Road to 33's and now to 35's: order of updates?

As things progress, thought I'd post an update.

Well I have desires and thoughts around doing the work myself... yet for me to do it means a long process... and need space... I could handle the time, but I've not space right now with winter coming up... so started talking to local shops. Decided to work with TORC Motorsports.

The current plan... In a couple weeks head into the shop to get body work sorted. Then on to the fun stuff. Right now we're talking about the Metal Cloak 3.5" short arm long travel setup with the RockSport shocks and a 1.25" BL. Doing a 8.8 swap, gear the whole thing at 4.56, adding in ARB Lockers front and rear (Originally looked at Eaton but can't seem to get that for 4.56), SYE and drive shaft upgrades. I'm sure I'm missing some miscellaneous items, but that is the gist. Then I can put on the 35's or so I hope.

This is a good plan. I would suggest going straight to 35s for your build. I made the mistake of building around the plan of only having 33s and no SYE, smaller lift, but the 8.8 swap (for me... every Jeep is different) led me to need more lift (I had previously the 2.5" OME lift) to more easily clear the gas tank skid that the bigger 8.8 diff cover was hitting. This then led to SYE, DC driveshaft, adjustable control arms and 4" lift. From there, I was pretty much more or less ready for 35s so I went ahead and added a 1.25" BL, Big Brake Kit from Blaine and Currie steering. I had regeared to 4.10 when doing the axle swap and lockers (again with the plan to only run 33s), so I am now a bit under-geared.

Save yourself the extra expenses and build to 35s. That is, at least, my opinion from my experience.
 
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Thank you @Jerry I hear you on the axle swap. What pushed me that way was that working with the shop the cost is about a wash and I get a beefier axle and disk brakes... so I was thinking why not at that point.

The people here and at the shop pretty much convinced to me just to go the 35" route. So I chose 4.56 based on your recommendations I've ready throughout the forums :)

I'll talk with the shop around the Currie vs Metal Cloak. The price diff isn't that much, yet they said I didn't need to spend the extra plus shocks to meet my needs.

Thank you for the info on the ATF level. Did not know about the running and in neutral.

The 8.8 is a fat, heavy axle that doesn't really fit a TJ. And Metalcloak stuff is garbage.
 
The 8.8 is a fat, heavy axle that doesn't really fit a TJ. And Metalcloak stuff is garbage.

Can you elaborate on/educate me why it is garbage? As for the 8.8 I've read lots and seem pretty "common", so what do you mean by "doesn't really fit"? If you mean bolt on, sure I get you.
 
Can you elaborate on/educate me why it is garbage? As for the 8.8 I've read lots and seem pretty "common", so what do you mean by "doesn't really fit"? If you mean bolt on, sure I get you.

The 8.8 is too narrow, the center section is further off to one side than the Dana 35/Dana 44. And the center section is physically larger than any stock TJ axle. It was a common and possibly worthwhile swap in the YJ days. But since the advent of the Super 35 kit, it doesn't make any sense anymore.

Metalcloak built it's reputation on a huge pile of false marketing claims. Their bushings are squishy and tear apart when actually used in high travel scenarios. They allow for a lot of unwanted suspension joint movements. And they contribute to a general wallowy feeling while driving. That is just the bushings. The rest is it's own thread, of which their are plenty of. 😉

Honestly, if TORC is suggesting any of this, it calls into question the quality of shop they are and what kind of rigs they are building.
 
The 8.8 is too narrow, the center section is further off to one side than the Dana 35/Dana 44. And the center section is physically larger than any stock TJ axle. It was a common and possibly worthwhile swap in the YJ days. But since the advent of the Super 35 kit, it doesn't make any sense anymore.

Metalcloak built it's reputation on a huge pile of false marketing claims. Their bushings are squishy and tear apart when actually used in high travel scenarios. They allow for a lot of unwanted suspension joint movements. And they contribute to a general wallowy feeling while driving. That is just the bushings. The rest is it's own thread, of which their are plenty of. 😉

Honestly, if TORC is suggesting any of this, it calls into question the quality of shop they are and what kind of rigs they are building.
X2 exactly.
 
What pushed me that way was that working with the shop the cost is about a wash and I get a beefier axle and disk brakes... so I was thinking why not at that point.

I don't think you're going to find much love for the 8.8 here. I've looked into an axle swap too and had the 8.8 recommended by some non Jeep people, but after researching I've come to the conclusion that a "super 35" like @Jerry Bransford linked or a dana 44 would be much better than an 8.8. The 8.8 would likely be out of an explorer with a 28 spline count, which is less/weaker than the 30 spline of the super 35 or dana 44. Your stock 35 has a 27 spline axle.

As for the brakes, is there a reason you want disc brakes? If it's because you hate working on drums, I get it, that's my reason for not wanting rear drums. But disc are not always better. They deal with repeated stops and hot use better, but drums have a better initial bite and holding power.
 
As for the brakes, is there a reason you want disc brakes? If it's because you hate working on drums, I get it, that's my reason for not wanting rear drums. But disc are not always better. They deal with repeated stops and hot use better, but drums have a better initial bite and holding power.

I am not a fan of working on drums, so it was an added bonus with the swap... no other reason than that.
 
The 8.8 is too narrow, the center section is further off to one side than the Dana 35/Dana 44. And the center section is physically larger than any stock TJ axle. It was a common and possibly worthwhile swap in the YJ days. But since the advent of the Super 35 kit, it doesn't make any sense anymore.

Metalcloak built it's reputation on a huge pile of false marketing claims. Their bushings are squishy and tear apart when actually used in high travel scenarios. They allow for a lot of unwanted suspension joint movements. And they contribute to a general wallowy feeling while driving. That is just the bushings. The rest is it's own thread, of which their are plenty of. 😉

Honestly, if TORC is suggesting any of this, it calls into question the quality of shop they are and what kind of rigs they are building.

Interesting and informative, thank you for this.
 
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I will leave you to take all the above info and soak it in.

You mention a question of frame rust. I would make damn sure it is solid before moving any further. Have someone or you put a boroscope through the entire frame to check, they can be bought pretty cheap on Amazon. There are threads here about cleaning out the scale inside the frame and you can only then, really see what is lurking. Do you have rust holes in the top of the fenders? by the front corner of the doors or rear? Those are tell tale signs there is more rust than you think.
 
Interesting and informative, thank you for this.

The reason I have nothing good to say about the 8.8 on a TJ is similar to the reason I dislike Metalcloak. It has everything to do with my want and encouragement of good design and proper function.
 
I will leave you to take all the above info and soak it in.

You mention a question of frame rust. I would make damn sure it is solid before moving any further. Have someone or you put a boroscope through the entire frame to check, they can be bought pretty cheap on Amazon. There are threads here about cleaning out the scale inside the frame and you can only then, really see what is lurking. Do you have rust holes in the top of the fenders? by the front corner of the doors or rear? Those are tell tale signs there is more rust than you think.

I guess I forgot to mention that... yeah, had the frame looked at... it's in getting the rear passenger portion replaced right now. At that point should be good to go.
 
Arkansas here… I’ve been from the south to the north of the state, the U.S. Forest service fire roads of the Ouachita mountains and the hills and valleys of the the Ozark Mountains and I have yet to find a road or trail that I WANT to drive on that I can’t make it… my rig is a 4 banger on a 2.5” sl with a 1.25 body lift and 33” tires…common sense plays a role on the path I take… my Jeep is my daily driver and I try to remember that when I’m out, unless my father in law is with me, where I have to remind him that “we have to drive this sombitch home”…