Basket's Build

Radical Hill has one moderate obstacle, but lockers would help a good bit for it. The rest is just a pucker fest! You may find goats too, which is pretty fun.
I have a front locker, I should probably try it out now i'd probably do just fine. I like seeing the goats, we saw a group on Saturday with a few babies they were pretty cute. It's cool to see them walk on the cliffsides
 
  • Like
Reactions: rasband
Why is it harder to get more travel with the smaller tire, everything else equal? Seems like it'd be easier due to clearance, but mostly the same. I'm not married to 31s but not in a hurry to get bigger tires (seems like I need more flex/less vibes/better breakover angle over diff clearance where I've been so far?) until my new ones start wearing out.

So I figured if I had a TT with 31s with 1.25" BL and 2" SL, if my 31s wore out or I got tired of them I could move straight to 33s, and 35s with more a SL. Seems like the TT mandates most of the mods that also are required for running larger tire sizes. Is that right, or am i missing something?

More lift height allows for more shock travel. Larger tires let you get into places where increased travel becomes useful. That being said, lockers make big shock travel less important.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob and lBasket
Why is it harder to get more travel with the smaller tire, everything else equal? Seems like it'd be easier due to clearance, but mostly the same. I'm not married to 31s but not in a hurry to get bigger tires (seems like I need more flex/less vibes/better breakover angle over diff clearance where I've been so far?) until my new ones start wearing out.
Having just gone through a 31" tire, overkill, build, the primary limiting factor I found centered around the springs themselves. In the 0 - 2.5" lift range the free lengths of the springs don't really allow for lots of travel. Generally, you're looking at 20" and under free lengths for the front and 15" or less in the rear. By comparison, a Currie 4" spring has 22.6 front and up to 18.25 in the rear. The height and free length of the longer springs gives the ability for more travel. Sure, you could run a 31" tire on a 4" spring, but the distance between the tire and bottom of the flare would look silly, IMHO. To me, the height difference between a 31" and 33" tire in nominal. The real value in a 33 is that you can run longer free length springs.

That said, the other major limiting factor is shock choices. In the 0 - 2.5" range shock choices are pretty sparse. Most run around 8" of travel, with one or two creeping to 9". For those that are longer, usable travel becomes a problem, given where the vehicle will sit at ride height.

Other factors like track bars and track bar brackets come into play as well. I ended up running a Currie rear trackbar and relocation bracket with my 2.5" lift. My setup also incorporated a Currie trackbar up front. This was necessary because I did a Savvy UA. Getting everything to work was a challenge. There was lots of suspension cycling, grinding for clearance, and of course bump stops involved. Sorry for the long post, but the bottom line is you can make it work. However, you have to be willing to spend both the money and effort to do it correctly.
 
In my case, the original intention was to run 33s while building for 35s even if I never went to that size tire.

This was my approach as well. When I finally made the jump to 35s, all I really had to add was a better brake set. 33s were fun, and you really had to think about your line choice on the trail.

@lBasket , I think you are off to a great start with a TT, realizing you need armor, the importance of bumpstops and adding lockers. Ultimately, what trails are you wanting to tackle? A well built rig on 33s can tackle 90% of the trails that CO has to offer.

 
Having just gone through a 31" tire, overkill, build, the primary limiting factor I found centered around the springs themselves. In the 0 - 2.5" lift range the free lengths of the springs don't really allow for lots of travel. Generally, you're looking at 20" and under free lengths for the front and 15" or less in the rear. By comparison, a Currie 4" spring has 22.6 front and up to 18.25 in the rear. The height and free length of the longer springs gives the ability for more travel. Sure, you could run a 31" tire on a 4" spring, but the distance between the tire and bottom of the flare would look silly, IMHO. To me, the height difference between a 31" and 33" tire in nominal. The real value in a 33 is that you can run longer free length springs.

That said, the other major limiting factor is shock choices. In the 0 - 2.5" range shock choices are pretty sparse. Most run around 8" of travel, with one or two creeping to 9". For those that are longer, usable travel becomes a problem, given where the vehicle will sit at ride height.

