Carrier inspection

[guitardave]

Stupid question possibly. I need to inspect my Dana 35 carrier. Not replace anything yet but a diagnostic inspection. Can I do this and carefully put all the shims back exactly as they were without a total setup ?? No bearings removed whatsoever just need to see why the right axle and spider gear are wobbling in the carrier and going clunk clunk relative to wheel speed. ???? Sorry but I am just learning all this.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Yes no problem. Make sure the bearing caps go back on exactly as they came off. Same position and orientation.

 

[guitardave]

Yes no problem. Make sure the bearing caps go back on exactly as they came off. Same position and orientation.

THANK YOU !!!!

 

[guitardave]

THANK YOU !!!!

I knew about cap marking for orientation. I have watched about 122,000 YouTube videos lol. Literally

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I knew about cap marking for orientation. I have watched about 122,000 YouTube videos lol. Literally

I think you're going to fit in nicely here Dave.

 

[JMT]

Stupid question possibly. I need to inspect my Dana 35 carrier. Not replace anything yet but a diagnostic inspection. Can I do this and carefully put all the shims back exactly as they were without a total setup ?? No bearings removed whatsoever just need to see why the right axle and spider gear are wobbling in the carrier and going clunk clunk relative to wheel speed. ???? Sorry but I am just learning all this.

Yes, you can as stated above. I usually pry mine out using DOM tubing and fitting the end over a ring gear bolt head. Make sure and provide a soft landing pad underneath for the carrier, though mine doesn’t usually fall out bc after it is free I just use my hands. Be careful with the shims. Hopefully none are microthin which can make it difficult to get the carrier back in without damaging them.

 

[guitardave]

Yes, you can as stated above. I usually pry mine out using DOM tubing and fitting the end over a ring gear bolt head. Make sure and provide a soft landing pad underneath for the carrier, though mine doesn’t usually fall out bc after it is free I just use my hands. Be careful with the shims. Hopefully none are microthin which can make it difficult to get the carrier back in without damaging them.

THANK YOU !!!!

 

[NskLJ]

Yes, you can as stated above. I usually pry mine out using DOM tubing and fitting the end over a ring gear bolt head. Make sure and provide a soft landing pad underneath for the carrier, though mine doesn’t usually fall out bc after it is free I just use my hands. Be careful with the shims. Hopefully none are microthin which can make it difficult to get the carrier back in without damaging them.

The axle works good to pry it out also.

 

[NskLJ]

Stupid question possibly. I need to inspect my Dana 35 carrier. Not replace anything yet but a diagnostic inspection. Can I do this and carefully put all the shims back exactly as they were without a total setup ?? No bearings removed whatsoever just need to see why the right axle and spider gear are wobbling in the carrier and going clunk clunk relative to wheel speed. ???? Sorry but I am just learning all this.

You should be able to replace spider gears without removing the carrier.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/omix...V4xmtBh1Sigh7EAQYBiABEgIMlvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[guitardave]

One detail I might mention. The rear-end is an eaton elocker. I read the spiders are proprietary to Eaton so you must use their gears. Is this correct ??

 

[guitardave]

I have a video if I can figure how to attach it so you all can watch and make further comments. Please do and thanks in advance !!

 

[NskLJ]

One detail I might mention. The rear-end is an eaton elocker. I read the spiders are proprietary to Eaton so you must use their gears. Is this correct ??

The are probably Eaton spiders then. You say the right axle and spiders are wobbling in the carrier. What leads you to believe this? You state you have a clunk, relative to wheel speed. This does t make sense, a clunk would be a noise when starting or stopping or hitting a bump. A grinding or bearing noise would be more related to wheel speed. If he noise is speed related and you assume it’s coming from the rear, try driving down a wide empty road and make sweeping left and right turns. This will load the axle bearing and should increase the noise if it’s a wheel bearing. When you go left the weight will shift to the right. Spider gears usually make noise on turns.

 

[JMT]

One detail I might mention. The rear-end is an eaton elocker. I read the spiders are proprietary to Eaton so you must use their gears. Is this correct ??

I agree with @NskLJ. Maybe it’s something in the diff, but maybe not. I’m more inclined to think it’s not. Either way you need more evaluation before throwing parts at it. If you have an Eaton E-Locker in the rear diff you’ll have to disconnect the wire going in the top of the diff to the inside where it attaches to the carrier/locker. I’ve done it, it just adds a bit of pain to pulling the carrier/locker. If the clunk is speed related then it’s somewhere in your driveline. If it’s a predictable sound (iterative), then I’ve laid my iPhone on the road and driven over it with the camera on in slow mo mode. That enabled me to listen to the clunk and isolate where in the driveline it was coming from as the Jeep passed over the phone.

 

[guitardave]

I have a video if I can figure how to attach it so you all can watch and make further comments. Please do and thanks in advance !!

The are probably Eaton spiders then. You say the right axle and spiders are wobbling in the carrier. What leads you to believe this? You state you have a clunk, relative to wheel speed. This does t make sense, a clunk would be a noise when starting or stopping or hitting a bump. A grinding or bearing noise would be more related to wheel speed. If he noise is speed related and you assume it’s coming from the rear, try driving down a wide empty road and make sweeping left and right turns. This will load the axle bearing and should increase the noise if it’s a wheel bearing. When you go left the weight will shift to the right. Spider gears usually make noise on turns.

