Rubicon Locker: Fact or Myth

I’m thinking about it, just not sure I want another few switches in the Jeep.

Since you will be bypassing the safety systems, be aware of how easily they might be accidentally turned on by you or others.
Here's mine.

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I assume when this is done the dash lights become inoperative?

Depends on how you modify it.
My switches bypass the factory ones, but still send the appropriate signal to the cluster.
Dash lights work as intended.
You can put the switches anywhere you want.
 
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@AndyG now this I like.

That is pretty sexy-

.... reinforcing what he says, in the the new Ford F250 s they moved the locker switch to the left of the steering wheel- away from passengers.

I may be repeating myself but lockers are a hard-core performance mod and they were never really sold to the public front and rear in large numbers until the Rubicon- Jeep knew people would be getting them that had no idea of the mechanical nuances so they made the system force the driver to slow down to engage.

But 4 low on a Rubicon is so slow that you can only use that to crawl as designed- lockers are effective in other situations.

The message that does not need to get lost is that people do not need to engage the lockers as they are experiencing wheel spin. Let the vehicle come to a stop or at least make sure they are both moving equally.
 
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Thank you for the idea. I was wondering if there would be a way to place them in the center console area. I assume when this is done the dash lights become inoperative?

I did the Ken White version and the dash lights have perfect function- I still can’t get over the simplicity- All you’re doing is hijacking the front locker wire and the rear locker wire and then the other side of the switches share the black ground- I’m not criticizing jeep - It would be probably hard to find a good used Rubicon if they had not put some governance on the locker system but when you see how simple you can make it work it makes you realize how complicated the factory did things.

I’m chomping at the bit to do it to my other Rubi.
 
I did the Ken white version and the dash lights have perfect function- I still can’t get over the simplicity- All you’re doing is hijacking the front locker wire and the rear locker wire and then the other side of the switches share the black ground- I’m not criticizing jeep - It would be probably hard to find a good used Rubicon if they had not put some governance on the locker system but when you see how simple you can make it work it makes you realize how complicated the factory did things.

So the lights still work with this method as intended. That’s good.

It obviously bypasses the transfer case position safety, but are the other safeties bypassed (<10 mph to engage and >45 mph disengagement)?
 
I did the Ken White version and the dash lights have perfect function- I still can’t get over the simplicity- All you’re doing is hijacking the front locker wire and the rear locker wire and then the other side of the switches share the black ground- I’m not criticizing jeep - It would be probably hard to find a good used Rubicon if they had not put some governance on the locker system but when you see how simple you can make it work it makes you realize how complicated the factory did things.

I’m chomping at the bit to do it to my other Rubi.

Thank you, I’ll look up Ken’s method. For some reason I like the idea of the lights being on.
 
I did the Ken White version and the dash lights have perfect function- I still can’t get over the simplicity- All you’re doing is hijacking the front locker wire and the rear locker wire and then the other side of the switches share the black ground- I’m not criticizing jeep - It would be probably hard to find a good used Rubicon if they had not put some governance on the locker system but when you see how simple you can make it work it makes you realize how complicated the factory did things.

I’m chomping at the bit to do it to my other Rubi.

so let me ask ya Andy, we talked about this some the other night. in my case with only having the 1 switch in my panel, I could remove the factory switch and put 1 in it's place and add another 1 beside it with no issues. planning on doing it to mine soon. my brothers switch panel is filled with the rear window defrost and wiper switch, so we're studying where to put them on his.
 
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So the lights still work with this method as intended. That’s good.

It obviously bypasses the transfer case position safety, but are the other safeties bypassed (<10 mph to engage and >45 mph disengagement)?

Correct- here is what happens -

You are straight wiring the pumps, pure and simple-

When you hit the rear, the original axle locker switch lights up- That is simply because you’re on his circuit- And his circuit is the only one of the two lockers that illuminate the switch-

At the same time the dash light will come on and it will flash until the locker engages

Disengagement works the same way at the dash- You’re not really changing the mechanics of the lockers or the pumps you’re just changing how the power gets delivered-

If you turn on only the front locker you’re not going to see the switch light up- But who cares all that matters is what you see at the dash-

You can engage in 2WD , 4 wheel drive , front or rear - anytime except thursdays at 3:30. That’s Jerrys time slot.
 
Correct- here is what happens -

You are straight wiring the pumps, pure and simple-

When you hit the rear, the original axle locker switch lights up- That is simply because you’re on his circuit- And his circuit is the only one of the two lockers that illuminate the switch-

At the same time the dash light will come on and it will flash until the locker engages

Disengagement works the same way at the dash- You’re not really changing the mechanics of the lockers or the pumps you’re just changing how the power gets delivered-

If you turn on only the front locker you’re not going to see the switch light up- But who cares all that matters is what you see at the dash-

You can engage in 2WD , 4 wheel drive , front or rear - anytime except thursdays at 3:30. That’s Jerrys time slot.

So to disengage just turn off the appropriate new switch or use the original switch?
 
So to disengage just turn off the appropriate new switch or use the original switch?

the way I'm understanding it you wont need or use the orig. switch at all. so I plan on removing it and putting the rear locker switch in it's place and add the front locker switch beside it. the new switch is like a light switch in your house up it's on down it's off !
 
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So to disengage just turn off the appropriate new switch or use the original switch?

You have to kill the lockers with the new switches if you turn them on with them because they dominate the factory switch if they are on-

But that’s really no more work than it ever has been

The selectability is what it’s all about.
 
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.... reinforcing what he says, in the the new Ford F250 s they moved the locker switch to the left of the steering wheel- away from passengers.

None of my Ford trucks have had the locker switches to the left of the steering wheel. It’s still on the right side on the 2024’s.