Rear Track Bar Contacting Fuel Tank Skid Bolt

[Halsey]

I attempted to search for this issue before creating this post. I apologize in advance if this has been answered somewhere.

I have a 2003 TJ with a 2.5” lift, no SYE or adjustable control arms. Has an aftermarket rear track bar bracket, axle side. Appears to have the OE rear track bar.
When driving through big dips on or off road, I get a loud clunk noise. I looked under the Jeep and found the rear track bar is contacting one stud for the fuel tank skid plate and has worn a groove in the track bar and buggered up the threads on the stud.

Would an aftermarket rear track bar solve this? Or would it be easier to eliminate that stud/nut? I’d rather not add bump stops for this.

Thanks!

 

[macleanflood]

There are two axle side brackets...one straight and one with a tilt for clearance...which one do you have? Also possible you don't have an add on bracket... photos would help!

-Mac

 

[SvtLdr]

If the OP is running the OE track bar then it must be the straight raised bracket.

Yes, an adjustable track bar would help because you could eliminate the bracket, lower the mounting point and add length to the bar in order to center the axle.

 

[someguysjeep]

you could eliminate the bracket

why? the more level the bar is the more efficiently the axle moves. where the center of this bar sits has suspension influence so does the angle it's carried at.

I looked under the Jeep and found the rear track bar is contacting one stud for the fuel tank skid plate and has worn a groove in the track bar and buggered up the threads on the stud.

pics? of the riser bracket, the contact on the bar and what its contacting on the skid.

 

[Halsey]

I wasn’t able to get a good picture of the mark on the track bar. I can’t fit my phone in between the tank skid and the bar. It’s about a 2 inch long section where it’s worn down significantly. Probably about 1/4 inch.

 

[someguysjeep]

I wasn’t able to get a good picture of the mark on the track bar. I can’t fit my phone in between the tank skid and the bar. It’s about a 2 inch long section where it’s worn down significantly. Probably about 1/4 inch. View attachment 323492View attachment 323493

your barely clippin the edge and the riser is straight. so 1st would be get yourself an angled riser.
then if the tB is compromised you have 2 options. if the axle is centered in the riser with a stock bar you can find another stock bar. if it's not centered you can use the adjustable to correct it since the bar is being replaced anyways.

 

[SvtLdr]

why? the more level the bar is the more efficiently the axle moves. where the center of this bar sits has suspension influence so does the angle it's carried at.

I was under the impression that a rear track bar bracket was a cost effective solution to relocating the axle after lifting the suspension while re-using the OE track bar.

If this is the case then why don't we add riser brackets to the front track bar?

 

[someguysjeep]

I was under the impression that a rear track bar bracket was a cost effective solution to relocating the axle after lifting the suspension while re-using the OE track bar.

If this is the case then why don't we add riser brackets to the front track bar?

front operates different it has to keep inline with the drag link for steering. when you deviate you get bump steer.
TB's are 5th control links they just work they other direction, but they swing the same, on an arc if the link hangs low the action/motion is increased. if the link hangs level the action/motion is tighter. and the center of that bar effects roll center too, IIRC.

now we can add 2" in back with the common riser and we could and more for higher lifts but at some point we begin to negate the up travel space we created if we go to high with it.

 

[OldBuzzard]

An angled track bar bracket is for use with adjustable control arms, where you tilt the axle to align with an SYE and double cardan driveshaft. For a 2.5" lift, you don't really need the bracket. Sure, it makes the track bar sit more level, so the angles are better. But it also will hit your tub (and wiring and gas lines if they go right above it) if you don't add some extra bump stop. You have to cycle your suspension without springs to find out if it hits. And it might be why your TB is hitting the tank.

An adjustable track bar might help. Or not. First, I would remove that bracket to see what happens.

 

[someguysjeep]

I would remove that bracket to see what happens.

this is what happens if you remove the riser. the blue line is the side to side axle motion how much do you prefer?

 

[OldBuzzard]

I prefer not to reduce my up travel by adding another couple of inches of bump stop to protect the tub and wiring. A 4" lift will need that bracket. On a 2" lift it's a compromise between a little more axle side motion and way more bump stop. After cycling my suspension (2" lift) and seeing the choices, I chose to leave out the bracket.