Ok. I pulled the cover. I can move the spider and axle with a screwdriver a good 1/8" or maybe even 1/4". The passenger side is tight, no play. The rear axles bearings and seals are brand new. Not even 50 miles new. The rotational clunking occurs under the following. On DECELERATION really bad, on level ground feathering throttle and on acceleration no noise whatsoever. The ujoints brand new. I have taken the drive shaft off and can feel no play at all in the pinion. I have tried driving it with front only driveshaft and the noise continues relative to wheel speed but not nearly as loud. Has brand new brakes and all parts new in brakes. Have changed diff fluid 3 times. Trans fluid too. Switched hubs and wheels from left to right. Same noise clunk clunk clunk. I can walk beside the Jeep and the sound is right there in the right rear wheel. What can it be besides the gear/axle wobbling inside the carrier !!!????? It's driving me insane !!!

 

[NskLJ]

One other way I have used quite a bit to isolate noises is to drive next to a flat wall. Noises will reflect off the wall this can be helpful in isolating the noise. You may want to put it on jack stands and run it in gear, if you need the rpm up a bit put a business card in the throttle to raise the rpm. Use a block of wood to stop one tire and let the other spin.

 

[guitardave]

Ok. I pulled the cover. I can move the spider and axle with a screwdriver a good 1/8" or maybe even 1/4". The passenger side is tight, no play. The rear axles bearings and seals are brand new. Not even 50 miles new. The rotational clunking occurs under the following. On DECELERATION really bad, on level ground feathering throttle and on acceleration no noise whatsoever. The ujoints brand new. I have taken the drive shaft off and can feel no play at all in the pinion. I have tried driving it with front only driveshaft and the noise continues relative to wheel speed but not nearly as loud. Has brand new brakes and all parts new in brakes. Have changed diff fluid 3 times. Trans fluid too. Switched hubs and wheels from left to right. Same noise clunk clunk clunk. I can walk beside the Jeep and the sound is right there in the right rear wheel. What can it be besides the gear/axle wobbling inside the carrier !!!????? It's driving me insane !!!

Correction. Drivers side is TIGHT. PASSENGER WOBBLES. SORRY

 

[guitardave]

One other way I have used quite a bit to isolate noises is to drive next to a flat wall. Noises will reflect off the wall this can be helpful in isolating the noise. You may want to put it on jack stands and run it in gear, if you need the rpm up a bit put a business card in the throttle to raise the rpm. Use a block of wood to stop one tire and let the other spin.

Done that. On jacks no noise at all. Only when it's on the ground does it make a sound. Did the tire think one on one off and no noise either. Could the whole housing be bent and only showing up with weight on it ???

 

[NskLJ]

Ok. I pulled the cover. I can move the spider and axle with a screwdriver a good 1/8" or maybe even 1/4". The passenger side is tight, no play. The rear axles bearings and seals are brand new. Not even 50 miles new. The rotational clunking occurs under the following. On DECELERATION really bad, on level ground feathering throttle and on acceleration no noise whatsoever. The ujoints brand new. I have taken the drive shaft off and can feel no play at all in the pinion. I have tried driving it with front only driveshaft and the noise continues relative to wheel speed but not nearly as loud. Has brand new brakes and all parts new in brakes. Have changed diff fluid 3 times. Trans fluid too. Switched hubs and wheels from left to right. Same noise clunk clunk clunk. I can walk beside the Jeep and the sound is right there in the right rear wheel. What can it be besides the gear/axle wobbling inside the carrier !!!????? It's driving me insane !!!

Ok now we’re getting some where, you original post did not share all you have done. Yes you do have a problem there, If you have to pull the carrier, mark the caps each side and orientation. I use a center punch make one punch and two punches with corresponding punches on the housing. The boss on the spider or side gear should run in the carrier. You may be able to change spiders without pulling the carrier. I do not know if here is enough room with the Eaton but it’s worth a try. The arrow in the picture is the area to look at if that side gear broke that may cause the problem you are experiencing.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

To remove the carrier, put a box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, turn the pinion so the wrench will push against the differential housing and it will pop right out. No need for pry bars.

You'll just need to figure out whether you need the wrench to push against the top or bottom of the housing. I can never remember which it is depending on low pinion or high pinion.

 

[NskLJ]

Ok now we’re getting some where, you original post did not share all you have done. Yes you do have a problem there, If you have to pull the carrier, mark the caps each side and orientation. I use a center punch make one punch and two punches with corresponding punches on the housing. The boss on the spider or side gear should run in the carrier. You may be able to change spiders without pulling the carrier. I do not know if here is enough room with the Eaton but it’s worth a try. The arrow in the picture is the area to look at if that side gear broke that may cause the problem you are experiencing.

View attachment 375887

Found this on another side axle not engaging fully on e locker. This could be your problem. It was a Toyota but for the side gear to fail like that is not common.