Are you blowing a bunch of smoke? That's a lot of oil to burn.
Id double check for leaks once your rested. That's a hell of a long drive.
Id double check for leaks once your rested. That's a hell of a long drive.
4-cylinder cross country crawler build
- Thread starter The4bangertj
- Start date
Ya mostly pops or puffs of smoke every once in a while is what my parents following behind me said. Said any down shift pops would always have a little smoke and less frequent when accelerating. From parking it last night to this morning there isn’t a drop of oil on the ground and my valve tick sounds like a valve rattle now.
Found a dude in Long Island ny that has a 97 2.5l with an auto and ac (won’t be taking the auto) but just the motor has 160k and has new accessories on it like manifold water pump etc that was done 3k miles ago, all for 400 bucks. Ran great before he pulled it out to do an Ls swap. Planning on going down Thursday to pick it up then I’ll just need to find a hoist to swap them. This is the best option I can find besides waiting to save up for a titan rebuilt motor.
WOW great price.
See if you can rent the engine hoist unless you're wanting to buy one. If you are get the 2 ton version from Harbor Freight. The 1.5 ton version has a shorter reach and won't reach on our Jeeps.
I’d prefer to rent. Good to know on the size bc I would have got the 1 ton lol. Are their any stores that rent a hoist like how advance and auto zone that rent tools?
I'd check your local rental stores, I don't think any of the parts stores rent them.
When I was a teenager I worked at a rental store and we had a nice 2 ton unit that we rented.
Well yesterday I took a drive from New Hampshire to Connecticut for an engine hoist and stand (engine hoist is actually the smaller one even though he listed as the bigger one) then Long Island for the motor. Left at 7am and got back home at 9:30pm. Then today got the engine on the hoist and out of the truck and backed the jeep in the garage and started taking stuff off. Sadly the header is also cracked on the new motor so I’ll need a new one of those but for the most part it looks great. Little rusty and dirty but so is my old one.
The only real concern I have is centering the clutch since I don’t have a tool and would rather not buy a whole new clutch since I did a new one when I put in the new to me transmission. Edit: found the little plastic ones they put with the kits on Amazon so that’s easy.
Second concern is having the small hoist not be long enough and force me to remove the tcase and trans then sit the engine in the motor mounts first then mate the trans to it later.
The only real concern I have is centering the clutch since I don’t have a tool and would rather not buy a whole new clutch since I did a new one when I put in the new to me transmission. Edit: found the little plastic ones they put with the kits on Amazon so that’s easy.
Second concern is having the small hoist not be long enough and force me to remove the tcase and trans then sit the engine in the motor mounts first then mate the trans to it later.
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What happens is that the hydraulic cylinder will hit the crossmember/bumper but depending on what type of engine sling you're using you can push the engine back into position.
As you start to pull the engine double & triple check that you've got everything disconnected. I always seem to miss one wire or ground strap it seems.
As you start to pull the engine double & triple check that you've got everything disconnected. I always seem to miss one wire or ground strap it seems.
Well currently the way I held the motor up was with ratchet straps so well see how far I can get it out on that or if I have to buy a balancer, I’ll find out either way. Ya I’m taking it super slow so checking the new to me motor for all the connections on it as well to double check I’m not missing anything.
Motor is out but took a lot more work. Had to remove the skid and tcase and have the trans sit on jack stands so I could get it unsplined easier then also had to take the grill and bumper off to get the motor out too. Also removed the motor mounts so I can just swing it back off the trans.
Spilled some fluids from dipping the trans too far back and now the Jack spilled some oil which seems to have had a rubber plug that I hit off as the Jack was touching my bumper.
Need to put the new exhaust manifold on the new engine and swap the clutch and fly wheel over. Then hopefully have the new motor on the motor mounts in the next 2 days before I leave for the beach. Am also going to pull a piston of the old motor as a trophy.
Spilled some fluids from dipping the trans too far back and now the Jack spilled some oil which seems to have had a rubber plug that I hit off as the Jack was touching my bumper.
Need to put the new exhaust manifold on the new engine and swap the clutch and fly wheel over. Then hopefully have the new motor on the motor mounts in the next 2 days before I leave for the beach. Am also going to pull a piston of the old motor as a trophy.
New motor is in. Busted a brake line since the Intake hit it so I’ll need to figure that out but man that sucked.
Abs valve has the same fitting.many jeep and chryslers could donate one
After a long time away from the Jeep working on other family cars and a beach vacation I have returned and continued on my journey.
The brake line that I did break was a repair job from the previous owner thus the confusion on why my line had some adapter while I couldn’t find that information anywhere. I got a whole kit from ss lines that replaced the broken line perfectly from the portioning valve to the rear axle as well as all other hard lines from the portioning valve ( front drive and passenger as well as the 2 from master to portioning valve. So not only were all the lines not oem, they were hand bend and the line to the rear axle was patched. So now all new lines are plumed properly and actually bent in the right spots. Kinda glad I busted the line so I could do this.
That was most of the day pulling and making sure I did the lines properly but then I also mounted the transmission back on the motor. (Had to remove the trans and case so I could get the motor on the mounts easier than trying to get it on the trans and mounts.) those 2 things were what I was the most stressed about coming back to the jeep after that break but it went very smooth.
The brake line that I did break was a repair job from the previous owner thus the confusion on why my line had some adapter while I couldn’t find that information anywhere. I got a whole kit from ss lines that replaced the broken line perfectly from the portioning valve to the rear axle as well as all other hard lines from the portioning valve ( front drive and passenger as well as the 2 from master to portioning valve. So not only were all the lines not oem, they were hand bend and the line to the rear axle was patched. So now all new lines are plumed properly and actually bent in the right spots. Kinda glad I busted the line so I could do this.
