Check out my build thread "Impact Jack". We pieced together Hydro Assist that works fantastic.
I'm glad it is working for you. For anyone else following along that may consider doing their version using yours as a blueprint, I would encourage them to consider that option very carefully.
There are sound rules for good steering. You can sometimes get by and wind up with a system that works well if you violate some or all of those rules, or you can wind up with something that irritates the crap out of you every time you turn the steering wheel. You violated practically every rule so your assessment that it is fantastic is somewhat surprising.
Before you get your feelings hurt, don't. I didn't make the rules, I'm just aware of them. To put that in perspective, I just spent 10 hours on a CJ that was done a year ago by the owner using a CJ specific kit he bought from PSC. He installed it, if you tried to turn the steering wheel faster than one would in normal steering on the trail or street, it would jerk and lock up. He messed with it for a year, removed all the parts and made PSC send him all new parts. He installed them, same result. He took each part out and took it to local shops to have it tested, verified as good, put it back in and did the next part. Made all new lines, installed them, same result. Over and over until finally he listened to the 20 folks who told him to call me. I had him drop it off, we went over it, checked a few things and then got to work fixing all the things he fixed.
We removed all the drilled fittings he installed in tight places. Notably, we swapped out the cooler for a 3" shorter one so we could plumb in bent tube fittings in place of the drilled versions he used.
We removed the -6 return hoses and installed -8 to reduce restriction on the return side back to the PSC reservoir.
We removed his -5 pressure hoses with -6 ends and replaced them with Eaton -6 hose and ends. That is a big one since lots of folks believe that -6 is -6 and it isn't. Commercial air brake hose is rated for power steering pressures. It is 5/16" bore and uses special fittings that are 3/8" JIC which interchanges with -6 AN but the flow is significantly reduced.
We changed the routing some to shorten up the lengths and reduce restriction.
Took us about 8 hours to fix it and build all new hoses and lines with the exception of the -12 feed line and cylinder lines. When we got done I had him come by and test it to see if it satisfied what he thought he wanted out of it. He was thrilled.
His lack of experience and understanding the rules caused him a year of grief, serious anger with PSC, and lots of wasted time and money. All we did is go back to what we know ALWAYS works, nothing more, just the basic rules we don't violate.
Sometimes you can violate them and it will all work just fine, the challenge is when it doesn't work like you want it to and can't figure out why.
In your case- small pulleys are out there, they shorten the lifespan of pumps because they don't like being overrevved.
Drilled fittings are always a no-no.
Drilling out the orifice in the pump pressure relief is well known. We don't do it because the flow is limited by the feed hole in the plastic reservoir. We can't always depend on that keeping up with the demand a cylinder and larger bore box places on the system.
If I don't have to modify the 3rd bolt sleeve in the frame to mount a gear, I'm always better off, I've done many, I'd encourage folks to seriously contemplate that as an option before they do it. The mounting bolt sleeve ends have to be within .005 in the same plane of each other or that can flex the case on the steering gear when the bolts are tightened and over time will ruin the steering gear. When that is done, it is a bitch to figure out so don't take the accuracy of that mod lightly.
Radiator style coolers are tough to use and add restriction. When you get in trouble, consider the straight through heat sink style, far less restriction.
Never weld the tabs to the tie rod. Use a clamp style so adjustability to set or change the toe setting isn't lost or even just set up the cylinder far easier. Also be aware that the cylinder will be rotating the tie rod to the limit of the rod ends misalignment once the steering wheel moves off center and king pin axis kicks in. The only place the cylinder is parallel is when the wheels are straight ahead.
Offset rod ends are always a bad idea. What most miss is when they come under load, the offset angle depends on NOT bending the tie rod to transmit that force to turn the wheels. Put another way, if you force it too hard, it will bend the tie or rod end threaded shank since the force is no longer in a straight line with the tie rod.
EDIT- in case anyone is wondering why there are two times, 8 and 10 hours, it took 8 to fix it. The other two were removing the grill and winch plate with winch to access the lines and top of steering gear and reinstall them along with adding a 6 pin connector set to the grill harness for future repairs.