Throwout bearing install dilemma

Ok, so in a post on another forum, someone described a similar deal as I. They instructed him to pull the rear driveshaft. I pulled mine and drove with just the front shaft in and the sound disappeared. I'm thinking that it's either this cheap, unknown last u-joint that i have not replaced or it's my transfer case.

The ujoint is very strange, it is shaped pretty tall on one side and the cross is very short. I'm going to take it to the auto parts store to see if I can match it up with another one.
 
I'll mention that the ujoint in question was binding a bit in the propeller shaft. I truly hope that the ujoint is the problem, this Jeep has bankrupted me and I'm out of work right now.
 
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I'll mention that the ujoint in question was binding a bit in the propeller shaft. I truly hope that the ujoint is the problem, this Jeep has bankrupted me and I'm out of work right now.
I just want to clarify that I didn't "Like" the out of work (although a little of me is slightly jealous), but the "Like" is for progress.

I have my fingers crossed for you and your U-joint!
 
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I just want to clarify that I didn't "Like" the out of work (although a little of me is slightly jealous), but the "Like" is for progress.

I have my fingers crossed for you and your U-joint!
Have any of you seen an asymmetrical ujoint like this before? The shoulders on the left-right of the trunion are longer than the cross trunions...

23540ACA-0E48-4DE1-99E7-6F1451B4A5C3.webp
 
Yes, I've seen them before. Back in my counterman days, they made cross joints like that when you were trying to fit a driveshaft from a different application than what belonged in it. Precision had a fancy little measuring tool that you would use to measure the cross and cap size to match up weird combinations.
 
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Yes, I've seen them before. Back in my counterman days, they made cross joints like that when you were trying to fit a driveshaft from a different application than what belonged in it. Precision had a fancy little measuring tool that you would use to measure the cross and cap size to match up weird combinations.
Oreilly had a Precision 353 that appears to be identical. I'll press it in and test everything momentarily..
 
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Oreilly had a Precision 353 that appears to be identical. I'll press it in and test everything momentarily..
The new ujoint didn't fix the issue. I do not get vibrations at higher speeds, I don't think my pinion angle has to be adjusted. This sucks beyond all the previous suckage.
 
I'm giving in and adjusting my UCAs. The vibration is pretty noticable between 15-40mph during accel and decel. The worst that I can do is fail again I guess.
 
Raised my pinion angle one full rotation of my UCAs. It may have reduced a little bit of the lower speed vibrations, but I'm still -1.5-2 degrees.

I had my wife ride along with me this evening again, she didn't think the vibration issue improved, but she and I both concur that there is an exhaust leak. She seems to think the noise that is being produced is purely exhaust, and not from the bellhousing.

That said, three of the top bolts on my headers were slightly loose, as were some bolts on my precats. I guess tomorrow, I will have to check the entire cat forward for leaks.
 
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Raised my pinion angle one full rotation of my UCAs. It may have reduced a little bit of the lower speed vibrations, but I'm still -1.5-2 degrees.

I had my wife ride along with me this evening again, she didn't think the vibration issue improved, but she and I both concur that there is an exhaust leak. She seems to think the noise that is being produced is purely exhaust, and not from the bellhousing.

That said, three of the top bolts on my headers were slightly loose, as were some bolts on my precats. I guess tomorrow, I will have to check the entire cat forward for leaks.

Sorry if you feel I haven't kept up, but the vibration your are chasing is this new from the clutch or has been there before the clutch. I am not sure why you changed your CA's, also I think 1.5 - 2 degrees doesn't sound right. Also when you changed the CA's you do mess with the alignment so make sure you check that again.

lastly if the vibration was from when you changed the clutch I would start with things you touched first. Drivelines, tires, trans mount, engine mounts etc?

Is the whole jeep vibrating or do you feel it more in your stick and pedals?

Also hopefully this makes you feel better a little, but we have all gone through this. I mean all of us that are good at working on our own stuff. This is called learning. It is frustrating and you seem to be learning a lot, but once you get this tackled, you will be happy. Or if you want to avoid the frustration you can pay to have it done.

You are working hard but it does get easier, and pretty soon everything will be working top notch again and you will know when anything is out of sorts and you will be able to figure it out quicker next time. Hang in there, I know it is tough but you are learning a lot and saving a lot of money.

Also don't think if you took it to a shop it would be less frustrating. What would it be like if you took it to a shop and they gave it back to you with vibrations. Chances are they would make you prove the vibrations weren't there first and be charging you labor to try and figure it out. Believe me that is more frustrating than this.

Hang in there you got this!
 
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Sorry if you feel I haven't kept up, but the vibration your are chasing is this new from the clutch or has been there before the clutch. I am not sure why you changed your CA's, also I think 1.5 - 2 degrees doesn't sound right. Also when you changed the CA's you do mess with the alignment so make sure you check that again.

lastly if the vibration was from when you changed the clutch I would start with things you touched first. Drivelines, tires, trans mount, engine mounts etc?

Is the whole jeep vibrating or do you feel it more in your stick and pedals?

Also hopefully this makes you feel better a little, but we have all gone through this. I mean all of us that are good at working on our own stuff. This is called learning. It is frustrating and you seem to be learning a lot, but once you get this tackled, you will be happy. Or if you want to avoid the frustration you can pay to have it done.

You are working hard but it does get easier, and pretty soon everything will be working top notch again and you will know when anything is out of sorts and you will be able to figure it out quicker next time. Hang in there, I know it is tough but you are learning a lot and saving a lot of money.

