Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

[FarFire70]

Not that it matters now but you didn't have to "steal" the design, I've sent out several and you would have been welcome to one as well.

You were so helpful on so many other fronts (to be covered as I fill in the updates) that I didn't feel right asking (even though I have no doubt you would have been glad to ship one out). I had already picked up some steel for my own stock so I butchered up my own best attempt (first real fabrication effort for me on this Jeep, too). Appreciate you designing one to 'steal'

Can't say enough on your helpfulness to me on this build!

 

[FarFire70]

Starting June:

Started installing the BMB Vanco 16” kit (fit with my 15” steelies).

When you install the bearing… Install the axle first. Got ahead of myself on the driver side...

Size comparison of the BMB to stock fronts (no real comparison):

Brakes installed (Beautiful!):

Extended soft lines installed too. Brake system is new all around from the proportioning block all the way to the pads.

 

[FarFire70]

June:

Tires installed for the first time in 2 years!

Front springs comparison. I ran 2" BB pucks for a while and then JKS ACOS at about 2.5" with 33s. This is 150k+ miles so the stock springs obviously aren't original height. And different spring rates on new springs... but it seems obligatory to compare...

 

[FarFire70]

June:

Rear axle went in. Putting the jack stands up on the movers dollies was a great system.

Next time I would bungy or zip tie the jack stands to the dollies for easier manipulation of the axle without risk of the stands tipping on the dollies. Didn’t fall over but did get close when I went to hook up the control arms.

Aluminum foil on the brake lines was a tip I grabbed, pretty sure from a @hosejockey61 video on YT.

Obligatory rear spring comparison:

I didn’t get a great shot once Homer was back on all 4 wheels but here he is on his shoes:

You can tell a bit how long he’s been on the stands:

 

[mrblaine]

June:

Rear axle went in. Putting the jack stands up on the movers dollies was a great system.

Next time I would bungy or zip tie the jack stands to the dollies for easier manipulation of the axle without risk of the stands tipping on the dollies. Didn’t fall over but did get close when I went to hook up the control arms.

Aluminum foil on the brake lines was a tip I grabbed, pretty sure from a @hosejockey61 video on YT.

View attachment 451859

View attachment 451860

Obligatory rear spring comparison:
View attachment 451861

I didn’t get a great shot once Homer was back on all 4 wheels but here he is on his shoes:

View attachment 451862

You can tell a bit how long he’s been on the stands:

View attachment 451863

View attachment 451864

What is the aluminum foil used for?

 

[FarFire70]

What is the aluminum foil used for?

Keep dust & grinding dust out of the lines before I got to the calipers install.

 

[FarFire70]

June:

Before I put on the wheels and had not yet cycled & centered the axles, I tried to get the steering close to straight.

This was a mistake. It fought me and I just the pipe wrench I used on the stock/ZJ-upgrade tie rod. Pretty good damage on the drag link adjustor & tie rod ( that gray strip on the tie rod is where the paint worn thru but the primer held strong).

I got it 'close' at that point.

Then once I got around to setting the axles, the adjusters turned by hand and/or a small (less indenting grab) use of the pipe wrench. The pre-axle setting position was WAY off...

Lesson learned to wait on setting the steering until the axles were set...

 

[hosejockey61]

Aluminum foil on the brake lines was a tip I grabbed, pretty sure from a @hosejockey61 video on YT.

I don't use it on the brake line as I have threaded caps for those. I use it on the fuel line when dropping the fuel tank. For example, when relocating spring perches or outboarding. I use it to keep grinding dust and crap out of the line. Foil is just easy to use and discard. Form fits well.

 

[FarFire70]

June:

As alluded to, @mrblaine was great to work with throughout this build. Picked up a lot of BMB upgrades during the build but Blaine helped me out like he does so many others.

Knowing I needed to bench bleed the master for the full brake system replacement from the block to the calipers, I saw where Blaine mentioned here on WTJF that he willing to help those who needed them. So I asked if he could include a set when he sent back the tie rod flipped knuckle and he included a set at no cost.

—-

As I went through checking out fitment of the TC skid, I started getting confused on the proper bolt size.

I had removed 1/2” bolts but the BMB was mentioning that the 03-06 are metrics. So I reached out to Blaine to check on what was the right bolt. He acknowledged that, at the time a few years back when I replaced my OEM TC nutserts with BMB, they were having trouble getting the metric so they shipped SAE.

The SAE worked great since installing but now I was concerned I may have cross threaded them by driving in metric and SAE bolts.

@mrblaine sent me a new set of metric nutserts at no charge nor further question – and included hit new nutsert install tool.

Blaine is a stand up guy who is willing to help people out (without any benefit to himself) and stand by his products. I’m glad we have him in our community.

—-

Now on the install, I wanted to confirm a good nutsert crush – So I pulled out my USB mini scope, and dropped it in the frame to watch the compression. I trusted the torque feel for the ‘done’ level when torquing but the camera confirmed the nutsert was compressing as expected.