 

[someguysjeep]

2" lift and 2" riser what relationship changed? did it hit the tub or wires b4 it was lifted?

you can get away with not using 1 at 2" of lift it's similar to a 2" riser and 4" lift compromises happen , but if they don't have to why stress the sys with avoidable situations.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Cycling the suspension without the riser showed that the OEM setup would hit the tub before hitting the bump stop. What changed is that we're having to fix engineering mistakes from the factory. At least on my Jeep, hitting a bump hard enough to bottom the suspension on the driver side will mash the fuel pump cable into the tub, and will dent the tub by about 1/8".

 

[someguysjeep]

Cycling the suspension without the riser showed that the OEM setup would hit the tub before hitting the bump stop. What changed is that we're having to fix engineering mistakes from the factory. At least on my Jeep, hitting a bump hard enough to bottom the suspension on the driver side will mash the fuel pump cable into the tub, and will dent the tub by about 1/8".

how short are the shocks? a shock that fits the space should not collapse near enough to allow that. they have to be figured in also.

 

[Halsey]

your barely clippin the edge and the riser is straight. so 1st would be get yourself an angled riser.
then if the tB is compromised you have 2 options. if the axle is centered in the riser with a stock bar you can find another stock bar. if it's not centered you can use the adjustable to correct it since the bar is being replaced anyways.

I was looking at the JKS angled track bar bracket. I noticed it said for CV style driveshafts. I wasn’t sure if it would cause the rear track bar bushing to be bound up without also rotating the axle. I would love to solve this with a simple bracket. I also found a couple instances of the Metal Cloak bar solving similar issues. Would it be wise to replace my bracket and bar with the Metal Cloak adjustable track bar with the JKS angled bracket?

 

[someguysjeep]

1st is the angled bracket. that alone will move the axle end just a bit forward and possibly be all you need. get that mount it and try it with the current bar see if that fixes this problem.

next after that, if the TB is no longer usable ( damaged) you can find a stock replacement.

if the current set up does not hold the axle centered, then you can invest in an adjustable bar to correct that.

it's all little steps to tweek the sys to be as optimal as possible with minimal compromises. go at them 1 at a time or things become complicated fast. a lot goin on and we have to tiptoe to not disrupt what isn't angry.

 

[OldBuzzard]

1st is the angled bracket.

I don't think you'll be able to get a stock track bar, with its fixed joints, into an angled bracket. The frame bolt is horizontal, and the track bar joints are both aligned. I could be wrong, you might have a much bigger hammer than I do.

how short are the shocks? a shock that fits the space should not collapse near enough to allow that. they have to be figured in also.

If you're using your shocks as bump stops, you're doing something wrong. The shocks shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop hits.

 

[someguysjeep]

The shocks shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop hits.

how much bump to keep that from happening? doesn't matter how you wanna set that up. it's still has to fit,

how short of a shock did you use to put your stock TB bracket into your tub?

 

[gasiorv]

To the original question: If you have a 1/4" deep gouge in your track bar, I would replace it before it develops a crack and then breaks. If your replacing it, replace it with an adjustable track bar and get rid of the raised bracket and install back at the OEM location on the axle side. Cycle and see if that gets rid of your interference. If there is no interference, you are good to go. The raised track bar mount does help in some ways, but it also induces a higher load on the OEM bracket where it attaches to the axle due to the increased leverage and it will eventually crack the OEM bracket due to these higher loads. Do a search on this forum for upper control arm bracket cracks and you will find it is a common issue.

You could probably test before buying by just moving your OEM track bar down to the OEM location and cycling to see if there is interference. Yes your axle will be pulled slightly towards the passenger side and the adjustable track bar that you purchase may have a slightly different bend profile, but it will give you a decent look at the clearances available and possibly a better feeling about purchasing a few hundred dollar part.

 

[TurboTJ]

The angled bracket may move the track bar forward enough that it won’t hit the gas tank skid, but it sticks up even higher than the straight bracket. Without additional bump stop, it will hit the tub.

I have a JKS adjustable track bar, and the angled bracket with a rotated pinion. With 1.5 inch of additional bump stop the track bar still slightly touches the fuel tank skid and the bracket touches the tub. I have moved the gas tank wiring to prevent it from being cut.