Advice on TJ Purchase

[ToddSig]

Hello, I have a 2023 Jeep Gladiator Mojave, stock, and since having it, and looking at Jeep forums and groups I have been looking for a TJ as a project. I am in Northern Virginia and found a 2000 automatic TJ close by with 76,000 miles. Seems to be in pretty good condition, Carfax reports no known damage, and the milage looks correct. Most that I see are over 125,000 miles. There are a few small body areas of light rust, but nothing major. There is one spot of major concern, drivers side rear frame with rust and loss. My question is, are the replacment frame sleeves a suffieicnt and worthy fix/repair, or is it a hard pass. I like the low milage. The rest of the frame seems solid, but I need to further inspect.

It has Falken Wildpeak 33" 305/16 with a slight lift, and possibly spacers. I need to check further on the add ons, but my main concern right now before purchase is the frame.

Thanks for any adive on my potential purchase.

Image of the damage and the TJ

 

[N757KF]

Hard pass

 

[ChasUGC]

Yeah, the rust on that one is really bad. It's not the fault of the Jeep really, I believe it's just the area and the effect of those areas on vehicles. Areas with a lot of snow and salt roads, or high salt humidity. Most of the vehicles that I saw on roads in Hawaii were highly rusted out. I live in California, near the ocean, but mine doesn't have any rust. People in this forum really won't try to pamper your vision of that sort of rust damage. Tearing apart a frame to fix something that is likely to get just as bad again in other spots, isn't worth the aggravation. No easy way, it's a hard pass.

 

[Camdenst]

I would be less concerned with milage.... there are many here who would say 120k is just breaking her in haha. I scored a Texas jeep and just paid to have it shipped.

 

[Danarch]

Based on the one picture I’d run away. Not sure what the rest of the frame looks like.

 

[AndyG]

If you can afford to purchase a TJ with rust and the repairs to fix it you can afford to get one that has no rust.

I have had six of them they all needed a lot of little things and I would hate to deal with rust, in addition to everything else.

I’m not trying to shame anybody I’m just saying that there are still a lot of good ones available with just a little bit of looking- You don’t have to go the hard road.

 

[tr21triton]

RUN FOREST RUN !!!!!! FASTER !!!! After finding out he's from D.C. I take this statement back !

 

[Rickyd]

To a lesser degree I'd also be concerned about it having an early 0331 head that could be cracked.and the possible bearing damage. If this jeep is a great deal and the op knows he'll be using it in salt then go ahead and patch it til its a parts rig

 

[ToddSig]

Thanks everone for the replys and comments, greatly apprecaited. Consensus is to pass on this one. I want a project, but not with a lot of frame work or potentail frame work. I will keep looking.

@Camdenst thanks for the comment on the low milage being of a lesser concern.

@AndyG , great comment and makes a lot of sense "If you get afford to purchase a TJ with rust and the repairs to fix it you can afford to get one that has no rust."

Thanks again.

​

 

[trojandawg]

Sounds like you’ve decided already, but I would pass also.

What are you looking to spend? I have one for sale…rust free Georgia Jeep.

 

[TokenJo]

I would steer clear, chances are the internals of the frame are bad As well. If you dont mind, how much are they asking for it?

 

[ToddSig]

Sounds like you’ve decided already, but I would pass also.

What are you looking to spend? I have one for sale…rust free Georgia Jeep.

In the $8k-$10K range

 

[ToddSig]

I would steer clear, chances are the internals of the frame are bad As well. If you dont mind, how much are they asking for it?

Thanks, $8k

 

[trojandawg]

In the $8k-$10K range

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2127559484255506/?mibextid=6ojiHh

 

[zachpeakee]

There are a few small body areas of light rust, but nothing major. There is one spot of major concern, drivers side rear frame with rust and loss.

That photo alone is every bit of what I would call "major".

Frame rust is almost always a no-go, no matter the mileage.
Once the frame is gone, Control Arm mounts are usually quick to follow, and so on.
Odometer reading would become the least of your concern.
To the extent of that photo, I wouldn't even waste my time to see if the rest was good.

Although that one spot is the only "major" rust damage that you can see, the rest is surely soon to follow, as rust doesn't just say "whoah lets not mess it up too bad"
At which point you'll spend your whole project chasing your ass around your elbow, fighting rust.

I'd be more tempted to buy a clean frame TJ, that needs a new engine or transmission.
Both of which are significantly easier to do than chasing rust with frame-work.

Also, just a tip for buying a TJ.
Ignore the "upgrades" and focus your attention more on the Factory options.

Since you're not in a rush, you want to find one with the Dana 44 rear axle, and the 4.0 engine.
That's going to be the Hot-Ticket TJ's, unless you prefer to go with a Rubicon which has the Dana 44 Front & Rear + Lockers.

I'd skim over the 2.5L engines, and the Dana 35 Rear Axles, unless you find one in just absolute mint condition.
(4.0L w/ Dana 44 is significantly more desirable in many ways)

That's not to say the 2.5L is "bad", just not as good as the 4.0.
And the Dana 35 rear axle is generally regarded as just being a shit-gamble.
Some people beat them for years, some blow them in parking lots.

 

[ToddSig]

Thanks @zachpeakee good advice. As a novice, how would I determine or tell the difference between the Dana 44 from the Dana 30? And thanks for the advice on ignoring the upgrades. A lot to consider. I am only considering the 4.0L enghine.

I am in the DC Metro area, so finding a truly rust free TJ might be difficult. What about frames with minor rusting, surface only rust etc. No frame holes or cracks where the rust has eaten through, but suface rust on the flats.

 

[Rickyd]

Thanks @zachpeakee good advice. As a novice, how would I determine or tell the difference between the Dana 44 from the Dana 30? And thanks for the advice on ignoring the upgrades. A lot to consider. I am only considering the 4.0L enghine.

I am in the DC Metro area, so finding a truly rust free TJ might be difficult. What about frames with minor rusting, surface only rust etc. No frame holes or cracks where the rust has eaten through, but suface rust on the flats.

He meant Dana 35 rear axle,not Dana 30 as the tj never came with one. If you don't go over a 31" tire i wouldn't worry about the weaker Dana 35 being an issue.

As far as the frame you can use a cheap bore scope to look inside the frame.

 

[tr21triton]

RUN FOREST RUN !!!!!! FASTER !!!!

I mean to buy it before it's gone ! Being your in D.C. it's a steal at $8k ! most people in D.C. would screw you out of atleast $20k for that jewel...

 

[zachpeakee]

He meant Dana 35 rear axle,not Dana 30 as the tj never came with one.

Good catch! I was late to something while typing that. Edited my post.

As a novice, how would I determine or tell the difference between the Dana 44 from the Dana 30?

I meant to say the Dana 35 axle.
TJ's came with Dana 35 OR Dana 44 Rear Axles. With the 44 being significantly stronger, less-problematic.
Edited the post to clear it up.

As far as telling them apart, it's simple!
The 35 kind of looks like an egg. Almost a perfect oval cover.
The 44 looks like a lop-sided octagon.

I just threw this image together in Photoshop, and will probably do a write-up tomorrow on the differences.
Easy to use diagram for the TJ's.

 

[Irun]

This area can be tricky to find a rust free TJ, but they do exist. The key to success is knowing what to look for, patience, and being ready to buy immediately.