Tips for removing 22 year old body bolts?

MikekiM

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East of Montauk, NY
Need to remove the three main body bolts on each side. I've been dousing them with PB Blaster for a week, but since they are upside down, and the rubber bushings are in the way nothing seems to be creeping into/onto the threads. Tried removing them with a breaker bar but wasn't getting more than a mm of movement. Fearful I am going to snap the bolt.

Any suggestions before I bring the Jeep to my local shop and pay them to break them?
 
Drill small holes from the top and squirt your penetrating oil in there and let soak.
 
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Before loosening, try tightening a little bit. Then loosen. If you feel resistance, tighten again. The idea is to try and clear the threads of corrosion as you go.

I had to do this on mine with a couple body mount bolts years ago. It's tedious, but it can work.

You can also access the bolt threads through the open end of the torque box at the rear wheel behind the plastic wheel well liner. Put a hose on the spray can to reach the middle and front bolts.
 
Drill small holes from the top and squirt your penetrating oil in there and let soak.

Before loosening, try tightening a little bit. Then loosen. If you feel resistance, tighten again. The idea is to try and clear the threads of corrosion as you go.

I had to do this on mine with a couple body mount bolts years ago. It's tedious, but it can work.

You can also access the bolt threads through the open end of the torque box at the rear wheel behind the plastic wheel well liner. Put a hose on the spray can to reach the middle and front bolts.

Great suggestions.
Thank you.
 
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I’m in Minnesota and removed all the body mount bolts a few months ago without breaking any. I used ACDelco penetrating fluid and a propane torch.

Once they break loose, apply heat again then tighten slightly and loosen - Keep repeating until the resistance to loosen the bolts is minimal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I2H55U/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
The tighten loosen method is easily the best advice on here. Jerry is also spot-on with your choice of lubricant.

My method is basically a combination of the above: I tighten to break the rust on the exposed side. Loosen ever so slightly until I feel tension. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. At some point, which will be later than sooner on a body bolt, you will have fresh thread exposed where it just came out of the hole. Spray liberally with a penetrant and tighten the bolt all the way down again to work it through the threads. Loosen until it gets hard. Add more penetrant and re-tighten all the way to distribute through the threads.

As mentioned, it is tedious, but I haven't snapped a bolt since I started using this method many years ago. Except for the one rear upper shock where I got impatient and tried to power through the rust. Bad plan.

d-
 
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Stop using PB-Blaster which is the least effective penetrant of them all. It's barely better than WD-40 which is not even a penetrant. Switch to Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or Break Free.
Good news is I am using Liquid Wrench
Stop using PB-Blaster which is the least effective penetrant of them all. It's barely better than WD-40 which is not even a penetrant. Switch to Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or Break Free.
good news is, I so using Liquid Wrench

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Bad news. I could be using KY and it wouldn’t make i difference if I can’t actually lube the threads.

Teed that up for all you perverts.. have at it..
 
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Pulled all mine out over the weekend using a Milwaukee 3/8 stubby impact and no penetrating oil. They all came out with no effort.
 
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A 50-50 blend of ATF and Acetone is indeed the best penetrant but it's not as easily sprayed into confined areas and it won't stay blended, it settles out and has to be shook before each use. Its heavier viscosity also makes it harder to spray than something like Kroil or Liquid Wrench.
 
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+1 for Kroil, have used it for years.
Anytime I need to loosen something old/rusty, like my rear shocks, I start spraying it a week or two ahead. Then like the others said, tighten, loosen and repeat. This is where you need time and patience. Sometimes a "tap" with a hammer can also help if it just won't turn at all.
Un-related but another plug for Kroil, just last week I was replacing the 20 year old condenser fan motor on my AC unit at the house and the fan blade would not budge off the motor shaft, due to rust/corrosion. Sprayed with Kroil, applied heat and it practically fell off.
 
I had to remove some cold welded (galled) 304 stainless bolts installed into 304 stainless steel. I used Tap Magic to lubricate the drill and it turned out to be a decent penetrating fluid (I usually use kroil, but not for drilling). I see they now have a penetrating oil. I'll have to try a can.

20221012_171141.webp
 
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Appreciate the responses, but I think the intent of the question is being missed...
The body bolts hang down from the bottom of the tub. Generally, fluid doesn't do a great job flowing up.. it drips down with amazing efficacy. There is no access to spray the threads or even the shank of the bolt on the body bolts is (with the exception of rear most bolts).
Haven't broken any bolts, yet.

I'll just bring it to the shop and let them do it.
 
That's why I told you to drill small holes from the top..jeep even did you a favor on some of them and made a round dome to help I'd where they are.
 
And
Appreciate the responses, but I think the intent of the question is being missed...
The body bolts hang down from the bottom of the tub. Generally, fluid doesn't do a great job flowing up.. it drips down with amazing efficacy. There is no access to spray the threads or even the shank of the bolt on the body bolts is (with the exception of rear most bolts).
Haven't broken any bolts, yet.

I'll just bring it to the shop and let them do it.

That's why I described for you, step by step, how to do it. Whether you read it or not is a different discussion. None of it is easy.