Other factors like track bars and track bar brackets come into play as well. I ended up running a Currie rear trackbar and relocation bracket with my 2.5" lift. My setup also incorporated a Currie trackbar up front. This was necessary because I did a Savvy UA. Getting everything to work was a challenge. There was lots of suspension cycling, grinding for clearance, and of course bump stops involved. Sorry for the long post, but the bottom line is you can make it work. However, you have to be willing to spend both the money and effort to do it correctly.


Okay so the issue with 31s isn't really the tires themselves, but the limitations of the build that can support them. I can run the 2" lift with 31s just fine, but I don't have much options there because of spring free lengths (they'll drop out of the perch before I get much travel) and shock lengths (high-travel shocks will have too much body for the lift and won't have the correct travel split?). Then, if you overcome those limitations, you've built for 33s. You can stay on 31s all you want but what's the point.

I need to do some more reading on track bars and relocation brackets it sounds like. The implications/reasons for them beyond "it centers your axle to the frame" I don't understand and sounds like there is more to it than that.

This was my approach as well. When I finally made the jump to 35s, all I really had to add was a better brake set. 33s were fun, and you really had to think about your line choice on the trail.

@lBasket , I think you are off to a great start with a TT, realizing you need armor, the importance of bumpstops and adding lockers. Ultimately, what trails are you wanting to tackle? A well built rig on 33s can tackle 90% of the trails that CO has to offer.

I know I'm trying to err on the side of tires too small than too big, so I think it'd be nice to already be there if I decide to buy new tires. 5 new 31s weren't cheap though so I'm not in a huge hurry to get rid of some good tires just to look cool, or whatever.

What trails am I wanting to tackle/build for is a good question. I didn't think I'd be into rock crawling until I went to Moab. Every time I do a trail that was too difficult for me or my build in the past, I enjoy it and am just looking for more. I have a feeling I will end up on 35s down the road since I enjoy doing the build as much as driving it. But, being able to do "almost all the trails out here in CO" is probably a good general description of what I'm hoping to end up at.
 
Okay so the issue with 31s isn't really the tires themselves, but the limitations of the build that can support them. I can run the 2" lift with 31s just fine, but I don't have much options there because of spring free lengths (they'll drop out of the perch before I get much travel) and shock lengths (high-travel shocks will have too much body for the lift and won't have the correct travel split?). Then, if you overcome those limitations, you've built for 33s. You can stay on 31s all you want but what's the point.

I need to do some more reading on track bars and relocation brackets it sounds like. The implications/reasons for them beyond "it centers your axle to the frame" I don't understand and sounds like there is more to it than that.


I know I'm trying to err on the side of tires too small than too big, so I think it'd be nice to already be there if I decide to buy new tires. 5 new 31s weren't cheap though so I'm not in a huge hurry to get rid of some good tires just to look cool, or whatever.

What trails am I wanting to tackle/build for is a good question. I didn't think I'd be into rock crawling until I went to Moab. Every time I do a trail that was too difficult for me or my build in the past, I enjoy it and am just looking for more. I have a feeling I will end up on 35s down the road since I enjoy doing the build as much as driving it. But, being able to do "almost all the trails out here in CO" is probably a good general description of what I'm hoping to end up at.
There isn't a problem with 31s until you find that they aren't tall enough to get the axles through the terrain you like to drive through.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
There isn't a problem with 31s until you find that they aren't tall enough to get the axles through the terrain you like to drive through.
Yeah. Guess there isn't any way to find that out except for wheeling trails that I think are at the edge of what I/the jeep are ready for.

I ought to just wheel the jeep where I want and build it where necessary. Wheeling it only where I think it's "ready" is probably just gonna keep me from finding what's next in the build and what I like to drive over
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw and Apparition
Yeah. Guess there isn't any way to find that out except for wheeling trails that I think are at the edge of what I/the jeep are ready for.

I ought to just wheel the jeep where I want and build it where necessary. Wheeling it only where I think it's "ready" is probably just gonna keep me from finding what's next in the build and what I like to drive over
As long as you don't strand yourself somewhere or put yourself in an unsafe situation. Push the limits.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tworley and rasband
As long as you don't strand yourself somewhere or put yourself in an unsafe situation. Push the limits.
Yeah, I should've lost that attitude after it surprised me in Moab honestly. But I guess it feels more reliable now that I've replaced so much and don't have to think about my front axle grenading, that was always kinda in the back of my mind (didn't help it always made noise so you can't forget).

