Rear brake overhaul

[StG58]

The SE is getting a brake overhaul this summer, and I would like some advice on rear brake parts.

I would like to replace the rear cylenders, the hardware, drums and, of course shoes. De-rust and paint the backing plates.

The front is getting the stock size Black Magic treatment, so I suppose the I could just hit Blaine up for a rear kit as well.

While I'm in there, what all should I be looking at? Any subtle gotchas besides the 99 rotor depth deal?

 

[Rob5589]

Stock parts would be fine, surely Blaine sells them as well. There is no need to replace the wheel cylinders. A simple seal kit would be fine.

 

[bobthetj03]

I remember the days when we rebuilt wheel cylinders. They are so dang cheap now, it's not worth the trouble.

 

[Rob5589]

I remember the days when we rebuilt wheel cylinders. They are so dang cheap now, it's not worth the trouble.

Yea, you're right. Hell, my last two brake jobs I replaced the rotors instead of cutting them. They are so inexpensive now it is not worth the trouble and cutting them cost about 75% of new ones.

Disregard my previous post @StG58 and buy new ones :emoji_thumbsup:

 

[bobthetj03]

Yea, you're right. Hell, my last two brake jobs I replaced the rotors instead of cutting them. They are so inexpensive now it is not worth the trouble and cutting them cost about 75% of new ones.

Disregard my previous post @StG58 and buy new ones :emoji_thumbsup:

We are dating ourselves brother. Agreed, it's almost a wash surfacing rotors any more.

 

[Rob5589]

We are dating ourselves brother. Agreed, it's almost a wash surfacing rotors any more.

So true...

 

[RaymondT]

If the backing plates are suspect, I would drop the $63 ea (SE stock drum brakes) and get new ones. If they can be cleaned up, I use a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a rubber-pad backed 150gr abrasive to carefully take the wear grooves out of the shoe contact points. Clean up everything well, primer (red oxide) and paint. New cylinders - they're cheap. Check this thread on reassembly;

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/doing-rear-drum-brakes-a-must-read.1987/

If I did mine over, I would consider the Black Magic products. The "Premium" Napa shoes I used were shoddy looking.

 

[StG58]

If the backing plates are suspect, I would drop the $63 ea (SE stock drum brakes) and get new ones. If they can be cleaned up, I use a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a rubber-pad backed 150gr abrasive to carefully take the wear grooves out of the shoe contact points. Clean up everything well, primer (red oxide) and paint. New cylinders - they're cheap. Check this thread on reassembly;

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/doing-rear-drum-brakes-a-must-read.1987/

If I did mine over, I would consider the Black Magic products. The "Premium" Napa shoes I used were shoddy looking.

Blaine has a rear kit that is pretty inclusive. I'm pretty sure that's the way I'm going. After 100,000 hard miles I figure that it's time to start rebuilding stuff from the ground up for another 100k use. Thanks for the link to the rear brake rebuild thread. I was thinking about that one.

 

[Bosco]

So... is this a place I should buy my rear drum brakes?
http://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep-TJ-2000-2006_c44.htm

 

[StG58]

So... is this a place I should buy my rear drum brakes?
http://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep-TJ-2000-2006_c44.htm

Yup, that's the place. The kit from @mrblaine is ever so slightly more expensive than piecing it together yourself, but it's worth the few shekels more to order it from him. Everything shows up at once, he is the brake wizard and will give you solid advice if asked and he's a square shooter. Get a quart or two of DOT 3 brake fluid and break out the tools. Post up your progress.

 

[Bosco]

@mrblaine do you guys have wheel cylinders @ bmb?

 

[Bosco]

Yup, that's the place. The kit from @mrblaine is ever so slightly more expensive than piecing it together yourself, but it's worth the few shekels more to order it from him. Everything shows up at once, he is the brake wizard and will give you solid advice if asked and he's a square shooter. Get a quart or two of DOT 3 brake fluid and break out the tools. Post up your progress.

Almost done with my rear brake overhaul (06 TJ X, auto, 4.0) but I’ve got a few questions before I put the tires back on, and I don’t know the part names-

1. The self adjusting brake dial on the passenger side is not in contact with the plate that turns it, I could slide a sheet of paper between the two- the driver’s side seems great. (See photos)



2. The driver’s side drum won’t slide on (complete kit from BMB)....? I tried swapping the drums, no joy.

3. I received two extra red springs .....should there be extra parts?

 

[Bosco]

@mrblaine @Chris anyone?

 

[CMTJ]

Take a look at the wheel seals and bearings as well.

 

[mrblaine]

Almost done with my rear brake overhaul (06 TJ X, auto, 4.0) but I’ve got a few questions before I put the tires back on, and I don’t know the part names-

1. The self adjusting brake dial on the passenger side is not in contact with the plate that turns it, I could slide a sheet of paper between the two- the driver’s side seems great. (See photos)

View attachment 28602View attachment 28603

Dig around online. The routing of the cable affects how contact is make with the lever and the star wheel.

2. The driver’s side drum won’t slide on (complete kit from BMB)....? I tried swapping the drums, no joy.

Make sure the star adjuster is threaded in far enough so the diameter of the shoes is small enough for the drum to fit over them. The shoe assembly has to be centered on the backing plate for the drum to slip on. Smack it over to the center and then the drum should go on.

3. I received two extra red springs .....should there be extra parts?
View attachment 28604

They should be the springs that go on the bottom right above the adjuster. They could also be extra as they do include a spring with the drum and then we include a hardware kit. Not sure if the spring is duplicated.

 

[Bosco]

Make sure the star adjuster is threaded in far enough so the diameter of the shoes is small enough for the drum to fit over them. The shoe assembly has to be centered on the backing plate for the drum to slip on. Smack it over to the center and then the drum should go on.

Adjuster is threaded all the way, everything is centered- ‘smack it’ - Force it on?

Yes I got a total of four of those springs.

 

[mrblaine]

Adjuster is threaded all the way, everything is centered- ‘smack it’ - Force it on?

Yes I got a total of four of those springs.

No, you have to gently smack the shoe assembly to one side or the other to center it on the backing plate to make sure you can get the drums on. Sometimes you need to smack them up a bit to make sure they are centered on the anchor pin.

 

[Bosco]

No, you have to gently smack the shoe assembly to one side or the other to center it on the backing plate to make sure you can get the drums on. Sometimes you need to smack them up a bit to make sure they are centered on the anchor pin.

Ok, I’ll look at it again this evening. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

 

[mrblaine]

Ok, I’ll look at it again this evening. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Time just isn't a problem when it comes to helping folks.

 

[Bosco]

No, you have to gently smack the shoe assembly to one side or the other to center it on the backing plate to make sure you can get the drums on. Sometimes you need to smack them up a bit to make sure they are centered on the anchor pin.

Smacked is around, tapped it with rubber mallet (just lightly) - still no-go.
Took everything off and triple checked everything was in the right position. Reassembled- same thing.

Bled the brakes, just Incase it was aired up (I did replace the wheel cylinder), tried ratchet strap around shoes (I’m stupid, I know) with bleeder valve open to collapse the cylinder, still nothing.

I can tap the drum on with a rubber mallet, it’s that close.... thinking that’s not something I should do.

I’m 100% sure everything is installed correctly.
Any ideas?