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I can fix that little problem for you.

I have the 15" kit. I actually like that it does it. Makes it so I have more control in tough spots. If the brakes stalled the engine I'd need to adjust my driving style and on the road, your kit is a night and day difference over stock. I think more braking power would actually negatively affect the jeep, especially in the ice and snow during winter. The thing is already super touchy on ice. More than likely it's the MT/rs not being a great ice tire.

I do however likely need to order some new pads from you. Starting to hear what sounds like metal hitting the rotor. Likely from holding the brakes as hard as I can while moving in first 😅
 
I don't hate the AW-4. I am objective. I have a lot of experience with them. I have a rig with one in it. I have swapped in many.
I appreciate you chiming in, it's good to hear your info from the source...
What your numbers don't take into account is the horrible inefficiency that shows up when you swap one into a TJ.
Yep this isn't something that seems to be quantifiable or really even mentioned, other than the heat generated. Which I guess must be a by-product, and though you can manage it, it's solving a consequence of the problem, not the problem itself?
Most everyone agrees that there is very little that is stellar about the 42RLE except that it mostly works. If you want to actually learn something, find someone with a TJ on 35's with the AW-4 swap done well, then find a TJ Unlimited on 35's with the 42 and both built very similarly. Take a long enough trip to spend the day following the 42 around. If you don't get out of the TJ at least 10 times during that little exercise to look behind it to see where the anchor is you feel like you're dragging because you just can't keep up with the other rig, then YOU have very low expectations.
I do agree that I need some perspective - not just on the aw4, either. Sounds like if I drove one of my buddies XJs with an AW4, it wouldn't give me a meaningful example? Did you ever find out why the aw4 seems to "fall on it's face" in the TJ?
Here is the absolute best part. I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that you won't change your mind, no one ever does. I have stood in front of rig owners and used every smidgeon of persuasion I possess to try and convince them that the AW-4 will NOT do what they think it will regardless of what everyone says. I've done too many of them, I've put them in everything from a 98 TJ up through a 2005 TJ Unlimited and I own one. Not a single time have they listened. They never listen until they call me after they have driven it for awhile and ask me why I let them do it. Then I get to go dig out the email that I sent them that tells them exactly every single thing that they were going to discover that is bad about the AW-4 and have them hold on while I send it again. That ends the conversation.
Hey now... I am very stubborn and am not one to do what others tell me cos they told me, but I'm receptive to the advice given here. This is why we're having these conversations! I will admit my opinion is being swayed, and it might be more than just what auto I put in that I'm second guessing and reconsidering.
Before the swap, they are doing and did do the same thing you are doing. You listen to folks who have never done one, you listen to folks who have done ONE and have very low standards and heaps of confirmation bias. Almost no one has the balls to say I fucked up when they put that much time, effort, and expense into that big of a mod, what in the every living fuck do you expect them to say? I spent 5 grand and 50 hours on this bitch and it sucks? Yeah, that's not gonna happen. They whipped out charts, handed me printed out forum posts and part lists and ignored every single thing I had to say. Fine, here's your piece of shit AW-4 swap done so it looks like it came from the factory that way, don't call me. Now I don't get the calls because I won't do one. Of the 10 I have done, only 2 are still with the owners, mine because we don't drive it enough to matter (although it would get driven more if that trans wasn't in it) and the green stretched TJ. The rest either got sold off because the owner hated it, or they did an LS swap. If I had the time, that number would be one.
Yeah that does sound like me. It does suck that all the research you can do, just can't really give you the whole story. Cos there are a lot of positives to the AW4... on paper.
 
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The rear output is a few inches shorter and the front output is a few inches longer.

The atlas, 5:1 in my case, is nice with my manual because even on the steepest of obstacles with a rock in front of the tires I can hold the brakes as hard as possible and let out the clutch in 1st without needing any throttle input. The jeep will push through the brakes and is seemingly impossible to stall in 1st low.

This is exactly one of the scenarios that I don't like about my setup - I thought it was just the manual life. But that'd probably just be my low ass crawl ratio.
 
....

Yeah that does sound like me. It does suck that all the research you can do, just can't really give you the whole story. Cos there are a lot of positives to the AW4... on paper.

So much of what gets bandied about with regard to Jeeps and off road building gets clouded by it's "a Jeep thing" which is a blanket excuse to justify all kinds of poor performance and poor behaviors someone's build exhibits. Then you can add in the crowd that insists it isn't a sheep while proceeding to follow the very same bad build philosophies that have been plaguing the hobby for decades.
 
So much of what gets bandied about with regard to Jeeps and off road building gets clouded by it's "a Jeep thing" which is a blanket excuse to justify all kinds of poor performance and poor behaviors someone's build exhibits. Then you can add in the crowd that insists it isn't a sheep while proceeding to follow the very same bad build philosophies that have been plaguing the hobby for decades.

Yeah, forsure. Definitely a problem in all car-communities - but it feels like it matters a bit more for the jeep lol. Cheap shit on your JDM ricer leaves you stuck in the Walmart parking lot. We're demanding a LOT more out of our vehicles in this context.
 
I am honestly starting to lean towards selling my TJ and looking for an LJR............

Between the money I could hopefully get for my TJ (yes i'd fix my hardtop first lol) and the money that the gears/lockers and auto could cost, I'd probably be in a good spot to get a decent condition LJR. Mostly what matters would be the axles, engine, frame. Be nice to not need to rebuild the suspension, but unless I find exactly what I want already built, I'll end up doing it anyways. So I could be really flexible with how "built" it is to an extent.

@JMT made a point that once I put that 5-6k into this TJ for gears and lockers and an auto, I'm gonna have a much harder time doing this. So if I'm gonna jump ship, now's the time....
 
I am honestly starting to lean towards selling my TJ and looking for an LJR............

Between the money I could hopefully get for my TJ (yes i'd fix my hardtop first lol) and the money that the gears/lockers and auto could cost, I'd probably be in a good spot to get a decent condition LJR. Mostly what matters would be the axles, engine, frame. Be nice to not need to rebuild the suspension, but unless I find exactly what I want already built, I'll end up doing it anyways. So I could be really flexible with how "built" it is to an extent.

@JMT made a point that once I put that 5-6k into this TJ for gears and lockers and an auto, I'm gonna have a much harder time doing this. So if I'm gonna jump ship, now's the time....

Now is the time as far as money and effort invested is concerned. A different Jeep makes the transmission swap significantly easier.
 
Now is the time as far as money and effort invested is concerned. A different Jeep makes the transmission swap significantly easier.

Yep it seems like now is the time to take everything I learned on this jeep and get into what it is turning out is what I REALLY want.

Buying a locked, auto jeep and rebuilding the suspension will likely be a lot cheaper than having the suspension and doing the axles/trans (where I am now).

The hardest part is the sentimental attachment I've ended up with with this jeep really. Gotta remember it's just a car. It seems sad that this thread would turn into "fixing some stuff to sell it".

I guess I'll spend some time this year doing stuff I'd need to do to sell it and see how I feel at the end of the wheeling season...
 
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Yep it seems like now is the time to take everything I learned on this jeep and get into what it is turning out is what I REALLY want.

Buying a locked, auto jeep and rebuilding the suspension will likely be a lot cheaper than having the suspension and doing the axles/trans (where I am now).

The hardest part is the sentimental attachment I've ended up with with this jeep really. Gotta remember it's just a car. It seems sad that this thread would turn into "fixing some stuff to sell it".

I guess I'll spend some time this year doing stuff I'd need to do to sell it and see how I feel at the end of the wheeling season...

I wouldn't be dead set on it being a Rubicon but I wouldn't turn one down if I found a fair deal and was looking.
 
I appreciate you chiming in, it's good to hear your info from the source...
I suspect that isn't entirely true since my position is well known on the AW-4 and I know you read it otherwise you wouldn't have characterized me as hating them which again, I don't.
Yep this isn't something that seems to be quantifiable or really even mentioned, other than the heat generated. Which I guess must be a by-product, and though you can manage it, it's solving a consequence of the problem, not the problem itself?
I don't see any other way to look at it. I also strongly suspect anyone telling you they don't run very hot isn't running a gauge. Lest we forget, one of the most highly recommended trans coolers on here was installed by someone who still doesn't run a temp gauge and yet the recommendation is taken as gospel.
I do agree that I need some perspective - not just on the aw4, either. Sounds like if I drove one of my buddies XJs with an AW4, it wouldn't give me a meaningful example? Did you ever find out why the aw4 seems to "fall on it's face" in the TJ?
No, it would not. We don't know why, we are still working on it. Sadly, Novak's website on trans swap candidate evaluations got redone somehow and the section on the AW-4 went missing. I could have written it.
It does suck that all the research you can do, just can't really give you the whole story. Cos there are a lot of positives to the AW4... on paper.
What positives on paper? There are very few that are true. It is longer than the NV3550, the pan hangs down lower than any other TJ auto and all the manuals. You want a raised custom belly skid, get ready for the trans skid to be an inch lower. It runs very hot. It is horribly inefficient. The OD ratio is less than stellar at .75. To put that in perspective, that is one gear step better than the horrid .69 in the 42RLE. One gear step.

It has 2 positive things. It is reasonably reliable, it has an OD. Not a great one, but it has one.

That length over the 3550 doesn't seem like much. Here is the perspective on that. I built a rig for a guy over some years. As he found things he wanted, I did them for him. First on the list was a 241 to help his manual. Then some outboarded shocks. 12" rears biased 50/50. Then he decided he wanted an AW-4 swap. Okay, you want a center limit strap or dump the 241? Why's that? Well, you already max out the double cardan at full droop. If we make the driveshaft 2" shorter, we have to stop that from happening and the AW-4 is 2" longer.

My buddies tell me all I have to do is swap to a yoke style double cardan instead of the flange mount to fix that. Just have your buddies call Tom and ask him or you call and ask. It is 1/4" difference, not 2" which is what you need. They said it works. You call or they call, I'm not touching nothing until ya'll learn something. He finally called and dumped the 241, went to a 231 with a SSSYE to keep a longer rear driveshaft. Not long after he ran it around for a bit, yep, sold it off.

Our current TJ with the AW-4 has been at the trans shop for almost 2 years trying to get it to not be so much of a piece of shit. But, how a rig works matters to me and based on what I see folks say about that mechanical piece of poo, I am in the minority. (the trans is a sub 10,000 mile 98 AW-4 which is in the more desirable year spread for the swap) It was also swapped in with all NEW parts except the flex plate and stiffener for it.
 
I wouldn't be dead set on it being a Rubicon but I wouldn't turn one down if I found a fair deal and was looking.

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure how much the rubi will add to the price. The LJ and auto will be mandatory, but for the rubi It's likely they're "collectible" enough that it'd still end up being better to just plan on needing to deal with the axles myself. I guess it's not like the 4.10s would be any good for 35s anyways so that'll eventually end up being necessary.
 
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I suspect that isn't entirely true since my position is well known on the AW-4 and I know you read it otherwise you wouldn't have characterized me as hating them which again, I don't.
Sometimes things are lost in translation, I suppose. But yes, I did try to find what you wrote about it myself instead of listening to other's interpretations. It still kinda sounds like you do - I guess it's just a strong dislike when in the TJ? :LOL:
I don't see any other way to look at it. I also strongly suspect anyone telling you they don't run very hot isn't running a gauge. Lest we forget, one of the most highly recommended trans coolers on here was installed by someone who still doesn't run a temp gauge and yet the recommendation is taken as gospel.
Yes this is definitely the case when my XJ buddies say it doesn't run hot. No gauges, it just keeps working.

No, it would not. We don't know why, we are still working on it. Sadly, Novak's website on trans swap candidate evaluations got redone somehow and the section on the AW-4 went missing. I could have written it.

What positives on paper? There are very few that are true. It is longer than the NV3550, the pan hangs down lower than any other TJ auto and all the manuals. You want a raised custom belly skid, get ready for the trans skid to be an inch lower. It runs very hot. It is horribly inefficient. The OD ratio is less than stellar at .75. To put that in perspective, that is one gear step better than the horrid .69 in the 42RLE. One gear step.
The electronic shifting is supposed to be a lot nicer, and the ability to turn it into a "manualmatic" also seemed desirable for easy forest road trails. Although in practice, I have no idea if that's useful. I have never wheeled an auto.

My thoughts were also that a non-ideal OD was better than no OD at all. Sounds like that's not really the case?

It has 2 positive things. It is reasonably reliable, it has an OD. Not a great one, but it has one.

That length over the 3550 doesn't seem like much. Here is the perspective on that. I built a rig for a guy over some years. As he found things he wanted, I did them for him. First on the list was a 241 to help his manual. Then some outboarded shocks. 12" rears biased 50/50. Then he decided he wanted an AW-4 swap. Okay, you want a center limit strap or dump the 241? Why's that? Well, you already max out the double cardan at full droop. If we make the driveshaft 2" shorter, we have to stop that from happening and the AW-4 is 2" longer.
Yeah I definitely can admit that I'm that guy - I am trying, but there isn't any way to talk my through understanding the comprises that come in the future since I've just never built a jeep like that. I'm not sure I'll ever get to that point in my jeep honestly, but I guess might as well try not to make it a non-option by decisions made now.
My buddies tell me all I have to do is swap to a yoke style double cardan instead of the flange mount to fix that. Just have your buddies call Tom and ask him or you call and ask. It is 1/4" difference, not 2" which is what you need. They said it works. You call or they call, I'm not touching nothing until ya'll learn something. He finally called and dumped the 241, went to a 231 with a SSSYE to keep a longer rear driveshaft. Not long after he ran it around for a bit, yep, sold it off.

Our current TJ with the AW-4 has been at the trans shop for almost 2 years trying to get it to not be so much of a piece of shit. But, how a rig works matters to me and based on what I see folks say about that mechanical piece of poo, I am in the minority. (the trans is a sub 10,000 mile 98 AW-4 which is in the more desirable year spread for the swap) It was also swapped in with all NEW parts except the flex plate and stiffener for it.

Yeah... that is worrying. I sure would hate to do something to my jeep that makes me enjoy it less to drive. That could push me out of the hobby if it's bad enough.
 
The fact that I can't fit my dog, my wheeling gear box, and my passenger seat in my TJ has always been in the back of my head for needing an LJ too fwiw...
 
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The Dana 44 in the front would help with gearing for the auto though since you could run 5.38s.

Good news is the prices on lj's have been coming down some lately.
 
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The Dana 44 in the front would help with gearing for the auto though since you could run 5.38s.

Good news is the prices on lj's have been coming down some lately.

True. Although on the flip side, unless the LJ is much different than the TJ, if I do end up with a 30 in front it should be just fine for what I end up doing. I'd likely try to find a HP30 if that is what I end up with.
 
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