In need of Warn 5 pin plug

[Coalcracker18]

I bought a Warn 9.5 XP earlier this year that was junk and I rebuilt it. The PO for whatever reason cut off the accessory plug for the remote on the control pack. Does anyone have a less expensive solution than buying a new 5 pin socket from Warn? I was wanting to put the plug in the Jeep somewhere anyway so I was thinking of running some CAT6 cable from the power pack to the interior and using some sort of trailer plug or something of that nature. The best replacement option I could find from Warn was this remote socket kit for $69
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wrn-90394 Which I guess isn't terribly expensive and it is a warn part. Does anyone have a better solution or just buy the Warn remote socket?

 

[Wildman]

They've gone up in price a lot since I'd bought one.

 

[macleanflood]

You could run in cab controls.

-Mac

 

[DeltaNu1142]

You could run in cab controls.

That’s my plan, too. In-cab controls, and keep the wireless handheld for remote operation.

If you’re considering replacing the plug… you’d have to hardwire that to the box anyway, right? Any reason you wouldn’t just wire your CAT5 in instead of the Warn plug and run it to some buttons, eliminating the need for the plug?

 

[sab]

Regarding the use of Cat 5 cable for winch controls, keep in mind that it’s only 24 gauge, so mind your amperage. That small of wire, even doubling up wires, may not handle the required current.

 

[mrblaine]

That’s my plan, too. In-cab controls, and keep the wireless handheld for remote operation.

If you’re considering replacing the plug… you’d have to hardwire that to the box anyway, right? Any reason you wouldn’t just wire your CAT5 in instead of the Warn plug and run it to some buttons, eliminating the need for the plug?

I'm am not a fan of ever circumventing the 5 pin plug on the winch and never will be. I've done many in cab controls for winches. They are always built around running the wired remote from the winch into the cab and then mounting the switch out of the remote handle some place inside. The plug stores inside the grill, when ready, fish it out and plug it in. I always add an arm switch as well that cuts the power wire.

Contrary fully to the intent of this thread is I always make the owner buy a second remote that goes beside the driver seat in the event someone needs to operate the winch remotely.

 

[macleanflood]

I'd love to find a cheaper alternative for that receptacle. I've got my 9.5 box under the hood and I'd love to run a 20g 5 conductor SO cord a few feet and mount it next to the winch so when the in cab controls are not convenient I don't have to pop the hood to plug in my controller.

My 9.5xp also came with Warn's remote control...it died a month or two in...I suspect the transmitter couldn't handle the under hood temperatures...so again, another reason to wire up another receptacle... dedicated to a wireless remote in a cooler, safer location.

-Mac

P.S. I called Warn about the remote control and they said they didn't have any in stock at the time...then they didn't log the call. I called up a few months later and they said the remote was now past the one year warranty.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I'm am not a fan of ever circumventing the 5 pin plug on the winch and never will be. I've done many in cab controls for winches. They are always built around running the wired remote from the winch into the cab and then mounting the switch out of the remote handle some place inside. The plug stores inside the grill, when ready, fish it out and plug it in. I always add an arm switch as well that cuts the power wire.

Arm/Disarm switch is more than a good idea. I wouldn't install in-cab controls without one.

What's your concern about using other-than-OEM switches for the controls inside the cab? Is it to ensure the wiring doesn't get screwed up and result in unintended operation?

Keeping the control plug at/around the winch isn't a bad idea... what you end up doing, then, is just running parallel wiring for your controls. It sounds like OP has some wiring but no female end for the remote. So it's a repair back to factory state, or for a lower cost, running the wires into the cab to a few switches. At minimum, he has some wire splicing to do.

For OP, I got this from the other forum:

The "winch power" switch is your arm/disarm. If you follow the diagram, that relay provides the ground to the control circuit in the cab that allows the in & out signals to close. I don't really like this method because a grounded wire (accidentally cut, etc.) anywhere after the control box could result in accidental arming of the winch (though, probably not accidental operation). I'd probably move the winch control box power to a relay under the hood, then wire the coil to an "arm" switch inside the cab:

 

[mrblaine]

Arm/Disarm switch is more than a good idea. I wouldn't install in-cab controls without one.

What's your concern about using other-than-OEM switches for the controls inside the cab? Is it to ensure the wiring doesn't get screwed up and result in unintended operation?

