What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

Bosco said:
Just got the Crown Automotive HD Steering Kit- I’m kind of concerned, the reviews are only 3.5 of 5 on Amazon. I’m stock now with 31” tires- planning on a 2” OME lift in the next couple months. Am I going to be happy with this steering kit?
Also- should I install now or wait for lift, I’m guessing an alignment is nessasery after each upgrade?
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Most of the negative reviews are from the bad grease boots. You can install it now and adjust the alignment for the lift later. Aligning it is a piece of cake (google: Stu Olsen Alignment)

Just be sure to paint it, torque nuts to specs and keep it greased.

I am on my 2nd Crown steering kit.
 
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So in reading the reviews and researching this I am finding that the Currie is the best, but when looking into it. Currie says there are no mods necessary for the installation, but in the description it says minimum 2" bumpstops added to the front. Now that seems like a modification. And I don't have any, and I just put front springs on my TJ, so do I really have to take it all back apart to put 2 inch bumpstops in to run this steering? And if so why would this steering make any difference on my bumpstops compared to the stock steering?

Lastly can I put them underneath the cup on the top or do I need to tap a hole and put them on the bottom and with that said how to I test what I actually need? Meaning what if I need 3 inches and don't know it? Or if 2 inches is too much and don't know it?

Thanks still learning abouit these 4 links.
 
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ac_ said:
So in reading the reviews and researching this I am finding that the Currie is the best, but when looking into it. Currie says there are no mods necessary for the installation, but in the description it says minimum 2" bumpstops added to the front. Now that seems like a modification. And I don't have any, and I just put front springs on my TJ, so do I really have to take it all back apart to put 2 inch bumpstops in to run this steering? And if so why would this steering make any difference on my bumpstops compared to the stock steering?

Lastly can I put them underneath the cup on the top or do I need to tap a hole and put them on the bottom and with that said how to I test what I actually need? Meaning what if I need 3 inches and don't know it? Or if 2 inches is too much and don't know it?

Thanks still learning abouit these 4 links.
Click to expand...

Currie is the best in terms of a bolt-on steering system that uses the stock Haltenberger geometry (there's no sense in the crossover setups or anything unless you have some very specific reason you need to be running that type of steering).

The Currie Currectlync does not require any modifications at all, it bolts right on. However, it's not really going to play well with TJs that are at stock height, or only 1-2" of lift or so. That's not to say it won't work, you'll just have to add more bump stop if you're running a really low (or no) lift height.

So yeah, technically the bump stop is a modification, but if you're like me and you already have a 4" lift, then you've already got enough bump stop to compensate for the Currie. But as with anything like this, you really need to bolt it on and then cycle your suspension to see if it steering hits anything at any point during the cycle.

This steering is considerably beefier (thicker) than the stock steering setup. When I compared it to my stock steering side-by-side, it was night-and-day how much beefier it was. Because of that, you can run into issues where the steering will bind up, possible hit your differential cover (though if you don't have a Dana 44, this isn't likely), etc. You may be able to put it on and be just fine with your current setup. However, if you want to be safe, you really need to cycle the suspension and see if anything binds up.
 
Is there any write ups on the correct way to cycle the suspension? I am assuming with it all put together put a floor jack on either side and crank it as high as it will go and see if the bumpstops hit? or shock bottoms out?

BTW as of this week I do have a 2" lift. Well not officially yet as I still need to install my new jks discos and test drive it but it is in. Just a little more finishing work.

That all said do I even need to upgrade my steering for a 2" lift. I mean in the drivers seat will I notice any difference?
 
When I tested mine, I disco'd the sway bar, unbolted the bottom of the shocks, pulled the springs, removed the jounce bumpers, put the axle on jack stands and lowered the jeep to full bump and inspected everything for clearance. Then, I put one wheel on and cycled the axle to full stuff and checked again. I also turned the wheel to full lock while the one side was stuffed to check for tire clearance.
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ac_ said:
Is there any write ups on the correct way to cycle the suspension? I am assuming with it all put together put a floor jack on either side and crank it as high as it will go and see if the bumpstops hit? or shock bottoms out?

BTW as of this week I do have a 2" lift. Well not officially yet as I still need to install my new jks discos and test drive it but it is in. Just a little more finishing work.

That all said do I even need to upgrade my steering for a 2" lift. I mean in the drivers seat will I notice any difference?
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's actually really simple. Just remove the coils. Support jeep by the frame. Jack the axle until something contacts. That's literally all you have to do. If something contacts, you know you need to extend your bumpstops. So extend them, then cycle it again and see if anything contacts still.

This should be done after installing a new lift or new steering such as the Currie Currectlync. That way when you're off-road and you flex it, you don't end up destroying something due to your bumpstops being too short.

If your steering is old and worn, you will notice a difference. For me, it tightened up my steering more, but I think that's because my tie-rod end links were probably worn.

Other than that though, you won't notice anything. You will however have the piece of mind that your steering is now virtually indestructible.
 
Chris said:
Yeah, it's actually really simple. Just remove the coils. Support jeep by the frame. Jack the axle until something contacts. That's literally all you have to do. If something contacts, you know you need to extend your bumpstops. So extend them, then cycle it again and see if anything contacts still.

