12V crimp / solder connectors & power distribution block

MikekiM

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Knee deep in electrical stuff at the moment. Wiring aux front & rear lights, OBA and CB.

I'm going to need upwards of 70 -80 total crimp connections between t-splices, male & female spade connections, butt connections... Six dash mounted switches, relays, power trigger and hot leads. Mostly 12-18 gauge but also need 10 gauge for hot power.

Looking for recommendations for quality crimp connections.. something better than what I find at AutoZone, ACE or HD. would like integrated heat shrink and though I have never used the ones that have solder built in, that would be useful if it works.

Also need a six circuit distribution block.

Suggestions?
 
I've been using this crimper for the past few years for my smaller gauge stuff. Pretty sure this is the correct part number for the common red, blue, yellow terminals, but you might double check me. Ordering terminals is a bit of a pain at first, looking over the hundreds of various styles and sizes, but they are a higher quality than what you'll find around town.

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5...OaIcCCEIu8tpw2rarKLVtWmLq7aUv3qQaAhxBEALw_wcB
 
Get quality crimp-only connectors and use a good quality ratcheting crimper that will assure it is crimped properly. Do not solder them which can cause stress risers in the stranded wiring.
 
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I prefer non insulated terminals myself. It can be a pain having to remember to put the heat shrink on the wire before crimping both sides but you get better at that. I feel I can get a stronger crimp connection with those and really crimping down tight with the crimper. I use Thomas and betts but there are plenty of other crimpers to do the job too. The key is that for non insulated terminals you need a non insulated terminal crimper, and vice versa.

I don’t solder really anything as it’s a pain vs a crimp and doesn’t seem proper for stranded wire. I have never had a failed crimped connection my way. I buy terminals and such at waytek or delcity.
 
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Don't feel too bad about soldering the connections. It is what Chrysler suggests when doing repairs to the factory wiring in the factory service manual. There are also several TSBs issued that specify using solder to add components to the factory wiring. Everybody has an opinion on the subject, I'll leave mine out but people shouldn't suggest it's somehow bad when Jeep specifically recommends it.
 
Don't feel too bad about soldering the connections. It is what Chrysler suggests when doing repairs to the factory wiring in the factory service manual. There are also several TSBs issued that specify using solder to add components to the factory wiring. Everybody has an opinion on the subject, I'll leave mine out but people shouldn't suggest it's somehow bad when Jeep specifically recommends it.
I can see soldering only in SOME situations and I have soldered many thousands of joints over many years when I was in the industry or building electronic gear. However I would stick to crimping 100% of new connectors. You won't find soldered wiring connectors in new cars, Jeeps, aircraft, or space vehicles. The practice of soldering connectors was abandoned years ago and having done so upped the reliability of them.
 
Of course there are some soldered connections like leading to circuit boards.
No, there are several soldered heat shrink connections in the harness where they combine grounds, a lot of the battery terminals (new style) are soldered on, and a couple of others. We and others dig out the soldered connections in the harness since they are the most problematic and likely to fail.
 
I have had good luck over the years with the crimp connectors that have the heat shrink built in, not the ones that include solder just the heat shrink. It says something to me that both GM and Chrysler send that style with most of their pigtail kits.
 
In my experience butt connections are usually soldered while component connections are crimped.
 
Thank you all!

Already have the ratcheting crimper for insulated connectors, and a neat Facom stripper.

Decided on the insulated heat shrink crimped connectors. Bought a lot of 150 female spade, which I need the most of and an assortment pack of various other ends.

Found a good 10 circuit distribution block with a single power feed, 10 out with LED indicators.


Now, where to mount all of this. I have to mount the distribution block and three or four relays and all the accompanying wires.
 
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If your TJ does not have ABS you can mount the block on the flat surface behind the fender well on the driver's side. That's where the factory places the ABS pump.
 
I don’t have ABS. I was going to use the tray to mount the OBA compressor. I’ll look at how much room there is. Thank you for all the help!!!


Unrelated…. I made another post dedicated to pic request for mounting locations for relays and the distribution block. It was deleted. Why would such an innocuous post be deleted?
 
Unrelated…. I made another post dedicated to pic request for mounting locations for relays and the distribution block. It was deleted. Why would such an innocuous post be deldeleted
Look again, I'm pretty sure I just posted in there.
 
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