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Basket's Build

lBasket

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Alright, it is probably time to start a build thread if I'm actually going to deviate from stock, lol. Bought the jeep last August and have replaced most suspension and steering parts with stock replacements by now, not really knowing much about "building" a jeep at the time. Honestly, I'm glad it worked out that way, after a year of wheeling and the experiences at TJ Fest, now I actually have a vague idea what I'm doing and in what order I think is most important.

Starting from a pretty clean (if heavily used) slate. Stock photo from the dealer when I got it at 194k, 4.0, 5spd:
1628822253570.png

This thread will probably include a lot of learning-as-you-go and amateurish mistakes, but whatever. All in good fun. Never been into wheeling before the jeep, and never really owned an SUV except for the crappy pathfinder I had for 6ish months before the jeep. So lots to learn.

I'll try to keep a current build list so I can look cool on the front page.

Current build (all done by me):
  • Aussie locker in the front
  • Warn M8000
  • Stubbified Stock bumper
  • 2" BDS suspension lift
  • Rear Core4x4 t2 LCAs
  • Front, Rear, Core4x4 UCAs
  • HP Dana 30
  • JB Conversions SSSYE
  • Tom Woods DC rear driveshaft
  • YJ front extended brake lines
  • Savvy GTS
  • Savvy Cable Shifter
  • Savvy MML
  • Hooke Roade steering linkage riser
  • UCF 3/8" aluminum ultra-clearance Tcase skid (aka tummy tuck)
  • UCF 3/8" aluminum engine skid
  • Currie rear track bar with angled relocation bracket
  • New radio aw yeah
  • BDS Front LCA miniskids
Future plans:
  1. Working on dialing in the TT and finalizing all the resulting work from that. My plan is to lay low on mods this season and give myself a chance to enjoy it and find shortcomings since I did a fairly significant amount of work over the winter.
  2. I have a feeling sliders/armour is likely going to be my next step. I'll need new fenders or a 4" lift to go up to a bigger tire size
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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Going in now is a 2" BDS suspension lift.
1628822575612.png

As well as a HP Dana 30 I picked up for 200$ with 136k, end to end. I originally planned on regearing since my carrier gears/bearing races in my LP Dana 30 look like this (screwed, as far as I can tell):
1628822474294.png
1628822490257.png

I know I was asking about gears recently and I appreciate the advice I was given for sure. But I guess I balked at the idea of spending 2-4k on axles (the jeep was only 5k...) when I wasn't sure how "committed" I was to wheeling yet. So a 200$ axle with way less miles is a good stopgap while I think that one over - and a slight upgrade at least.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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I was just looking for your build, woohoo! Congrats :)

Let me know if I can be of any help, I’m in highlands ranch! Can’t wait to read what you do.
Thanks! Definitely appreciated, sometimes you just need a second pair of eyes/hands. But yeah, it's kinda just starting! But I am happy I wheeled for a year before dumping money into upgrades. I was extremely surprised by what a stock TJ is capable of, and think I can spot out marketing vs. improvements a bit better now. Thanks to the forum mostly
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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My LCAs came in today!
1629602229334.png

They look pretty heavy duty! I've got the new axle and lift in the front installed.

1629602273881.png


I'm having trouble with my lunchbox locker tire test, I think.

I have one tire on the ground, another in the air. I'm turning the tire in the air in 1st gear, 4LO. It seems to be locked, but I'm pretty sure it should turn to pass the test. It has turned a few times before locking, although even when I was really getting the tire going when unlocked it'd catch and stop for a second before continuing turning. I'm not sure what the problem could be. I checked tolerances required for the Aussie locker using a feeler gauge and everything was within spec. I've checked all the pins/springs are in the right places and oriented correctly (step/nipple of pin visible inside spring between cam gears).

It appears the cam gear on the driver side isn't disengaging to "ratchet" like it should. The passenger side will disengage easily. I can easily pass this test with the TCase in 2HI/Nuetral but I don't think that's the test, right?

I'm not sure what's going on here. Any ideas? I came across a thread somewhere that someones issue was that the grease they used to stick things together in the build was strong enough the cam gears weren't disengaging correctly. Maybe that's my issue, since I have had it turn and "pass" the test a few times?
 
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Apparition

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I’m unfamiliar with lunchbox lockers but I was under the impression if it’s in 4x4 then it locks so you shouldn’t be able to rotate a tire when one is on the ground and in 4x4.

If you Jack up both sides, they should both rotate forward in 4x4 and rotate opposite if in 2WD.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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1629603080540.png

Here's the instructions... maybe I'm misinterpreting?

Yeah it seems like if it unlocks in 2wd I'm fine driving it around town... and if it locks in 4wd that's the point... So it seems okay. But, it also seems like I am not passing this test. I think I was able to do it in my old axle but it's been a while
 

Apparition

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View attachment 272280
Here's the instructions... maybe I'm misinterpreting?

Yeah it seems like if it unlocks in 2wd I'm fine driving it around town... and if it locks in 4wd that's the point... So it seems okay. But, it also seems like I am not passing this test. I think I was able to do it in my old axle but it's been a while
Sounds like you need both tires in the air and two people to test that.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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Sounds like you need both tires in the air and two people to test that.
I guess step 2 might not be the same if it's not held against the driveshaft. I'll see if I can get a friend out.

