Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Currie Antirock

I'm curious, can I run an AR on a low-lift TJ like mine, or even a stock TJ? Or are these specific to higher lifts?
I first installed mine with 2" lift. I had to cut the threaded rod to shorten the links.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I’ve been looking at these for years. I kinda know what they do, just don’t understand how.
All a sway bar does is connect the body to the axle. The body will want to stay parallel to the axle, minimizing body roll. When you have two sway bars, the body will stay centered between the opposing forces of the articulating axles. This creates stability and predictability that you do not completely get with one sway bar, and certainly not when fully disconnected. When set up well, the Jeep can almost have the feeling of floating over an obstacle.
ffffa27f7a691ab5da2fd2da29741e34.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
All a sway bar does is connect the body to the axle. The body will want to stay parallel to the axle, minimizing body roll. When you have two sway bars, the body will stay centered between the opposing forces of the articulating axles. This creates stability and predictability that you do not completely get with one sway bar, and certainly not when fully disconnected. When set up well, the Jeep can almost have the feeling of floating over an obstacle.
View attachment 33938

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Right, I get what it does, what I mean is as opposed to a standard sway bar.

Seems like the curry is so where between no sway bar and the stiff stock sway bar from the factory.

I’ve heard claims like “you don’t need to disconnect, and it works great on the road” but those seem like mutually exclusive options. Seems like it’s either great off-road and just ok on the asphalt or vice versa.

Guess I just need to see one in action. I’ve only seen a handful of guys running them
 
Just thread a nut onto the threads first then cut off the excess length equally on both sides of the rod. Just above horizontal, like 15 degrees if you want an angle to shoot for, works fine. Once you have made the cuts, removing the nut you installed first will clean up the threads so you can screw things back together again.

Since I don't recall the thread size on the rod, just take one of the rods with you to the hardware store and buy a nut or two to fit.
 
The front AR is softer than stock and stiffer than none (obviously :) ). And it is adjustable. Above where I said a sway bar ties the body to the axle? The factory bar does not allow for much movement, whereas the AR does allow for movent. It is a compromise. I believe the AR should be set to be as stiff as possible without limiting articulation. From there we can get into the discussion of useful articulation and what that is.

I have been daily driving mine for about 4 years. There is increased body roll, but it is very manageable and can be mitigated with stiffer shocks, if desired.

As far as no longer needing to disconnect...that is true. However, that is not the point. The benefits go way beyond that small convenience.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
The front AR is softer than stock and stiffer than none (obviously :) ). And it is adjustable. Above where I said a sway bar ties the body to the axle? The factory bar does not allow for much movement, whereas the AR does allow for movent. It is a compromise. I believe the AR should be set to be as stiff as possible without limiting articulation. From there we can get into the discussion of useful articulation and what that is.

I have been daily driving mine for about 4 years. There is increased body roll, but it is very manageable and can be mitigated with stiffer shocks, if desired.
Mine has been set on the loosest setting for 12-14 years on two different TJs. With good shocks, mine zips through curvy mountain roads and freeway on/offramps without an issue. I never have to mess with its setting and love it as is. I drive it like a Jeep, not like my BMW, and the loosest Antiswaybar setting is perfect for me. Even when towing my pop-up tent trailer. Again, all you need are good shocks... soft or mushy shocks will definitely allow an uncomfortable amount of body roll but good shocks don't.
 
Jerry, in your opinion, when is the purpose of the AR adjustments and how should they be utilized?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I first installed mine with 2" lift. I had to cut the threaded rod to shorten the links.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
So if you have 2" of lift and had to trim the links...is there more room to trim to fit a vehicle with no lift and everything still connect together the way it should?
 
So if you have 2" of lift and had to trim the links...is there more room to trim to fit a vehicle with no lift?
Yes. Plenty have ARs with no lift. I've seen some where the rod ends are nearly touching.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: CodaMan
I have an AR in the back of my LJ and a Swayloc in the front, I really enjoy the swayloc as it's the best of both worlds. I lock it up and it's stiffer than factory. I unlock it and it's a perfect match to my AR. I will never go back to only one sway bar again that's for sure. They provide so much smooth control that I have once had a spotter stop me for fear I'd roll. When u asked what he was talking about he said I had 1 wheel from each axle off the ground. I didn't even feel it getting that way. I've driven a front tire 3ft up a tree and again the jeep felt totally flat.

Best part is, I hit the fire road and flip the switch to lock up the front and drive it like an off road sports car.