This should be done after installing a new lift or new steering such as the Currie Currectlync. That way when you're off-road and you flex it, you don't end up destroying something due to your bumpstops being too short.

If your steering is old and worn, you will notice a difference. For me, it tightened up my steering more, but I think that's because my tie-rod end links were probably worn.

Other than that though, you won't notice anything. You will however have the piece of mind that your steering is now virtually indestructible.
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Thanks for the pics @bobthetj03

I think I will re-assess this later. I may have to take it apart again soon to add a 3/4 spacer like bobthetj03, because mine has a rake to it. I need to drive it first and see how it looks when it all gets settled in. My front springs were a pita to get in. I had to actually go buy a spring compressor to get them in. I don't want to take it all apart to do this now. I just got it aligned and all I need to do to actually drive it is add the new discos in front. I won't do any heavy wheeling till I do, but I may not need to upgrade my steering right away anyway because my steering is pretty sound now and all of the parts are good, so I may wait till they get loose before I replace them. I will pull the springs then and re-evaluate the situation.

One more question. I have the stock control arms and in the front lowers in the front there is an adjustment. I tweaked with that but it didn't change the pinion angle even a full degree in any direction. Anybody know what the adjustment is for and if it even does anything worth while? I mean really there isn't much adjustment there at all. I can't imagine even it it was the extreme opposite it would actually affect anything at all?
 
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ac_ said:
So in reading the reviews and researching this I am finding that the Currie is the best, but when looking into it. Currie says there are no mods necessary for the installation, but in the description it says minimum 2" bumpstops added to the front. Now that seems like a modification. And I don't have any, and I just put front springs on my TJ, so do I really have to take it all back apart to put 2 inch bumpstops in to run this steering? And if so why would this steering make any difference on my bumpstops compared to the stock steering?

Lastly can I put them underneath the cup on the top or do I need to tap a hole and put them on the bottom and with that said how to I test what I actually need? Meaning what if I need 3 inches and don't know it? Or if 2 inches is too much and don't know it?

Thanks still learning abouit these 4 links.
Click to expand...
2" of bumpstop is nothing if you consider most people running Currie Steering run 2”+ lift and a BL.
ac_ said:
Thanks for the pics @bobthetj03

I think I will re-assess this later. I may have to take it apart again soon to add a 3/4 spacer like bobthetj03, because mine has a rake to it. I need to drive it first and see how it looks when it all gets settled in. My front springs were a pita to get in. I had to actually go buy a spring compressor to get them in. I don't want to take it all apart to do this now. I just got it aligned and all I need to do to actually drive it is add the new discos in front. I won't do any heavy wheeling till I do, but I may not need to upgrade my steering right away anyway because my steering is pretty sound now and all of the parts are good, so I may wait till they get loose before I replace them. I will pull the springs then and re-evaluate the situation.

One more question. I have the stock control arms and in the front lowers in the front there is an adjustment. I tweaked with that but it didn't change the pinion angle even a full degree in any direction. Anybody know what the adjustment is for and if it even does anything worth while? I mean really there isn't much adjustment there at all. I can't imagine even it it was the extreme opposite it would actually affect anything at all?
Click to expand...
Chris said:
Can you snap a photo of said adjustment?
Click to expand...
Its your caster adjustment. It was not present on the high pinion dana 30 so i had to get DA lowers.
 
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ac_ said:
Thanks for the pics @bobthetj03

I think I will re-assess this later. I may have to take it apart again soon to add a 3/4 spacer like bobthetj03, because mine has a rake to it. I need to drive it first and see how it looks when it all gets settled in. My front springs were a pita to get in. I had to actually go buy a spring compressor to get them in. I don't want to take it all apart to do this now. I just got it aligned and all I need to do to actually drive it is add the new discos in front. I won't do any heavy wheeling till I do, but I may not need to upgrade my steering right away anyway because my steering is pretty sound now and all of the parts are good, so I may wait till they get loose before I replace them. I will pull the springs then and re-evaluate the situation.

One more question. I have the stock control arms and in the front lowers in the front there is an adjustment. I tweaked with that but it didn't change the pinion angle even a full degree in any direction. Anybody know what the adjustment is for and if it even does anything worth while? I mean really there isn't much adjustment there at all. I can't imagine even it it was the extreme opposite it would actually affect anything at all?
Click to expand...

That's what I did, then swapped to ZJ components.
 
ac_ said:
... have the stock control arms and in the front lowers in the front there is an adjustment. I tweaked with that but it didn't change the pinion angle even a full degree in any direction. Anybody know what the adjustment is for and if it even does anything worth while? ...
Click to expand...

Are you referring to cam bolts on the axle side of the LCAs?
 
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CodaMan said:
Are you referring to cam bolts on the axle side of the LCAs?
Click to expand...

Ya but I monkeyed with them with an angle gauge on the diff and at no point did it even change the pinion angle even 1 degree, so there is not much caster adjustment to be had. I mean even if it was out I would be surprised if turning that would get it back into specs. I ended up just putting it back where it was on both sides and giving up. There really isn't much difference on the front pinion angle on this small lift anyway. It really looks like if I want to do some damage I would replace the lowers with double adjustable control arms. Then I bet I could make this thing bark!!
 
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