Coolant Temp Increasing at Highway Speeds

Bowhunter

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Long winded post. I’ve read many different coolant topics on here and can’t seem to figure this out…

Before I dive into the complete cooling system overhaul detailed by Chris, wanted to see if I could pinpoint what is causing my higher temps at hwy speed.

Recently bought my 03’ rubicon with 118k miles. PO looked to be using full strength redish coolant (not rusty, just burgundy red) so over the last few days I’ve been removing coolant a gallon at a time and mixing it 50/50 with distilled water. At this point I’d say I’m close to a 60/40 split (heavy on the coolant side)

Around town only driving, per my OBD tool and my iPhone app, coolant will sit around 195-low 200s. Today when driving approx 55-70mph on the hwy coolant temps will creep up to the high 222 (as high as till 230/232 when the coolant was full strength) with 80 degree ambient temp. When getting off the hwy, coolant dropped from 222 to 217 within the distance of the exit. Then when idling for a few minutes at the end of the exit, temps went down to 210/212. Then 1-2 miles of city driving brings coolant down to mid 200’s. Then park in my garage it will idle at mid to low 200’s for however long I let it sit there(tested 10 minutes). While in the garage if I put it in neutral and rev to 2k rmps, coolant temp drops quickly to 195 then back up to low 200’s when back to idling for a few min.

Radiator appears to be mopar but doesn’t look original. No build up inside the radiator (see pictures) and no mud on the exterior of the radiator

Lower rad hose coil seems to be good so don’t think it’s collapsing at speed

New stant 18 cap

Fan clutch has same resistance when hot and cold (stuck in the engaged position?)

Thermostat appears to be working properly and appears to be 195 judging by coolant read outs

AC not on during any of this. AC will slowly raise coolant temp while at an idle

Any ideas what causing this hwy temp heat up?
 
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What does the gauge on the dash read? My Jeep had a similar issue when I bought it. First thing I would do is a good chemical flush. The kind you leave in there for 6-8 hours before draining it. My 03' Rubicon was taken care of and still had a bunch of crud/rust come out. It's fine after two separate flushes.
 
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What does the gauge on the dash read? My Jeep had a similar issue when I bought it. First thing I would do is a good chemical flush. The kind you leave in there for 6-8 hours before draining it. My 03' Rubicon was taken care of and still had a bunch of crud/rust come out. It's fine after two separate flushes.

When you did the chemical flush, did you use the chemical both times you flushed it, or only the first time? I'm getting ready to do this myself, bought a bottle of blue devil.
 
What does the gauge on the dash read? My Jeep had a similar issue when I bought it. First thing I would do is a good chemical flush. The kind you leave in there for 6-8 hours before draining it. My 03' Rubicon was taken care of and still had a bunch of crud/rust come out. It's fine after two separate flushes.

The guage seems to be pretty accurate from 100 to 210 when comparing it to the readings I get from the OBD and the phone app.

However beyond 210 is where it’s not so accurate. When there was full strength coolant in the system, this is what 230 looked like on the dash gauge. At 230 the gauge should be at that last white dot before the red section

222 yesterday the needle was still just barely on the right side of the 210 white dot.

For the flush, did you add it to your existing coolant and did you empty your existing coolant?

Which flushing product did you use?

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What does the gauge on the dash read? My Jeep had a similar issue when I bought it. First thing I would do is a good chemical flush. The kind you leave in there for 6-8 hours before draining it. My 03' Rubicon was taken care of and still had a bunch of crud/rust come out. It's fine after two separate flushes.

I had to do two flushes using that chemical before my waterhose-flush started coming out clean even. A lot more miles though, but it helped a lot.

Also, wasn't the temp gauge more of an "idiot light" in the later models? Or was that just the oil pressure gauge?
 
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How confident are you it's burped properly. Since you were opening up the system so much, that's that many chances you got air in there.

Not confident at all because I had read a few posts on here saying it’s self burping so I didn’t burp it.

Just keep the rad cap off and let the jeep idle up till the thermostat opens and then add coolant as needed?
 
Not confident at all because I had read a few posts on here saying it’s self burping so I didn’t burp it.

Just keep the rad cap off and let the jeep idle up till the thermostat opens and then add coolant as needed?

That's all I did bleeding mine on Saturday. I normally get on the bumper and try to shake it around, and point the front up a slight incline.

Some people recommend drilling a 1/8" hole in the top of the tstat to help with bleeding, but I didn't do that with my last one and was still able to get it done. I did do it to my new one though.
 
Not confident at all because I had read a few posts on here saying it’s self burping so I didn’t burp it.

Just keep the rad cap off and let the jeep idle up till the thermostat opens and then add coolant as needed?

I've never burped a TJ cooling system before. NEVER had an issue. Air, like a woman in a bad marriage, just wants to get out.
 
Have you tried flushing out the cooling fins thoroughly with a garden hose? Typically at highway speeds it would run at it's coolest.

Yeah, do that after a chemical flush. Autozone loans an adapter. Backflush your heater core while you're at it
 
The chemicals in a good flush don't require that.

I definitely had chunks of like, scale coming out when I did it. Flat black-ish flakes. Not sure what it was but the hoseflush definitely got more crap out. I used the Prestone on in a yellow bottle not sure if that isn't a good brand or what
 
Yeah, do that after a chemical flush. Autozone loans an adapter. Backflush your heater core while you're at it

I'm saying external flush, just making sure the radiator fins are not filled with debris or dirt. Also I assume you have a stock grill? Any modifications that would block air flow from entering the radiator?
 
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How confident are you it's burped properly. Since you were opening up the system so much, that's that many chances you got air in there.

So I was able to use a standard water bottle and pipe thread tape to make a good seal on the radiator opening and I burped the system (was difficult to get the jeep up to 195 degrees, had to put cardboard in front of the stock grille to reduce air floor over radiator. It wanted to sit around 180-185 but was able to get it up to 195-197 with the cardboard but took 15-20min).

A fair amount of bubbles came out but I’d say the radiator took maybe only another 1/2 quart or less of additional fluid.

Took it out for the same hwy drive (but this time there was 20mph wind, driving into it one direction and driving with it when driving back) and temps got essentially back up to the same as yesterday. Maybe slight improvement as the temp didn’t sit a 222 like it did yesterday, wanted to sit around 220/218.

So now the system has been burped and coolant is approx 50/50 mix I’m wondering if replacing the redish coolant (not rust color) with GO5 would bring the temps down those 8-10 degrees I’m looking for (I assume I’m shooting for it to run at 210 on the hwy)

The whole mixing of coolants can fell up greatly concerns me so I would need to be sure I remove all of this redish coolant
 
Was the nose of the Jeep pointed uphill at all when you did this?

I first burped the system on flat ground, then put my jack under the front axle and lifting up the front so that the tires were about 4” off the ground. When doing that, that was when the most bubbles came out and the fluid level in the makeshift no spill funnel went down (I added more fluid before it was complete out of the funnel
 
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