Also don't think if you took it to a shop it would be less frustrating. What would it be like if you took it to a shop and they gave it back to you with vibrations. Chances are they would make you prove the vibrations weren't there first and be charging you labor to try and figure it out. Believe me that is more frustrating than this.

Hang in there you got this!
Vibration - I had recently changed the centerball yoke and pressed out the rear axle pinion u-joint, thinking I knew the rear most ujoint size in the rear DS. Well it turned out that I did not actually know what size it was - hence the scramble for the Precision 353 yesterday (similar to a Spicer 5-134X). The rear ujoint was binding a little, it felt ok when I pressed the old one back in, but the bottom line is there are no vibes with the rear DS removed now.

UCA adjustments - I had tweaked and tuned my rear DS vibrations several months back after swapping in a Daystar from the broken stock mount. I had everything dialed, once I had adjusted the UCAs to compensate for the difference in height. My driveline was perfectly smooth before - now it vibrates a little in 2nd - 4th gear with the rear shaft attached.

Exhaust - I am going to disconnect my pre cats today or whenever it stops raining. It was HARD to reconnect the exhaust hanger to the main cat area from the trans bracket hanger. I cant help but feel as if there is:

(1) significant tension being applied to the transmission and tcase assembly from my hanger. The assembly also looks to have moved ever so slightly from their position on my Rubicon Express skid plate (the studs going through the skid plate seem pushed back slightly).
(2) Misalignment with my pre cats to the headers. I should have unbloted them in retrospect, I did not and it caused an exhaust leak.
(3) Three of the four top side header bolts were loose. The headers and header bolts are new, I replaced it two months ago. I am pretty sure they were all tight prior to this clutch job.

Bottom line:

- I have an exhaust leak, my Jeep sounds like absolute shit.
- The clutch seems a little noisey too
- There is a driveline vibration as I have described
- My pinion angle was (MINUS) -3 to -3.5 degrees, after last night's UCA adjustment, it is now -1.5 to -2 degrees. I have a double cardan CV driveshaft
- I also re-greased my rear DS slip yoke, but it seemed stiffer than usual - pretty hard to stretch when I reconnect to rear DS to the tcase and rear axle pinion (I don't know if thisbis an issue or not?)

Thanks again
 
Sorry if you feel I haven't kept up, but the vibration your are chasing is this new from the clutch or has been there before the clutch. I am not sure why you changed your CA's, also I think 1.5 - 2 degrees doesn't sound right. Also when you changed the CA's you do mess with the alignment so make sure you check that again.

lastly if the vibration was from when you changed the clutch I would start with things you touched first. Drivelines, tires, trans mount, engine mounts etc?

Is the whole jeep vibrating or do you feel it more in your stick and pedals?

Also hopefully this makes you feel better a little, but we have all gone through this. I mean all of us that are good at working on our own stuff. This is called learning. It is frustrating and you seem to be learning a lot, but once you get this tackled, you will be happy. Or if you want to avoid the frustration you can pay to have it done.

You are working hard but it does get easier, and pretty soon everything will be working top notch again and you will know when anything is out of sorts and you will be able to figure it out quicker next time. Hang in there, I know it is tough but you are learning a lot and saving a lot of money.

Also don't think if you took it to a shop it would be less frustrating. What would it be like if you took it to a shop and they gave it back to you with vibrations. Chances are they would make you prove the vibrations weren't there first and be charging you labor to try and figure it out. Believe me that is more frustrating than this.

Hang in there you got this!
Also, the vibration was not there prior to the clutch job and rear drive shaft issues. I should have waited to do the rear DS, but it is what it is.
 
Took care of most of the exhaust leak noise this morning, the Jeep is quieter now, but suill not as quiet as it was prior to the new clutch job.

Let me ask you guys this - how did your clutches feel when you first started driving on them? I have about 110 miles on mine, and there seems to be a springy crunch feeling in the pedal that coincides with the noise that I have been describing. It does seem to have dissipated a little, but it is still there.
 
Fuck it. I ordered another clutch kit and I still have the second flywhee that was added to my order by mistake. I will wait for this shitty weather to calm down and redo the clutch yet again. If it's fucked aftet this attempt, I'll take the hit and sell it for whatever I can get for it. If it comes out flawless, I will hopefully recoup some of the money that I put into the upgrades and pseudo restoration. Either way, this thing needs to exit my life for good.
 
The rain stopped late this afternoon, so I decided to tear it down. Only took a few hours to get the transmission out this time, and I work slow.

The first thing I noticed was rust already forming on the flywheel, I suppose that is normal though. Next, I saw some gouges on the pressure plate. The plate also looks deformed in some of the areas surrounding the bolt holes. Third, there looks to be contamination on the clutch disc facing the pressure plate, with some also on the plate side.

Here's some photos of everything:

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C53FDFF6-4F2D-4072-9B6F-CC07B249C696.webp
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1E477348-781B-4EAA-8BBC-03B4AEA88935.webp
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C32FB220-2624-4A01-B2D1-B7931B8B1958.webp
 
Your flywheel and clutch cover would have been covered with a film. Did you clean that off with some brake clean by chance? I am assuming sso since you have surface rust on your flywheel that is normal. By the way looking at the pictures I don't see anything wrong especially nothing that looks like it would have been rattling.

What I do find odd though is it looks like you only have one alignment dowel on the cover and it looks like it is in a bolt hole. although that said I don't see any extra holes on the flywheel for alignment dowels. Am I looking at that right the the next to the last picture is that a dowel or a bolt?

Also I just noticed you have a crankshaft sensor eccentric on your flywheel is there any chance that was rubbing? Check that for scratches and look at the sensor. It is probably ok, but might be worth a check?
 
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