(This wasn't a picture at full compression.. just a representative pic of what I was looking to make sure was happening within the frame)

 

[FarFire70]

June:

With the axles in, I flexed all the corners. to check clearances.

The rear lowers we threaded as short as they could go to try get the axle centered in the wheel well.

Rear passenger was the tightest fit and needs more bumpstop added before I flex it offroad.

Driver side fit great and bumpstops were the perfect height.

Trackbar, diff cover, and all the lines and components look great at flex – no interference.

Flexing the front.

 

[mrblaine]

June:

As alluded to, @mrblaine was great to work with throughout this build. Picked up a lot of BMB upgrades during the build but Blaine helped me out like he does so many others.

Knowing I needed to bench bleed the master for the full brake system replacement from the block to the calipers, I saw where Blaine mentioned here on WTJF that he willing to help those who needed them. So I asked if he could include a set when he sent back the tie rod flipped knuckle and he included a set at no cost.

View attachment 456180

—-

As I went through checking out fitment of the TC skid, I started getting confused on the proper bolt size.

I had removed 1/2” bolts but the BMB was mentioning that the 03-06 are metrics. So I reached out to Blaine to check on what was the right bolt. He acknowledged that, at the time a few years back when I replaced my OEM TC nutserts with BMB, they were having trouble getting the metric so they shipped SAE.

The SAE worked great since installing but now I was concerned I may have cross threaded them by driving in metric and SAE bolts.

@mrblaine sent me a new set of metric nutserts at no charge nor further question – and included hit new nutsert install tool.

Blaine is a stand up guy who is willing to help people out (without any benefit to himself) and stand by his products. I’m glad we have him in our community.

—-

Now on the install, I wanted to confirm a good nutsert crush – So I pulled out my USB mini scope, and dropped it in the frame to watch the compression. I trusted the torque feel for the ‘done’ level when torquing but the camera confirmed the nutsert was compressing as expected.

View attachment 456181
(This wasn't a picture at full compression.. just a representative pic of what I was looking to make sure was happening within the frame)

Thanks for the nice words. My attitude stems from me just needing some oddball bits of help or small part now and again and almost never being able to get either. If a few small bits here and there help someone's day go better, that makes it all worth it.

 

[FarFire70]

Thanks for the nice words. My attitude stems from me just needing some oddball bits of help or small part now and again and almost never being able to get either. If a few small bits here and there help someone's day go better, that makes it all worth it.

I get that and the help you gave with the knuckle, master screws, and TC kit made all the different. They were a small part in this build but each made the Jeep better and I would have been very delayed trying to find solutions otherwise.

 

[FarFire70]

July:

July was a busy month balancing home projects, family, and must get the Jeep driving.

Emission inspection was required by Aug 2 – or my registration would be revoked and Homer would need to go back through safety inspect (only required at the time of registration here).

So there was no option but to get him driving. This meant a lot of understanding from my wife with me spending weekends and weeknights in the garage slamming on getting this build drivable.

—-

With the suspension in place, I measured for shocks and ordered Skyjacker Black Max.

Front: B8549 (which SJ says is for 6”-9” lift but were a perfect 50%/50% for my 4” lift)

Rear: B8563 (which SJ says is for 6”-8” lift – also a good 50%/50% for my setup)

Amazon decided to send me what looked like used rear shocks in very damaged boxes... So they went back and Summit came through with new rears.

While I waited on the rears, the house work called and my brother-in-law helped me dig in a dry well to stop our backyard from flooding from the sump pump and downspout run-off:

The clay really got the better of us so we sacrificed the last 6" and used an exacto to help get the well at lawn height

—-

Getting back to the Jeep and with Summit delivery here, shocks went in:

I've read about everyone trimming the rear lower spring mount - With the SJ Black Max mounting inverted, I figured I'd assess it once the Jeep was moving and I flexed it.

Foreshadowing to later in the month... on the first drive, the moment I dropped off the driveway onto our street — CLUNK.

Our driveway has a rounded curbing to the street and that little drop was enough to hit the shocks into the mounts. No damage to the shocks but the mounts needed to be cleared before that first drive...

—-

I've been using my rethreading kit a LOT during this build and I love it because it really makes a huge difference in cleaning up threads.

Well, the driver rear shock bolt in the frame decided it wasn't having it...

—-

I knew I would need a new rear driveshaft but I figured "while I'm here" - so I ordered a new front as well...

 

[FarFire70]

July:

House work called again and the deck floor needed a fresh coat of stain before our twins' birthday party.

Then back to Homer and finally getting to the brake system. Using the screws from @mrblaine, I was able to quickly bench bleed the master. I had never done this before and was a little worried getting it right but it was super easy.

I also used BMB lock-out tool to be sure it went smoothly.

I then went after bleeding the system. I first did a gravity bleed by using a one-man brake bleed on one caliper at a time and putting it at height above the master to keep from overflowing the kit.

I figured it would take a while but it was way faster per corner than I expected - minutes after the bleeders was opened the gravity bleed was complete.

After this, my wife helped out with a pedal bleed. We did it once and then let it sit overnight and did it again.

