Barnett Diff Covers

Short answer is the rocks tend to tear up the rear driveshaft a bit more than the front. We don't need the strength of the high pinion in the front, we need the fucking driveshaft up out of the rocks as far as possible. If that works in the front, the same philosophy works in the rear only moreso. The higher you get the rear driveshaft, the longer it will survive in JV.
Understood but Currie apparently said a HP44 in the rear wont work due to oiling issues... I do still drive to and from JV.

a 9" or 10" is a little out of my price range given what else i want to do at the moment.
 
Short answer is the rocks tend to tear up the rear driveshaft a bit more than the front. We don't need the strength of the high pinion in the front, we need the fucking driveshaft up out of the rocks as far as possible. If that works in the front, the same philosophy works in the rear only moreso. The higher you get the rear driveshaft, the longer it will survive in JV.
And i am not buying a semi float rotated 60 because i am not gay.
 
  • Face Palm
Reactions: 707kevin
High pinion axle.
The only reason to do an axle swap if you play out there is to move the pinion up. Unless you're not paying attention.
I understand what you're working to accomplish - I want to move my DS higher, but in the common build around the forums I'm used to seeing Dana 44 rear and HP30 front. I'm curious of specific options to move the rear pinion higher, I've long known I want to but haven't spent time to research the ways to do it.

Though the conversation has since evolved around 60s, which confirms the direction that I've seen on the bigger builds.
 
I dont personally know which will be more of an issue with stretch fuel tank clearance. A rotated 60 vs a hi9 or hi10.
 
I understand what you're working to accomplish - I want to move my DS higher, but in the common build around the forums I'm used to seeing Dana 44 rear and HP30 front. I'm curious of specific options to move the rear pinion higher, I've long known I want to but haven't spent time to research the ways to do it.

Though the conversation has since evolved around 60s, which confirms the direction that I've seen on the bigger builds.
The better answer would be a Tru-high 9 in a banjo housing that has a skid on the lower bolts and is shaved. I don't believe you can make a banjo housing strong enough at tube to center junction to last. It will break there. That leaves a Fab 9 or similar and the big gusset shape from the edges of the third to the tubes is a lot of real estate to drag through the rocks.

You might be able to make an upgraded JK 44 front housing live if you are nice to it, but I don't know that they can solve the oiling issues for the pinion bearings and I don't know who would build it. We tried to get one built, couldn't make it happen. I think the oiling issue is able to be solved, I don't know if anyone would do it since it requires an external oil pump.

I do seem to recall that the oiling issue is similar for all 44's but I never dove off deep enough to get the particulars since it is a very narrow range answer. It may be only on a few, only the JK or just in general.

That leaves the HP 60 and all of this is centered around building for 35's that are going to play hard in the rocks and drive long distances on the street. The 60 is overkill, but it solves the problems. Something like the RJ 60 with the rotated cover, bolt bosses for a mini truss for the upper control arm mounts and a replaceable skid on the bottom with a very small footprint is the lesser of most evils.

I do think if the oiling issue could be mitigated, the JK 44 upgraded center would make a very good rear 35" tire axle, it does not solve the problem of the rocks chewing off the lower gasket surface which is very common in JV. I've seen 10-15 Dana 44's ruined that way out there over the years. I never see anyone do anything like weld on strips and hard facing until it is too late.
 
How many gays prefer the 60 rotated or not?

I bet they're more rare than the hen's golden tooth.
It’s an excellent axle but my comment was directed towards a TJ width semi float 60. Too much axle for 35s.
 
Mine gets me the 1200+ miles to and from the trails if needed, I'm ok with that. ;)
I didn’t say it was junk…

I’m after the most wheelbase I can get with a stretch tank and the best ground clearance.
 
It’s an excellent axle but my comment was directed towards a TJ width semi float 60. Too much axle for 35s.
It is normally but you have a range of problems to solve. No other rear cover axle will not eat up lower bolt holes out there and if you want to talk gay, install some bullshit skid. Unless it is welded wear strips, you may as well put up a kiosk at Main Beach in Laguna and give out 1 dollar blowjobs to all the happy little boys that wander by. BTW- the dollar is just to pay for the rental on the kiosk.
 
It is normally but you have a range of problems to solve. No other rear cover axle will not eat up lower bolt holes out there and if you want to talk gay, install some bullshit skid. Unless it is welded wear strips, you may as well put up a kiosk at Main Beach in Laguna and give out 1 dollar blowjobs to all the happy little boys that wander by. BTW- the dollar is just to pay for the rental on the kiosk.
There is a lot more meat on the pumpkin on a currie 44 housing.

The other option is replace the factory 44 housing every few years. I could do that 3-4 times for the cost of any aftermarket rear axle.

It does not solve driveshaft issues though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fouledplugs