Having driven jeeps with an AR on the front on road its a compromise but it's a hell of a lot better than driving with a disconnected front. Off road its no comparison as long as you still have a rear bar. That's one setup I won't ever do again, I started with the swayloc front and no rear at all. Due to an axle swap the stock rear didn't fit. The body of the jeep followed the front axle everywhere, made the jeep really unstable on large obstacles.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
I have an AR in the back of my LJ and a Swayloc in the front, I really enjoy the swayloc as it's the best of both worlds. I lock it up and it's stiffer than factory. I unlock it and it's a perfect match to my AR. I will never go back to only one sway bar again that's for sure. They provide so much smooth control that I have once had a spotter stop me for fear I'd roll. When u asked what he was talking about he said I had 1 wheel from each axle off the ground. I didn't even feel it getting that way. I've driven a front tire 3ft up a tree and again the jeep felt totally flat.

Best part is, I hit the fire road and flip the switch to lock up the front and drive it like an off road sports car.

Having driven jeeps with an AR on the front on road its a compromise but it's a hell of a lot better than driving with a disconnected front. Off road its no comparison as long as you still have a rear bar. That's one setup I won't ever do again, I started with the swayloc front and no rear at all. Due to an axle swap the stock rear didn't fit. The body of the jeep followed the front axle everywhere, made the jeep really unstable on large obstacles.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
Are you saying that the Swayloc front and AR rear is the best setup you’ve run? And that the AR front and Stock rear is a decent setup? Just trying to follow....I appreciate it
 
Most of us run a front AR and the rear factory. It's a good combo. The Swayloc is almost certainly better than the AR because of the dual rate, except for the cost.

I'd like to get a rear AR on mine, but it is low on the list. I'll be interested to see how well the factory rear will handle 12" of shock travel. It doesn't limit travel, but can it survive that much? We'll see...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Are you saying that the Swayloc front and AR rear is the best setup you’ve run? And that the AR front and Stock rear is a decent setup? Just trying to follow....I appreciate it
Bang on.
Most of us run a front AR and the rear factory. It's a good combo. The Swayloc is almost certainly better than the AR because of the dual rate, except for the cost.

I'd like to get a rear AR on mine, but it is low on the list. I'll be interested to see how well the factory rear will handle 12" of shock travel. It doesn't limit travel, but can it survive that much? We'll see...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I suspect it won't, I don't think the torsion will go across its entire length like an AR. Should be interesting to see though.

When I bought my swayloc it was about $200 more than the AR for the remote version and about on par for the manual version. Don't know if that's still the case but I'd look into it. Also other companies are now making dual rate bars like teraflex and I think jks. Worth investigating before dropping the coin. Particularly for a dd.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw
Most of us run a front AR and the rear factory. It's a good combo. The Swayloc is almost certainly better than the AR because of the dual rate, except for the cost.
I agree that the front AR and rear factory is a good combination.

But on the Swayloc, make sure people know there are two versions of it.... the cheaper Swayloc SR which only disconnects the antiswaybar completely which is not as good offroad as the standard Swayloc or the Antirock. That's just a fancy and more expensive disconnect with a stiffer torsion rate antirollbar for street use which to me is a debatable benefit.

I personally would not pay more for the more expensive Swayloc which has a lighter torsion rate in its offroad setting more like the Antirock, I'd go for the less costly Antirock which of course has a superb reputation among those who use it. The reason being, with me having run this combination for many years, is that with good shock absorbers the Antirock is fine as-is for both on and off-road. As I mentioned above, I have to drive through my local mountains all the time and with good shocks as I run, my TJ feels like it is "on rails" on those curvy road despite the fact my Antirock has been on its loosest setting for at least 12-14 years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KMG
True I forgot about the 3rd and cheapest version that is just an over priced disconnect. To each their own but I vastly prefer the swayloc to be in the stiff rate on road. I've tried it both ways and with bilstine 5120s all around I'm not happy with it in the corners. It really is almost sports car like with it in the high rate setting. I know lots of people run an AR in the front and are happy with it. For the extra couple hundred bucks I feel that having better than factory on road manners is well worth it.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
True I forgot about the 3rd and cheapest version that is just an over priced disconnect. To each their own but I vastly prefer the swayloc to be in the stiff rate on road. I've tried it both ways and with bilstine 5120s all around I'm not happy with it in the corners. It really is almost sports car like with it in the high rate setting. I know lots of people run an AR in the front and are happy with it. For the extra couple hundred bucks I feel that having better than factory on road manners is well worth it.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
That is assuming you prefer the factory on road manners. I have an AR set at the next to softest setting on the front and a stock bar on the rear. I prefer the on road manners the antirock provides because it corners the same with a little more nose dive in corners but you don't feel every bump being transferred from the axle moving. IMO ARs provide better on road manners, more flex while off road plus more convenient that discos.
 
That's true, if you prefer a soft front end then the AR is definitely the right answer. Personally I prefer to keep the front end stiff and hold tight on the corner. Then again I had to give up on owning fast cars (I kept getting tickets for some reason) so I like to pretend my jeep is one... Just on really really big tires. ;)


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CodaMan
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts