Aluminum Armor Finish?

[PNW_LJ]

Curious what folks are doing for a finish on their aluminum armor. Thinking raw, paintmatch, 3M scotch brite pad, etc.

Any finishes that seem to hide scratches better? Anyone leaving theirs raw in wet states like WA?


Advice and pics appreciated.

 

[PNW_LJ]

I feel I can get away with the raw look given mine’s silver:

But curious if a scotch brite finish like below can help hide the scratches/dings I’m starting to accumulate

 

[JpZombie]

Not much help, but I've seen people recommend "Sharkhide Metal Protectant" for aluminum armor and skid plates before.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I'm not big on the scotchbrite look but yeah, it would probably hide the scratches.

For my red one I would probably paint match (with powder coat) but for silver I'd probably go with raw. It does react with the atmosphere and lose the shine though, so maybe a clear powder.

 

[P man]

Raw

 

[JMT]

I feel I can get away with the raw look given mine’s silver:

View attachment 461008


But curious if a scotch brite finish like below can help hide the scratches/dings I’m starting to accumulate

View attachment 461009

It’s a lot of work to paint match. I’ve done it and very happy with mine. I can send you the procedures in an Excell document if you want.

For silver Jeep I’d keep them raw and wouldn’t put anything on them. If you want to work out some scratches use an orbital sander. The grit that matches GR fenders is between 220 and 400. I’d start with 120 to get the scratches out, then move to 220, see what you think, and go to 320 if you want more sheen. It’s fairly easy work.

Raw:

Color matched:

 

[NashvilleTJ]

You can definitely color match the aluminum corner armor, as Jeremy said. But to make it last it does take a good bit more prep than painting steel.

 

[PRNDL]

View attachment 461009

That's Catmechanic's TJ6 from JF. Which just happens to also be my old '01 TJ before the 6.0L, TJ6 stretch, and highlines - lol.

Sorry, back to the aluminum thing...

 

[PRNDL]

@starkey480 runs unpainted aluminum. I can't remember how he has his finished.

 

[starkey480]

@starkey480 runs unpainted aluminum. I can't remember how he has his finished.

I brushed all my aluminum with a scotch brite pad and WD40 on a sanding block. I did it so my aluminum from various brands all matched

 

[BlueC]

Be different, polish it.

That, or scotch pad it in nice straight lines.

 

[JMT]

Be different, polish it.
View attachment 461030

That, or scotch pad it in nice straight lines.

You can get that kind of finish just by upping the sandpaper incrementally to around 3500. Literally it will mirror out. Would be crazy bling, bling, but interesting and it works on that car. Hate to see the sunlight reflect off of it!

 

[JMT]

You can definitely color match the aluminum corner armor, as Jeremy said. But to make it last it does take a good bit more prep than painting steel.

View attachment 461021

The first time I took it on trail after the paint job, my passenger rear tire rubbed the edge of the armor and took the paint off the edge. The good thing is it's aluminum, so it won't rust, but it is a lot of work to prep and get a good paint job to begin with. The good thing about aluminum is its easier than steel to sand and get flat and scratch free. Once you get it that way you have to wipe it down with a vinegar and distilled water solution, then self-etch prime it, all within about 15-20 minutes so there's no flash corrosion. Once it's self-etched, you can treat it just like painting steel.

That's one thing about painting armor is making sure you leave the edges about 150 or 220 grit so that when you paint it gets a good bite on that edge, because if you don't then the most likely places the paint will chip are along the edge and edge face. The rest of it you sand to 400 grit.

I know you don't really need this Jeff, but it might help the OP.

 

[jjvw]

Mine will stay raw aluminum.

Now that I built the tub rails out of aluminum, I will go back and do some cleanup on the corner armor from the previous owner's installation. But nothing extravagant because I will add my own scuffs.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Mine will stay raw aluminum.
View attachment 461066

Damn, JJ - that's a ROTM shot right there. What a beautiful place where you live. Where is that - Ophir maybe?

 

[jjvw]

Damn, JJ - that's a ROTM shot right there. What a beautiful place where you live. Where is that - Ophir maybe?

Wheeler Lake. I entered it recently, but no one will vote for me anymore.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Wheeler Lake. I entered it recently, but no one will vote for me anymore.

Yeah, I wouldn't vote for you either - but I thought if I was nice to you, you might tell me the location of the photo...

 

[Apparition]

The first time I took it on trail after the paint job, my passenger rear tire rubbed the edge of the armor and took the paint off the edge. The good thing is it's aluminum, so it won't rust, but it is a lot of work to prep and get a good paint job to begin with. The good thing about aluminum is its easier than steel to sand and get flat and scratch free. Once you get it that way you have to wipe it down with a vinegar and distilled water solution, then self-etch prime it, all within about 15-20 minutes so there's no flash corrosion. Once it's self-etched, you can treat it just like painting steel.

That's one thing about painting armor is making sure you leave the edges about 150 or 220 grit so that when you paint it gets a good bite on that edge, because if you don't then the most likely places the paint will chip are along the edge and edge face. The rest of it you sand to 400 grit.

I know you don't really need this Jeff, but it might help the OP.

I believe Blaine has aluminum primer powdercoated and then top coats paint of whatever color

 

[PNW_LJ]

It does react with the atmosphere and lose the shine though, so maybe a clear powder.

Is that when it becomes a sort of off-white color? I’m thinking a polish once a year would keep it looking good.

 

[PNW_LJ]

You can definitely color match the aluminum corner armor, as Jeremy said. But to make it last it does take a good bit more prep than painting steel.

View attachment 461021

It’s a lot of work to paint match. I’ve done it and very happy with mine. I can send you the procedures in an Excell document if you want.

For silver Jeep I’d keep them raw and wouldn’t put anything on them. If you want to work out some scratches use an orbital sander. The grit that matches GR fenders is between 220 and 400. I’d start with 120 to get the scratches out, then move to 220, see what you think, and go to 320 if you want more sheen. It’s fairly easy work.

Raw:
View attachment 461016

Color matched:
View attachment 461017

View attachment 461018

Both of yours look amazing color matched.

How are you touching it up?