No heat: replaced thermostat housing, thermostat, coolant sensor, now "check gauges" and screeching

northwestTJ

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Dec 6, 2022
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Pacific Northwest
Had (still have) no heat. Topped off coolant, replaced thermostat and housing and coolant sensor. No heat. Going to flush the heather core, hoping I don't have to replace. Started back up and have gurgling sounds and screeching (when in gear) coming from belt area and check gauges light comes on after a few minutes of driving.

Belt not tight enough?
Oil pressure is good but going to check....

Any ideas are much appreciated.

1998 Tj 90 K
 
Sounds like air still in the system. What did the temp gauge read?

Screeching most likely a loose or contaminated belt.
 
Screeching most likely a loose or contaminated belt.

was gonna guess antifreeze on the belt.

What are your gauge readings when you get the Check Gauges light? Is the temp pegged one way or the other?
 
You also might want to preemptively replace (or at least check) the tensioner pulleys. I used Gates and Mopar I believe are both recommended.

I think you got antifreeze on the belt.

I replaced my heater core...then went back and did the water pump and thermostat housing...then the alternator went out...now the AC compressor is squealing...all inside a year... probably should have done the hoses and I'm missing the cap on my overflow container.

Might want to consider firing the parts canon at it...harder and harder to get good quality Mopar or equivalent parts these days...hate to think what's ahead in 5 years or so.

-Mac
 
You also might want to preemptively replace (or at least check) the tensioner pulleys. I used Gates and Mopar I believe are both recommended.

I think you got antifreeze on the belt.

I replaced my heater core...then went back and did the water pump and thermostat housing...then the alternator went out...now the AC compressor is squealing...all inside a year... probably should have done the hoses and I'm missing the cap on my overflow container.

Might want to consider firing the parts canon at it...harder and harder to get good quality Mopar or equivalent parts these days...hate to think what's ahead in 5 years or so.

-Mac

OK, (tensioner pulleys) will add that to my list to investigate. Did you find the micro-adjuster to be helpful? Mine tightens (I can feel the long pointed end of the bolt) but it doesn't seem to be tightening any more than the pulley. Maybe undo the microtensioner all the way and tighten up the pulley first?

I'm sure on the antifreeze.....tightened original thermostat housing well past 15' pounds and it broke, antifreeze shower. New housing with Permatex (paper gasket no good).

Interesting on the core, alternator, compressor....maybe I'll strip the block and start from scratch! I like that, "Parts Cannon"

Thanks for the feedback, greatly appreciated.
 
Is the loss of heat new? Is it possible that a previous owner replaced the heater core? I ask because some here have reported that the cheaper ones don't put out as much heat as the OEM one. Are the to/from hoses hot to the touch after it's warmed up?
 
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To adjust tension on the belt...bolt next to the PS pump...15mm if I believe correctly...and loosen the tensioner pulley below it... doesn't need much.

-Mac
 
OK, (tensioner pulleys) will add that to my list to investigate. Did you find the micro-adjuster to be helpful? Mine tightens (I can feel the long pointed end of the bolt) but it doesn't seem to be tightening any more than the pulley. Maybe undo the microtensioner all the way and tighten up the pulley first?

I'm sure on the antifreeze.....tightened original thermostat housing well past 15' pounds and it broke, antifreeze shower. New housing with Permatex (paper gasket no good).

Interesting on the core, alternator, compressor....maybe I'll strip the block and start from scratch! I like that, "Parts Cannon"

Thanks for the feedback, greatly appreciated.

I’d avoid the parts canon approach. Find out the problem and correct it.

1) is the coolant level low? If so can lead to heater not working and overheating. Test cooling system for leaks by renting tool.
2) is the tstat opening at 195*F. Test by starting engine and checking if the upper radiator hose turns hot when it gets up to running temp.
3) is the radiator cap bad (leak in the system. Test with same tool you rented under 1 above.
4) is there air in the system, often in the upper radiator hose. Burp the system by bringing up to running temp with radiator cap off and squeezing the tube, preferably with the front of the engine pointed uphill.

Report back.
 
It's blowing cold air...each click of the fan increases as it should...if I turn the unit off and then back on, it's barely warm for about 1-2 seconds. The temp gauge shows about right...~200. Both hoses to and from heater core are cold.

Copy, Just making sure you didn't have a vacuum leak
 
Is the loss of heat new? Is it possible that a previous owner replaced the heater core? I ask because some here have reported that the cheaper ones don't put out as much heat as the OEM one. Are the to/from hoses hot to the touch after it's warmed up?

Yes, loss of heat is new. It slowly decreased to now blowing cold air only. The radiator hose to the thermostat housing is engine temp and the to/from hoses for heater core are cool, not warm.
 
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was gonna guess antifreeze on the belt.

What are your gauge readings when you get the Check Gauges light? Is the temp pegged one way or the other?

Temp looks about right when Check Gauges light comes on....b/w 195* and 200*. I'll double check and report back.
 
I’d avoid the parts canon approach. Find out the problem and correct it.

1) is the coolant level low? If so can lead to heater not working and overheating. Test cooling system for leaks by renting tool.
2) is the tstat opening at 195*F. Test by starting engine and checking if the upper radiator hose turns hot when it gets up to running temp.
3) is the radiator cap bad (leak in the system. Test with same tool you rented under 1 above.
4) is there air in the system, often in the upper radiator hose. Burp the system by bringing up to running temp with radiator cap off and squeezing the tube, preferably with the front of the engine pointed uphill.

Report back.

1. Coolant is just above radiator level. Should be good. I'll look into the tool.
2. Radiator hose (on the upper left if looking from front bumper) is hot when at running temp. Hose running to/from tstat housing.
3. New radiator and cap. Seems snug, no leaking visible.
4. There might be air...will try #4.

Thanks and will report back. Appreciated!
 
Sounds like air still in the system. What did the temp gauge read?

Screeching most likely a loose or contaminated belt.

Temp gauges ~195-200*...will double check and get back to the thread. I'm thinking loose/contaminated as well....going to tighten belt.