I'm gonna see how I do at China Wall before it's too late in the season since the parental units live 15mins away. My impression of that is it's a lot closer to "rock crawling" than the stuff I normally do so it's probably a good spot to really test it
 
  • Like
Reactions: Apparition
Anyways I'm finally back now that the semester has ended. Happy to be thinking about the jeep again finally.

Here's a pic from my trip to China Wall in September:
eGX0fKOka9fmbvtXQ0S8dJiQ=w1919-h1080-no?authuser=0.jpg


It was a fun trail, this section was technical and fun. There is the other tough obstacle where you make that turn going on the offcamber hill if anyone knows it... got nervous doing it alone and turned around. Guess I need to go back
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw and Apparition
I started building a platform for sleeping in the Jeep last weekend. I've been sleeping in it with just blankets piled in the passenger seat which doesn't work well. I measured the tailgate to the front of the wheelwell to be somewhere around 7'... so plenty of space!

I used 3/4" MDF and pressure treated 2x4s from the "warped bin" from home depot. I know MDF won't hold up well if it gets too wet, but with the price plywood was I figured it's worth trying it out with some sealant. I doubled up the legs to reduce wobble. Marine grade carpet is on the way for the final touch, looks pretty slippery for the dog without it. The holes drilled into the board are so I can tie it down to the tub where the stock jack normally goes, figured that's enough + the weight to keep it from going anywhere.

Stock sleeping location (not comfy):
HTVnLZWrUXyNT2X-S8mMVE9nsw=w508-h960-no?authuser=0.jpg


The fit (like a glove):
UD8l-JQSt0JhQAjbaqq2mqsg=w1086-h1930-no?authuser=0.jpg


Slapping on some water sealant:
YvtFEkm5CRfi49Ga32EHtP9Q=w1086-h1930-no?authuser=0.jpg
vanuVmLRnJVUU61HoZE7yC1g=w1086-h1930-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Heading out to Moab on the 28th, some buddies are biking White Rim Road and have permits and invited me... I think I'm just there to be the "sag wagon", but hard to say no if they already have permits!

In prep for the trip is to figure out a coolant leak I have going on. It's dripping down my lower rad hose, I've got a replacement that I bought when my upper rotted out, figured I'd need it eventually. I think I read the water pump will leak over there through it's weep hole if it's dying though... Guess I've got some research to do. Hopefully it's just an old hose.

Threads are no fun without pics, here's a gross leak:
yuVGDL2Jy3SPzsF-fDbnrAyg=w1086-h1930-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Anyways I'm finally back now that the semester has ended. Happy to be thinking about the jeep again finally.

Here's a pic from my trip to China Wall in September:
View attachment 285195

It was a fun trail, this section was technical and fun. There is the other tough obstacle where you make that turn going on the offcamber hill if anyone knows it... got nervous doing it alone and turned around. Guess I need to go back
Holler when you decide to go back if you want someone to join. Did you take the other trail down to the wall?
 
Heading out to Moab on the 28th, some buddies are biking White Rim Road and have permits and invited me... I think I'm just there to be the "sag wagon", but hard to say no if they already have permits!

In prep for the trip is to figure out a coolant leak I have going on. It's dripping down my lower rad hose, I've got a replacement that I bought when my upper rotted out, figured I'd need it eventually. I think I read the water pump will leak over there through it's weep hole if it's dying though... Guess I've got some research to do. Hopefully it's just an old hose.

Threads are no fun without pics, here's a gross leak:
View attachment 285207
That hose looks bubbly in places. Also, a constant tension clamp is better than a hose clamp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
That hose looks bubbly in places. Also, a constant tension clamp is better than a hose clamp.
Yeah that hose looks pretty bad... wonder if it's just age or if it's been sitting there soaking something up. Any idea what specs I need to be sure I get the right tension clamp to replace that?
 
Things have been slow here but I'm still thinking about the Jeep like every day, lol. I bought a minivan to daily so that the jeep can live where it belongs, in the garage except when I'm wheeling. Nothin' like driving a dad's minivan as a single young guy

Next on the build is a SSYE and double cardan driveshaft. I can't really take the dog in the jeep on the highway he haaaates the vibes so I need to do it this winter. JB Conversions seem to be out of stock I think I read about a waitlist. Guess I'm going to try to get on that, they haven't returned any calls so far that I've tried.