Full Tuck or Super 35 and Locker?

JMT

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We did another run today at an OHV park, slick, creek beds, mud, rocks, ledges, you name it, we did it. It made me re-evaluate the order of my upcoming mods. I had almost no problems on 33’s with 2 3/4” SL in front and 2 1/2” in rear and the 1.25” BL. I did get on my TCase skid once and hit my gas tank skid hard once. But as far as going over obstacles, I was able to crawl over stuff pretty easy.

So, more advantageous to do a full tuck with under armor or super 35 with e-locker and re-gear? I was planning the super 35, locker, re-gear first, but this trip got me to thinking the full tuck might be the better way to go first. What do you think?

Also planning Moab next year, so put that in your consideration.
 
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the tuck would be a great call...if you didnt have the 35. i'd definitely fix the rear end situation first because if you can slide over stuff and you still blow up that rear then you're stuck and sol until you can get it good enough to limp out. if you upgrade the rear end you can keep wheeling until such time you have money for a flat skid.
not sure that it'd be worth the super 35 kit, that's like lipstick on a pig. Search for a bolt in 44 or maybe a 9" as it seems people are moving away from the 8.8 swap nowadays, even a toyota 8" would be a step up from a 35
 
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the tuck would be a great call...if you didnt have the 35. i'd definitely fix the rear end situation first because if you can slide over stuff and you still blow up that rear then you're stuck and sol until you can get it good enough to limp out. if you upgrade the rear end you can keep wheeling until such time you have money for a flat skid.
not sure that it'd be worth the super 35 kit, that's like lipstick on a pig. Search for a bolt in 44 or maybe a 9" as it seems people are moving away from the 8.8 swap nowadays, even a toyota 8" would be a step up from a 35
The argument about the 35 could go on forever! LOL. But I agree it’s a hard choice. I’m not heavy on the accelerator. I don’t bounce and jounce around. So I thought, maybe I could get by for awhile on the 35.%^&*$#
 
yeah but then thats about $1000 if i remember right into an axle that would have zero further upgrade potential beyond that if needed. it's your call but in my mind it doesnt seem worth it.
 
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The super 35 kit is around 279, the e-locker and re-gear around 2000, so 2500 out the door tax title and license

The tuck would require the driveshaft, SYE, upper double adjustable control arms and under armor for engine and TCase, all together about 1650. I can do this work.

Also, Jerry Bransford and Blaine say the Super 35 is stronger than the 44, and more than up for running 35’s at Johnson Valley
 
Good position to be in, actually :D Being that you have a 35 and you plan on Moab, I would lean heavily on the S35 and re-gear. You can usually stack a rock or two for extra clearance under the skid but there is no cheating a stock 35.
 
Gears and lockers. Best upgrade ever. ...and a Super35 is worth it.
It's funny how I get two different answers on whether the S35 is worth it or not! Virtually every one is strongly on one side or the other. I kind of laugh, because we're all looking at the same data, and most issues are not this divisive. LOL
 
Re-gear and you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. The offroad benefit alone will amaze you.
See, here's my dilemma, I see obstacles I'm pretty sure I can do now WITHOUT a locker, but I won't do them because of clearance issues. Then again, that Dana 35 might break, but I don't get crazy on the skinny pedal. I'll bump here and there since I've learned through MTB that momentum is your friend, but these are small bumps just to keep moving, although I did get my driver front off the ground at one point. That was fun. Picture moment with no camera, which is par for the course...
 
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For me it was simple after I snapped 2 Dana 35 axles and having to fix on the trail. I did not want put lipstick on a pig and also did not want to break another shaft again so I opted for Dana 44 axle kit upgraded shafts, gears and lockers. I waited until I could afford them then I pulled the trigger.
 
For me it was simple after I snapped 2 Dana 35 axles and having to fix on the trail. I did not want put lipstick on a pig and also did not want to break another shaft again so I opted for Dana 44 axle kit upgraded shafts, gears and lockers. I waited until I could afford them then I pulled the trigger.
Ok, here's a good case in point. @JeepNWilly vs @StG58. One against, one for. But really, @JeepNWilly is against the Dana 35, not the Super35, though he is against polishing that turd up. But from all I read the Super35 with 30 spline shafts is stronger than the Dana 44. So, what's a man to do? ~75% of the off-road Jeep world hates the 35 period, the others do minor trails or say the Super 35 is a valid ticket. If I could do the Dana 44 for close to the same as the Super35, I'd do it, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere close.
 
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Ok, here's a good case in point. @JeepNWilly vs @StG58. One against, one for. But really, @JeepNWilly is against the Dana 35, not the Super35, though he is against polishing that turd up. But from all I read the Super35 with 30 spline shafts is stronger than the Dana 44. So, what's a man to do? ~75% of the off-road Jeep world hates the 35 period, the others do minor trails or say the Super 35 is a valid ticket. If I could do the Dana 44 for close to the same as the Super35, I'd do it, but I haven't been able to find it anywhere close.
I went with beefed up Dana 44 like I said I did not want to break another shaft lol I did 35 splines chromoly in the rear.
 
I went with beefed up Dana 44 like I said I did not want to break another shaft lol I did 35 splines chromoly in the rear.
With the 35 splines I think that makes it stronger than the Super35!
 
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I have good friends down here who have wheeled for many year of wheeling experience. They always told me wait until you can afford do it right the first time so I followed their advice with my axles I saved up and got me a complete set
 
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