That was most of the day pulling and making sure I did the lines properly but then I also mounted the transmission back on the motor. (Had to remove the trans and case so I could get the motor on the mounts easier than trying to get it on the trans and mounts.) those 2 things were what I was the most stressed about coming back to the jeep after that break but it went very smooth.
Had more time away from the Jeep but came back to it today and finished it all up. So many little things but did oil, motor mounts, intake, radiator, coolant, bleed brakes, pumped tires back up to 25psi (dropped them to 3psi to get the jeep lower for the little hoist), and had to take my exhaust off and swap my old mid pipe back on bc the one with his motor was messed with and I didn’t see that.
Before I left I did everything else like the tcase,shafts, skid, all belt drive stuff and the belt, starter, grill, bumper, and anything else I’m forgetting. Just so many little things which wasn’t bad since I’ve replaced everything I’ve touched atleast once before so I knew how it all went together. Just a lot of systems to keep track of.
Jeep cranked right over and sounds great. Throttle is a little sticky so ima try cleaning it out but very surprised on how everything has worked out. No codes thrown and all gauges were showing everything perfectly.
Before I left I did everything else like the tcase,shafts, skid, all belt drive stuff and the belt, starter, grill, bumper, and anything else I’m forgetting. Just so many little things which wasn’t bad since I’ve replaced everything I’ve touched atleast once before so I knew how it all went together. Just a lot of systems to keep track of.
Jeep cranked right over and sounds great. Throttle is a little sticky so ima try cleaning it out but very surprised on how everything has worked out. No codes thrown and all gauges were showing everything perfectly.
Congratulations on getting it all done, I know how good of a feeling it is. Now it's time to go enjoy the Jeep some.
Since the motor has been up I’ve gone back to my soft top and half doors. Finally in a place I can store my hard top so it’s possible and man that drop in weight and the open feeling makes me remember why I love the soft top experience.
The weight drop also makes me tempted to remove my spare tire off the back since it’s now not going to be driving across the country any time soon and not wheeling as frequently. I know many people won’t wheel without one but for an on road joy ride vehicle with the occasional offroad trip now I’m really tempted to loose the weight and just keep a plug and valve kit in the jeep since even from all my trips driving across the country and wheeling I have not once used my spare. I just worry I say, then I’ll split the sidewall on a normal drive. If I did drop the spare I would also plan on fluxes matching rear bumper and non run the hitch version if I didn’t have the spare. Then again I’m also super worried about running super short springs because I’d be so light.
The weight drop also makes me tempted to remove my spare tire off the back since it’s now not going to be driving across the country any time soon and not wheeling as frequently. I know many people won’t wheel without one but for an on road joy ride vehicle with the occasional offroad trip now I’m really tempted to loose the weight and just keep a plug and valve kit in the jeep since even from all my trips driving across the country and wheeling I have not once used my spare. I just worry I say, then I’ll split the sidewall on a normal drive. If I did drop the spare I would also plan on fluxes matching rear bumper and non run the hitch version if I didn’t have the spare. Then again I’m also super worried about running super short springs because I’d be so light.
Pulled apart my old motor to find the skirt of the piston was cracked. The moment I touched it the skirt fell off completely. Not sure how but I’m just glad it made it across the country. Over the past summer I did swap in a cheaper intake filter with no pre filter bag. Not sure if that could have sucked up some water and caused it but in fear I ponied up the money and re bought the Thor filter with the pre filter bag that I had on before and had no issues with.
With also moving back east I have annual inspection and emissions. One of the biggest things I’ve had issues with is my exhaust. With the new motor I put on a brand new, not cracked header. That was one thing solved but the rest of the exhaust was a shit show to put it simply. Every joint leaked and would move cause more or less drone in the cab. The tailpipe was ripped off wheeing so I welded on an axle dump (which won’t pass inspection even if the system didn’t leak). Plus the muffler was smashed in.
Because of the tummy tuck my exhaust has also not fit like oem as the muffler would hit the tub where the back seat passenger side foot well it. This made a noise and was so close it would heat up the tub so much on long drive like the cross country one I took, it would melt the carpet above it.
So rather than just getting a bolt on kit and having to mess with it not fitting with the tuck I just took it to a local exhaust shop that had the best rating around.
Got a full stainless set up from the manifold to the back of the tub. Magnaflow ss cat and magnaflow 409ss as I wanted a bit of noise but nothing that would be be obnoxious and make people think I’m a ricer. Fits like a glove and has no movement and is far away from hitting anything like the Oem set up did.
Overall I’m super happy to have a jeep that doesn’t sound like a tractor and fits perfectly to the tuck. The only thing I worry about is that tail pipe being so far out. I will see how far back I can trim it while still being legal even if I need a tip that is angled down some without actually hanging down.
Because of the tummy tuck my exhaust has also not fit like oem as the muffler would hit the tub where the back seat passenger side foot well it. This made a noise and was so close it would heat up the tub so much on long drive like the cross country one I took, it would melt the carpet above it.
So rather than just getting a bolt on kit and having to mess with it not fitting with the tuck I just took it to a local exhaust shop that had the best rating around.
Got a full stainless set up from the manifold to the back of the tub. Magnaflow ss cat and magnaflow 409ss as I wanted a bit of noise but nothing that would be be obnoxious and make people think I’m a ricer. Fits like a glove and has no movement and is far away from hitting anything like the Oem set up did.
Overall I’m super happy to have a jeep that doesn’t sound like a tractor and fits perfectly to the tuck. The only thing I worry about is that tail pipe being so far out. I will see how far back I can trim it while still being legal even if I need a tip that is angled down some without actually hanging down.
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