll rub on the fenders sooner. What I’m I missing lol.

That's because SJ control arms are poorly designed. The stock arms allow for more flex even though the rubber bushings are similar.

Please elaborate on how a steel tube is poorly designed lol. I can understand the bushings (like I mentioned being the weak link) being poorly designed, and I’ll agree with that. I do not like them. But a steel tube itself, unless it’s breaking, cannot be poorly designed. If we get into needing angled arms for crazy lifts and clearing 40s ... well that’s a different story. Flex is limited by the bump stops, shocks, tire size, and sway bars. Never heard anyone say control arms limit flex. Unless they’re hitting mounting brackets.

When did Skyjacker become a reputable brand?

They’ve been around for a while, no? When did they turn into a bad brand? Honestly, since I started on this forum about a month ago, I’ve never heard trash spoken about “SJl and Quadratec. On a serious note, what has Quadratec done? I haven’t bought parts from them since winter time 2012. Never had bad experiences.

There are plenty of bad control arm and bushing designs out there. I'm not sure you understand the many things control arms are meant to accomplish. They absolutely matter and it has nothing to do with the weight of the vehicle. The bushings/joints need to allow both travel and misalignment.

Okay. I’ll further explain this ..... as a vehicle weighs more, you’ll need a beefier set of control arms, yes? At this basic level he’s going to, I don’t think he should be worrying about the intricacy of a set of control arms. Got forbid he gets crappy designed bushings. It’s a simple replacement. He’s looking for a cheap way to lift his Jeep ... in 4 years, I’d say it’s reasonable to expect to change out control arm bushings if this Jeep does more than highway driving. UNLESS he springs for a pricier set. BUT, I have been out of the loop for a while with Jeeping. I’m sure newer and better products have come about in the past 5-9 years.

I'm glad the SJ is doing what you need it to. I'd rather use the stock arms in many cases because they are a far better design than most of what is available.

Hey, almost 10 years and no issues? I’d say it’s done me well. I’ve put that Jeep through its paces and was able to drive it home on the highway.

Oh, and I never had DW. In my truck I did, but that’s neither here, nor there.


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@mots. Born and raised Tucson great City with little town feel. Thanks for your input really appreciated

@Chris. I agree with your statement of getting something worth it the first time.

The one and only issue is I have been given a budget now and for the future by the wife.. with no wiggle room..so despite the fact that I want a full Johnny joint suspension or arb/ome or something from metalcloak.. I am relegated to the sort of lifts we have been discussing

@everyone. I love the input and appreciate the advice. It really feels like talking to family in here. Tons of people have asked me and don't understand when I say it's a Jeep thing. It's like being born into a community where you are accepted unconditionally. Despite color, lift, tire, use, engine.. I guess I am just trying to express that not very often in ones life do you find a group of people scattered across The world really. Who are willing to take a few minutes and help out.
Really and truly this is an awesome place and thank you to all for the help.!!!



[emoji112]

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
The OME 2.5” lift with JKS 1.25” body lift is around a grand. How much are the cheapo lifts 500-600? Your only 400 bucks away. Why install something so inferior when you can get a much better lift for not all that much more?
 
If they’re stuffed in the wheel wells, they’ll rub on the fenders sooner. What I’m I missing lol.

You would be missing bump stop extension. It's purpose is to limit up travel just before parts crash into other parts.

Please elaborate on how a steel tube is poorly designed lol. I can understand the bushings (like I mentioned being the weak link) being poorly designed, and I’ll agree with that. I do not like them. But a steel tube itself, unless it’s breaking, cannot be poorly designed. If we get into needing angled arms for crazy lifts and clearing 40s ... well that’s a different story. Flex is limited by the bump stops, shocks, tire size, and sway bars. Never heard anyone say control arms limit flex. Unless they’re hitting mounting brackets.

The factory control arms are an example of a simple, thoughtful elegant design. Control arms with their bushings/joints need to allow the suspension to move through it's full range of motion and articulation as dictated by the shocks, as well as the lateral motion created by the track bar. In addition to the range of motion allowed by the rubber cleavite bushings, the stamped steel stock arms are designed to twist while the axle articulates.

Rigid tube control arms, like Skyjacker, eliminate this inherit ability to twist and place that misalignment stress entirely on the bushing. This is why the rigid tube style control arm has a history of tearing off control arm mounts. They are effectively a downgrade from what the factory provided.

Once the modified shock travels go beyond the stock the stock travels and you need to change pinion angles, then other control arm options with a greater range of motion and adjustability begin to become necessary.


They’ve been around for a while, no? When did they turn into a bad brand? Honestly, since I started on this forum about a month ago, I’ve never heard trash spoken about “SJl and Quadratec. On a serious note, what has Quadratec done? I haven’t bought parts from them since winter time 2012. Never had bad experiences.

I am unfamiliar with SJ's reputation in the leaf spring world, but their linked coil spring suspension offerings are pretty clueless. They are popular because they are inexpensive and they have good marketing jibberish.

Okay. I’ll further explain this ..... as a vehicle weighs more, you’ll need a beefier set of control arms, yes? At this basic level he’s going to, I don’t think he should be worrying about the intricacy of a set of control arms. Got forbid he gets crappy designed bushings. It’s a simple replacement. He’s looking for a cheap way to lift his Jeep ... in 4 years, I’d say it’s reasonable to expect to change out control arm bushings if this Jeep does more than highway driving. UNLESS he springs for a pricier set. BUT, I have been out of the loop for a while with Jeeping. I’m sure newer and better products have come about in the past 5-9 years.

This is why many of us are advocating for the factory control arms. They often exceed expectations. :)
 
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@jjvw, thank you for reminding me about the twist aspect. Now that I think about it, it how I determined my control arms on my truck need replacing lol.

Very good info. and insight here I was missing. It was a pleasure!!!


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