Question about upgrading the amp in my TJ Rubicon

Chris

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I am in the process of upgrading my sound system.

I went ahead and ordered this head unit:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZA1RGKSdRiG/p_113BT322U/Kenwood-KMM-BT322U.html

These speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB522/Polk-Audio-DB-522.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB462/Polk-Audio-DB-462.html

And this subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEZUC/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I want to replace the factory amp with something that will give me better sound output. However, I'm trying to figure this out since I'm not an audio expert.

Should I get a 5 channel amplifier and use it to power the 4 speakers, plus the subwoofer?

Or do I just let the head unit power the 4 speakers, and get a 1-channel amplifier to power the sub?

I'm just trying to figure out what is going to give me the best sound quality.
 
What ever amp you get it should have RCA inputs so the head unit can feed each channel with low power...less distortion. I am in same boat so looking to see all opinions of real world TJ application.
 
What ever amp you get it should have RCA inputs so the head unit can feed each channel with low power...less distortion. I am in same boat so looking to see all opinions of real world TJ application.

See, this is something I didn't know either.

The head unit has 22 watts RMS (50 watts peak), but the speakers are 40 watts RMS for the fronts and 100 watts RMS for the rears.

That seems to suggest the head unit isn't going to provide enough power. That makes me thing maybe I need a 5 channel amp so that I can run all 4 speakers and the sub through the amp.

But I have no idea what amp to buy, what's going to fit, and what's going to make for the most hassle free install. Oh, I also see some of these amps are $500 plus, which is a deal breaker.
 
My concern is the sub speaker you have on order...it is meant to use the factory dual voice coil amp. I read @RangerRick write up and the reason he used a 4 channel amp to power that sub is he used 2 of the channels to power each voice coil. I really think a powered 8" sub is the best route, some will even fit in the console with some work. I powered a different cheaper sub speaker with the factory amp and really don't like it.
 
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My concern is the sub speaker you have on order...it is meant to use the factory dual voice coil amp. I read @RangerRick write up and the reason he used a 4 channel amp to power that sub is he used 2 of the channels to power each voice coil. I really think a powered 8" sub is the best route, some will even fit in the console with some work. I powered a different cheaper sub speaker with the factory amp and really don't like it.

I thought he got rid of the factory dual voice coil amp in favor of that Kicker? Or maybe I'm just not understanding it well enough. Putting together a car audio system is a pain in the butt unless you really know audio well.

I thought that subwoofer I ordered would work with a 5 channel amp like this at 4 ohms, since each coil is 2 ohms (so 4 ohms total):
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC2510/Clarion-XC2510.html
 
the kicker is the sub, it uses dual voice coils like the oem, the amp he used is 4 channel but he is only using 2 channels to power that sub, not using the other 2.
 
the kicker is the sub, it uses dual voice coils like the oem, the amp he used is 4 channel but he is only using 2 channels to power that sub, not using the other 2.

Ahhh, so I might actually need a sub that doesn't use dual voice coils, huh?

Funny thing is, Kicker doesn't seem to make any shallow depth single voice coil subs that will work in place of the factory sub.
 
Ahhh, so I might actually need a sub that doesn't use dual voice coils, huh?

Funny thing is, Kicker doesn't seem to make any shallow depth single voice coil subs that will work in place of the factory sub.
No dual voice coil subs are not very common...I really think I am going to use a powered sub like the hs8 not sure yet how much I want to dump into a system on a soft top, half door TJ
 
No dual voice coil subs are not very common...I really think I am going to use a powered sub like the hs8 not sure yet how much I want to dump into a system on a soft top, half door TJ

Interesting, because every single one of the Kicker shallow depth subwoofers are dual voice coil, which makes it kind of difficult.

I'm trying to get good sound without having to drop the kind of money that one would spend on some sort of professional competition style setup. I jus figure if I'm already replacing the speakers, head unit, and sub, why not add an amp?
 
No dual voice coil subs are not very common...I really think I am going to use a powered sub like the hs8 not sure yet how much I want to dump into a system on a soft top, half door TJ

Wait... an HS8 studio monitor? In a car?
 
I like the separate gain and crossover feature.
$400 on sale for $290
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CXA6005/Kicker-43CXA600-5.html?cc=07
Are you using that sub speaker in a factory center console? I need a replacement sub speaker.
g206CXA6005-o_right.webp
 
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Ahhh, so I might actually need a sub that doesn't use dual voice coils, huh?

Funny thing is, Kicker doesn't seem to make any shallow depth single voice coil subs that will work in place of the factory sub.

You can use the subwoofer you bought on 1ohm if you wire it in parallel, or 4ohm if you wire it in a series.Think about how you setup a esc for dual lipos, parallel and series.

To run 4ohm in series with a aftermarket amp your just running a jumper wire between the leftover voice coil terminals, + to -.Heres a diagram out of a kicker manual showing a series connection on speaker terminals.

20180309_005951.webp
 
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You can use the subwoofer you bought on 1ohm if you wire it in parallel, or 4ohm if you wire it in a series.Think about how you setup a esc for dual lipos, parallel and series.

To run 4ohm in series with a aftermarket amp your just running a jumper wire between the leftover voice coil terminals, + to -.Heres a diagram out of a kicker manual showing a series connection on speaker terminals.

I get it. And yes, this makes sense from my RC car hobby, so I get what you're saying!
 
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I get it. And yes, this makes sense from my RC car hobby, so I get what you're saying!

Awesome, I just wanted to make sure you didn't start second guessing, you were on the right path to begin with.Id wait to buy the amp until after you'e tested the speakers, you might only need 1 channel for the new sub.Youll only need a 5 channel amp if the head unit struggles and enters thermal protection.
 
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How does that work in comparison to a regular sub? Where would you put it?
Very simple. Run power from battery to powered sub. Signal from head unit to powered sub through RCA’s. Ground from powered sub to vehicle chassis.

I put mine on the underside of the rear seat. Out of sight, out of mind. Doesn’t take up any useable space in my TJ, which space is very important. Sound is awesome.
BA5E6BB1-6896-4FC2-AE4A-00F4C4C746DF.webp

A little closer to get an idea how I mounted it. Used a piece ov 3/4” ply. I can give more details if interested
5D30E689-9333-4F59-953A-CAA763868EA5.webp
 
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I get it. And yes, this makes sense from my RC car hobby, so I get what you're saying!

More food for thought:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-K6KjqgcQqIP/learn/wiring-subwoofers-ohms.html

Dual Voice Coils give you even more wiring options
Subwoofer manufacturers make subs with dual voice coils (DVC) to take advantage of this difference in wiring schemes, so the user has more freedom of system design. A DVC 4-ohm sub can be wired into a system as a 2-ohm or as an 8-ohm load. A DVC 2-ohm sub can have a total impedance of 1 ohm or 4 ohms.
 
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