Finishing the back half of the lift tomorrow should be easy. Then it's on to the sleeping platform
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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Alright I got my lift in with the new axle! Definitely the biggest job I've done on the jeep so far. So this included...
  • All 4 front ball joints with Spicer
  • new-to-me axle (HP30 w/ 136k)
  • lunchbox moved to new axle
  • 2" BDS lift
  • core4x4 tier 2 LCA front
seems like a lot! I also had the OME rear trackbar bracket but I couldn't fit my drill where I needed it. You can tell the rear axle is off center, surprisingly the front doesn't look offcenter. I'll either buy an adjustable trackbar or a 90* turn for a drill... but I feel like I might as well go with the adjustable if I'm gonna spend money on/for the track bar.

I just need to bleed the front brakes tomorrow and I should be ready for the test drive! Good timing, I am hitting Medano pass on 8/27 so I'm happy it's about ready for a test drive early.

excuse my tiny garage
1629691769009.png


1629691826796.png


I'm pretty happy with the way it looks, looks like the tires "fit" now. I am excited to see how it feels with new springs, quality shocks, new bushings in the front axle, and the core4x4 arms. As long as I didn't screw anything up, I bet it'll feel really nice
 

deadbeat son

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Denver, CO
Alright I got my lift in with the new axle! Definitely the biggest job I've done on the jeep so far. So this included...
  • All 4 front ball joints with Spicer
  • new-to-me axle (HP30 w/ 136k)
  • lunchbox moved to new axle
  • 2" BDS lift
  • core4x4 tier 2 LCA front
seems like a lot! I also had the OME rear trackbar bracket but I couldn't fit my drill where I needed it. You can tell the rear axle is off center, surprisingly the front doesn't look offcenter. I'll either buy an adjustable trackbar or a 90* turn for a drill... but I feel like I might as well go with the adjustable if I'm gonna spend money on/for the track bar.

I just need to bleed the front brakes tomorrow and I should be ready for the test drive! Good timing, I am hitting Medano pass on 8/27 so I'm happy it's about ready for a test drive early.

excuse my tiny garage
View attachment 272601

View attachment 272602

I'm pretty happy with the way it looks, looks like the tires "fit" now. I am excited to see how it feels with new springs, quality shocks, new bushings in the front axle, and the core4x4 arms. As long as I didn't screw anything up, I bet it'll feel really nice

FWIW - I went with Harbor Freight's 90* adapter to fit my OME bracket. It did the trick quickly and easily. With OME coils, the rear axle is centered and the front is 3/8" off center. One word of caution - if you go with an aftermarket adjustable bar on either end, you may run into clearance issues requiring additional bumpstop to mitigate interference.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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FWIW - I went with Harbor Freight's 90* adapter to fit my OME bracket. It did the trick quickly and easily. With OME coils, the rear axle is centered and the front is 3/8" off center. One word of caution - if you go with an aftermarket adjustable bar on either end, you may run into clearance issues requiring additional bumpstop to mitigate interference.
Hmmm. I thought that the reverse was the case - I thought I had read that the OME trackbar bracket raises the bracket so you need extra bumpstop to prevent it from denting the tub. How does an adjustable bar reduce clearance if it doesn't change where the brackets are?
 

deadbeat son

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Hmmm. I thought that the reverse was the case - I thought I had read that the OME trackbar bracket raises the bracket so you need extra bumpstop to prevent it from denting the tub. How does an adjustable bar reduce clearance if it doesn't change where the brackets are?

Yes, that's true. I run a 1.5" bumpstop spacer to prevent the bracket from hitting the tub, and also to prevent bottoming out the shocks. However, you could potentially run into even more issues with an adjustable track bar hitting the fuel tank or differential.

I didn't buy the bumpstop extensions until after installing the suspension and cycling and measuring to determine exactly what I needed.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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Yes, that's true. I run a 1.5" bumpstop spacer to prevent the bracket from hitting the tub, and also to prevent bottoming out the shocks. However, you could potentially run into even more issues with an adjustable track bar hitting the fuel tank or differential.

I didn't buy the bumpstop extensions until after installing the suspension and cycling and measuring to determine exactly what I needed.
Is that because they have a different bend than stock?

I still need to check bumpstop. I am going to buy some hockey pucks soon and use those lol isn't that what people do
 

deadbeat son

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Is that because they have a different bend than stock?

I still need to check bumpstop. I am going to buy some hockey pucks soon and use those lol isn't that what people do
Yes, it’s due to a different bend than stock. I know front bars won’t clear where the stock bars will. I’m a little unsure on the rears, but I believe it would be worth the research. I’d hate to install something to find out it has clearance issues.

Hockey pucks for front seem to be the norm, but I thought cup extensions we standard for rear. No reason I can think of that a puck won’t work there too.
 
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lBasket

lBasket

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Got the front brakes bled today. No photos unfortunately, but took the jeep out and it feels pretty good! Needs an alignment I think and the steering is off center but that's it and it's ready for the trip this weekend!

Yes, it’s due to a different bend than stock. I know front bars won’t clear where the stock bars will. I’m a little unsure on the rears, but I believe it would be worth the research. I’d hate to install something to find out it has clearance issues.

Hockey pucks for front seem to be the norm, but I thought cup extensions we standard for rear. No reason I can think of that a puck won’t work there too.
So is this clearance issue only resolvable with a relocation bracket? Or does it go away at higher lifts?