NV 241OR Rubicon RocTrac transfer case swap into non-Rubicon TJ

Reviving this one again.

I’m getting around to doing the swap and getting the remainder of my parts rounded up.

The yokes on the 231 output shafts have the same splines and shaft size however the 241 uses a stepped seal surface so the 231 seal should fix that.

Is there any reason one couldn’t use the 231 yokes on the 241? I have double carden drive shafts so I’m sure the 231 yokes aren’t stock.
 
Take a look at my previous post. The counterbore won't be there on the 231 yoke. I asked Advanced Adapters about it and they confirmed it won't work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 01TJ-Blues
Claytone said:
Take a look at my previous post. The counterbore won't be there on the 231 yoke. I asked Advanced Adapters about it and they confirmed it won't work.
Click to expand...
I decided to just have a new 1330 ujoint double carden built that will use the Rubicon balancer damper-flange so that running it as it’s originally designed. Plus the balancer allegedly is a wise choice to keep per @mrblaine and Gerald-Savvy. I appreciate the insight.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Claytone
Small update, I’ll post more as I go along with my swap to this thread.

So far the wiring info from previous posts has been helpful. The 2001 I’m working on however has different wire colors for the speedo drive so I’ll have to figure that part out. Hopefully it’s plug and play but I doubt I’ll get that lucky.

I’m also changing over the Savvy cable shifter from the 231 to the 241. Gerald lined me out on the bracket and the cable end to covert the kit so that should be too difficult.

I’m running a 1” MML, 1.25” body lift and have the UCF ultra high clearance skid. The 241 is in place and I have pretty good space everywhere except in the pic below, it’s probably enough but I may have to dimple the tub a little.

92CD0EF8-2705-4DA7-BD2C-9AA9988C9BB1.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Claytone, freedom_in_4low and Longwhitejeep
The 4wd light switch airtex referenced didn't work for my swap. The switch itself worked but for some reason it seemed to be a mm or too short to work correctly when screwed in and plugged up. It worked when I manually engaged the switch by hand but wouldnt work when installed in the case. I swapped it for a Dorman I believe and it worked and has been working for over year now without issue. Just something to keep in mind when your wiring that switch up.

Mine was an 05 though fwiw.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 01TJ-Blues
Longwhitejeep said:
The 4wd light switch airtex referenced didn't work for my swap. The switch itself worked but for some reason it seemed to be a mm or too short to work correctly when screwed in and plugged up. It worked when I manually engaged the switch by hand but wouldnt work when installed in the case. I swapped it for a Dorman I believe and it worked and has been working for over year now without issue. Just something to keep in mind when your wiring that switch up.

Mine was an 05 though fwiw.
Click to expand...
I've also used a Dorman, 600-506, on two swaps now and it has worked both times.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H99MYM/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9MZIO/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep and 01TJ-Blues
Ok. So now speedo wiring. Below is what I have and am needing to match up but the schematic I see doesn’t show either of these color combos. Mine is a 2001, the 241 is out of a 2005.

If anyone can tell me which to match up I’d be super appreciative.

FC0B473A-147E-4623-A4A9-8266969359D9.jpeg


2DD24C12-6948-41FE-AA4A-04DEF3B80DD7.jpeg
 
Actually the other end of the 241 plug is the correct schematic description. However, the 2001 wire colors don’t match so still needing some help with this part.

7E4A3DF7-C8F0-4F32-91A6-9FFE25E2D5C1.jpeg
 
I plugged my 241 harness into my Speedohealer into my factory 2001 TJ harness and it works fine. I didn't cut or splice any part of the factory harness (or the 241 harness).
 
  • Like
Reactions: 01TJ-Blues
01TJ-Blues said:
Actually the other end of the 241 plug is the correct schematic description. However, the 2001 wire colors don’t match so still needing some help with this part.

View attachment 320721
Click to expand...
I'm a little confused here. Are you slicing for the 4wd switch or the speedometer? This is the speedometer, which, like @S/C-HD2002 I simply plugged into a speedohealer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 01TJ-Blues
Irun said:
I'm a little confused here. Are you slicing for the 4wd switch or the speedometer? This is the speedometer, which, like @S/C-HD2002 I simply plugged into a speedohealer.
Click to expand...
I got the 4WD light working no problem but when I plug in the speedo and spin the DS I don’t get a reading. I assumed the wiring needed modified based on a couple of other instructional posts. I think I’ll hold off until I get the driveshaft in from Tom Woods and see if it reads when actually driving it. I need to get a Speedohealer ordered up anyway.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep and Irun
01TJ-Blues said:
I got the 4WD light working no problem but when I plug in the speedo and spin the DS I don’t get a reading. I assumed the wiring needed modified based on a couple of other instructional posts. I think I’ll hold off until I get the driveshaft in from Tom Woods and see if it reads when actually driving it. I need to get a Speedohealer ordered up anyway.
Click to expand...
Good call. All the ones I've done were plug and play, with the programming of course. If you haven't seen it, here's a little write-up I did on the programming the speedohealer.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...dometer-using-speedohealer-by-healtech.30718/
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep and 01TJ-Blues
  • Like
Reactions: Longwhitejeep and Irun
Savvy cable shifter 231-241 update.

This change is pretty easy, Gerald sent me the 241 bracket that mounts to the T-case, it’s different than the 231 because the 241 is so much larger. He also sent a quick release ball socket and cable end along with a bushing that slips into the t-case shift lever as well as lock nut and washer. Simply pop out the green hard rubber grommet where the stock linkage would normally hook up, place the bushing and ball into the lever and tighten it down with the provided washer and lock nut.

The only struggle I had was that the cable must be adjusted to FULL slack and the cable ends darn near maxed out as well. Typical adjustment fiddling so the selector works in all gears and that part is done. I’ll add some photos of the changes shortly.
 
01TJ-Blues said:
Savvy cable shifter 231-241 update.

This change is pretty easy, Gerald sent me the 241 bracket that mounts to the T-case, it’s different than the 231 because the 241 is so much larger. He also sent a quick release ball socket and cable end along with a bushing that slips into the t-case shift lever as well as lock nut and washer. Simply pop out the green hard rubber grommet where the stock linkage would normally hook up, place the bushing and ball into the lever and tighten it down with the provided washer and lock nut.

The only struggle I had was that the cable must be adjusted to FULL slack and the cable ends darn near maxed out as well. Typical adjustment fiddling so the selector works in all gears and that part is done. I’ll add some photos of the changes shortly.
Click to expand...
The main difference is not the size, it is that the shift lever on the side of the case points up for one and down for the other.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 01TJ-Blues and Longwhitejeep
Top Bottom
Back