Man the only 44s I can find on marketplace are either really bad shape 44s or overpriced 44s from grand junction getting listed in Denver by parts dealers.
Or just go with a S35.
Man the only 44s I can find on marketplace are either really bad shape 44s or overpriced 44s from grand junction getting listed in Denver by parts dealers.
Man the only 44s I can find on marketplace are either really bad shape 44s or overpriced 44s from grand junction getting listed in Denver by parts dealers.
Hey there this is my first of hopefully many posts on this forum. I have lurked forever and finally decided to create an account. I have been doing a lot of planning so I am sorry in advance if this is a ramble.
I have had my jeep since about 2010 it was my first vehicle (2000 Wrangler Sport 4.0L Manual Trans Dana 30/35, I wish I would've done my research and looked for a Rubicon or LJ) and I am finally getting around to actually getting some fun out of it now that I live in Colorado and it's not my daily driver. I had the frame repaired a year ago due to mid-west rust and it has been garage kept for about 5 years. I would like to do almost all of the work on my own because I have the time and I want to know my rig inside and out but I need some advice from the seasoned veterans on this site. I am kind of on a budget and like to do things in sizeable chunks when possible. The inspiration for my build is the one of the rigs Rokmen made several years back, Niblet Rising. Its a low CoG build with 37's, Dana 44's, RCV fronts, highline fenders, 2.5 in lift and 1 inch body lift.
Short Term Goal (I'm more focused on the important things instead of bumpers right now)
35's KM3 (because Costco sells them and 5 year warranty is nice)
Walker Evans Racing Beadlock Wheels (I am looking for the last wheel I will need to buy and I have heard great things about these)
Highline front fenders (possibly MetalCloak, I'll need the clearance but I am not a fan of the flat top HighLine Fenders, open to suggestions)
Re-gear to 4.88? (I think this is what I want but open to suggestions)
Rear Manual cable OX Locker (I know it might be controversial but I think the manual cable locker with the emergency plug is really cool)
Chromoly Front Shafts (27 spline or 30 spline not sure which could save money by keeping 27 fronts?)
Chromoly Rear Shafts (30 spline)
Tummy Tuck Skid
SYE Kit
Double Cardan Drive Shaft
Adjustable Control Arms (probably MetalCloak just because of price, open to suggestions)
Current Setup (if I didn't list it, it's probably stock)
32's old style KO2 (the sidewall is starting to split radially so my days are numbered)
2.5" HD Old Man Emu Shocks, springs and steering dampener
1" Rokmen Offroad Body Lift
M.O.R.E. 1" Motor Mount Lift
Rokmen Offroad Gas Tank Skid
'Custom' Brace Face Front Bumper (previous owner. I know, it's horrible)
'Custom' Rear Bumper (not nearly as bad as the front)
Stock Gearing (3.73 I assume?)
Dodge Durango steering gearbox
New upper and lower steering shaft (old one was siezed and wouldn't telescope leading to dangerous steering conditions and dead spots while turning)
1" steering shaft riser
No sway bar right now
Situation
I am currently running KO2 32's and they are well past their lifetime, the tread is fine but the sidewall is beginning to crack in a circle along the radius of the entire tire and I get worried that one day on the trail they will just give out with me airing down to trail pressure. That being said, I don't want to dump money into a brand new set of 32's when I know very soon I will want 35's... After reading so much I think I have an understanding on everything that goes along with 35's on a Dana 30/35 but I just need some help cutting it into chunks if possible. I also don't want to swap in TJ Rubicon Dana 44's because 1, they're so expensive and 2, If I'm going to swap axles I am going to go big to 1tons (no sense in doing it twice). But please tell me what you think and let me know what I missed!
TLDR
I have crap 32's that are way past their lifespan, I want 35's and a rear adjustable locker. Is there a good way for me to upgrade in chunks doing most/some of the work myself (re-gearing myself seems daunting but it has peaked my interest) while still beefing up my Jeep to handle 35's? Or is this going to be a take it to the shop with $5,000 to re-gear and everything else hinges on that type of deal.
my only issue now is trying to find the correct sized carrier bearings for that ‘larger’ carrier (upper end of the carrier break).
.... Ignore the Metalcloak haters. ...
As soon as I read post #23, I knew JJVW was on his wayYou can plainly see the hood line below the ugly arched fender.
I haven't been able to to justify 37's yet because my old girl goes wherever I need it to on 35's with a 3.5" Metalcloak short arm kit. I live about 90 minutes from the Rubicon and that's where I do most of my wheeling, day trips/overnights, etc. plus Fordyce, Slickrock, etc.
My personal thoughts...
1. I feel that a TJ on 35's is the sweet spot with the exception of dragging a rear bumper and/or a diff, both can be avoided by picking good lines, which is part of the fun. Bigger tires just make it boring in my opinion
2. Going to 37's can also create a laundry list of other things that need addressing (gearing, clearance, axle strength, stress on steering, balljoints, brakes, MPG's, etc)
BTW, I LOVE my arched fenders. Ignore the Metalcloak haters. More clearance on uptravel without having to cut and I have absolutely no rub at full stuff. I get LOTs of complements on the arched because they are unique and different than others on the market. It's personal preference, but mine work GREAT!
View attachment 479809
View attachment 479811
View attachment 479812
Your fenders are ugly. And they don't do what you think they do.
I'm glad you like them. Keep on spreading that love buddy.![]()
I do what I can to share and relay accurate tech, even if the includes correcting Metalcloak's lies![]()
Keep up the good work. People respect those who go out of their way to spread negativity. (said no one ever).
Your fenders create about an inch of clearance beyond stock fenders above the tire are they are ugly. Cutting the stock fenders back to the hood creates more clearance than Metalcloak does and is also ugly. Neither option creates useful clearance at the back of the wheel opening where clearance is more important than it is above.![]()
My original reply never said they were beautiful, just that I love them, they work good for me and I get lots of complements on them. Good job going out of your way to express your dislike of someone's personal preference as it speaks loudly to your character. Keep up the good work, doesn't bother me whatsoever. I hope your day gets better![]()
![]()
![]()
None of which changes the realities of what Metalcloak fenders don't actually do for anyone. Neither does your initial plea to ignore the haters do anything to change reality. And I enjoy how much how you aren't bothered.
View attachment 479882
None of which changes the realities of what Metalcloak fenders don't actually do for anyone. Neither does your initial plea to ignore the haters do anything to change reality. And I enjoy how much how you aren't bothered.
View attachment 479882
The amount of sass in this thread is higher than at my college’s girls locker room talk.
you playing on that women's volleyball team? that'd be the one I pick
Did you just assume my gender???
I go to school in Seattle, we only have the "all gender" ones these days. FYI, I avoid them at all costs.