Word of advise - the Classic Tubes stainless are great. ... Except for the rear axle (even though I selected for a Dana 44) and from the master to the proportioning block. So I ordered Crown lines for the rear and re-used the OEM lines on the master.

—-

Next the Anti-Rock went in. Took a little work with a flap disc on the inserts but was fairly easy to install.

I went with the additional plastic washers from McMaster-Carr that @mrblaine recommends (91545A390) and they put the arms perfectly at the end of the bar.

Washers:

Installed:

 

[FarFire70]

July:

And then the inner fenders finally went in! He's coming together!

 

[FarFire70]

July:

Mid-July became slow for the build as the boy's turned 1 years old! And we then hosted about 35 people for their birthday - Of course we went with the obligatory Dr. Seuss theme with Thing 1 & Thing 2.

—-

Then it was back to the Jeep. Remember - we're on a deadline and August is just around the corner...

Mounted all the parts and components to the new inner fenders.

OEM airbox wasn't going to fit - and this thing needs to drive to set the emissions controls. So a solution was found:

Had to bend the A/C lines slightly. Got it pretty close to where I wanted it and didn't want to bent it any more and risk a crack. It was off the fender but close enough that I figured under engine movement it could make occasional contact so I added a little protection.

Had to trim the front outer corner of both the battery tray and the driver side tray.

 

[FarFire70]

19 July:

Getting really close. Had a lot buttoned up. Front bumper back on (to have the license plate that's required). Mounted the fog light wiring to the fenders. Installed the new dual-use marker/turn signals from Metal Cloak.

I originally just put the signal lights in without wiring them - figuring I just needed them in place for the drive to the emission center. But I decided better of it on Saturday and wired them up.

We're so close!!

 

[FarFire70]

22 July:

Started the day determined!

Got the mini cats, cat, & muffler installed.

I couldn't get the downpipe to push far enough into the extension to the big mid-Jeep cat. I didn't feel comfortable the included clamp would seal. So I decided to weld it.

It was a good choice because it was after I had all the pipes installed that I realized the clamp was still on the floor... And I wasn't pulling all that crap back out again. (ugh! Exhaust - one of the banes of my existing when working on cars.)

It was a lot of blind welding so the phone camera came in handy. Weld, pic, weld, pic, ...

Putting the catback pipe on was a pain but I was able snake it through with the muffler attached.

Then I found the muffler is rusted and about to break open at the rear seam...

So I ordered a Banks catback that's here awaiting install (likely over the winter).

Not loving how close the muffler is to the TC skid. I would have removed it and clearanced that some but I'll wait to see what the new catback looks like. It didn't make contact/noise on the first drive...

 

[FarFire70]

22 July:

Final touch was to final torque some of the suspension components. When I got to the rear trackbar, the nut on the bolt at the axle just spun. Wouldn't tighten and wouldn't back off - seemed like it stripped the threads at one spot on the bolt (I thought perhaps it had bottomed out and then stripped the threads when I torqued it to spec.)

Either way - This Jeep was doing to drive! This one bolt wasn't going to stop me. I couldn't source one locally at 8.8 strength. So, out came the problem solver...

I just need the thing to drive long enough to set the emissions controls and drive to the test center. Then I can park him and get things right.

My wife helped hold the rear fenders so I could mark their locations and then I went to town installing nutserts with my new nutsert tool (love it! so easy to install)

—-

It was finally time to start the Jeep for the first time in 2.5 years! Turned the key multiple times without starting to prime the new fuel pump & lines.

And after a first 5-8 sec crank & no start... Gave it a moment and gave it another try and... HE STARTED UP!! And no CEL!

Gave him time to warm up and burn off some of the oils, etc on the exhaust. Then we were off — backed him out of the garage and to the street and BANG...

Like I said a few posts ago - rear shocks hit the spring mounts... so pulled him back into the driveway and did a quick trim.

 

[FarFire70]

22 July:

After the spring mount trim - we were off. First drive with of the new build!

Got to a good long stretch just down the road and broke in the BMB pads, per instructions. Then got to driving to see how I did on the build.

And DAMN!!! - this thing is twitchy and darty as hell. I knew it wouldn't drive like it did on the BB & 33s but this thing was all over the place on the back roads.

Drove about 10 minutes on back roads and then needed to stop to get fuel as he only had a couple gallons in the tank.

Drives like crap but looks good!

After a white-knuckle drive a few miles to home, I checked and he had all but 2 emissions controls set. Can only pass with at most 1 control un-set.

—-

After letting Homer sit for a few hours and doing some work around the house, I checked again and one more emission control set (requires a full heat cycle of the engine to set some of them).

Despite being a white knuckle experience, I was determined to clear emissions testing and get that worry off my mind. So it was off to the emissions test center, white knuckle all the way and just trying to keep him under me (twitchy doesn't even begin to describe the experience). He could stay in his lane but I was terrified at times the rear end was going to come around on me...

That didn't matter. He made it to the self-test center and back in one piece.

And PASSED the emissions test!! Monkey off my back!!

Rest up Homer. You did it!