Keeping the control plug at/around the winch isn't a bad idea... what you end up doing, then, is just running parallel wiring for your controls. It sounds like OP has some wiring but no female end for the remote. So it's a repair back to factory state, or for a lower cost, running the wires into the cab to a few switches.

For OP, I got this from the other forum:

View attachment 551876

The "winch power" switch is your arm/disarm. If you follow the diagram, that relay provides the ground to the control circuit in the cab that allows the in & out signals to close. I don't really like this method because a grounded wire (accidentally cut, etc.) anywhere after the control box could result in accidental arming of the winch (though, probably not accidental operation). I'd probably move the winch control box power to a relay under the hood, then wire the coil to an "arm" switch inside the cab:

View attachment 551916

I strongly disagree with drilling a hole in the housing to run a wire into for the solenoids/contactor. It is already done, I don't need to do it again. But, I already noted my method was and would be contrary to being a cheap ass.

 

[mrblaine]

I'd love to find a cheaper alternative for that receptacle. I've got my 9.5 box under the hood and I'd love to run a 20g 5 conductor SO cord a few feet and mount it next to the winch so when the in cab controls are not convenient I don't have to pop the hood to plug in my controller.

My 9.5xp also came with Warn's remote control...it died a month or two in...I suspect the transmitter couldn't handle the under hood temperatures...so again, another reason to wire up another receptacle... dedicated to a wireless remote in a cooler, safer location.

-Mac

P.S. I called Warn about the remote control and they said they didn't have any in stock at the time...then they didn't log the call. I called up a few months later and they said the remote was now past the one year warranty.

I have the SO cord on a spool if you ever need any.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

My 9.5xp also came with Warn's remote control...it died a month or two in...I suspect the transmitter couldn't handle the under hood temperatures...so again, another reason to wire up another receptacle... dedicated to a wireless remote in a cooler, safer location.

I never thought of that. I like putting the solenoid box under the hood to keep it out of the elements, mud, etc. I have a Smittybilt 12k with a wireless remote on my F150. I 3D printed a mount for it on the side of my battery box. It has the wireless receiver built in. When I want to use the winch, I pop the hood and turn on wireless. I've never plugged the winch in. Through... what, 4 years in FL heat living outside and now almost 4 more in Maine, it's still turning. I was more concerned the 3D print would melt from underhood temps, but so far so good.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I strongly disagree with drilling a hole in the housing to run a wire into for the solenoids/contactor. It is already done, I don't need to do it again.

Ah. No, I wouldn't drill any holes either. That shouldn't be necessary... anyway, whatever OP ends up doing, my guess is he'll use whatever hole is already there.

I already noted my method was and would be contrary to being a cheap ass.

We really don't have to do this again. There are many ways to do this correctly, and some can be done with cost in mind as well. I'm considering cost because it's now been mentioned by a couple people posting in this thread including the OP.

 

[macleanflood]

What's your concern about using other-than-OEM switches for the controls inside the cab?

I put Carling style switches on my dash from ch4x4.com.

-Mac

 

[DeltaNu1142]

I put Carling style switches on my dash from ch4x4.com.

I like it.

I've got a switch panel designed with the help of the guy(s?) at www.custom3dfab.com. Yours looks like it might have come from there? I'm planning to go with the "Toyota Small" format switches.

 

[mrblaine]

I put Carling style switches on my dash from ch4x4.com.

View attachment 551966

-Mac

Your stuff is different than ours. When we do in cab winching, we are recovering the vehicle we are sitting in and trying to steer, brake, and winch all at the same time. As such, we need to be able to keep a steady hand on the winch control so we can also steer at the same time. That location would never work for us. I do this instead by making a little switch pod and mounting it to the side of the dash bezel. You can brace your hand on the dash, operate the switch, it is in your sight line so you don't have to take your eyes off of the spotter, and the orientation of in and out are intuitive and correct.

Don't let the silly shadows fool, there are not gaps where it fits against the bezel.

 

[mrblaine]

What's your concern about using other-than-OEM switches for the controls inside the cab? Is it to ensure the wiring doesn't get screwed up and result in unintended operation?

Nope, just personal preference. It is already a quality DPDT switch so I don't have to hunt one down.

Keeping the control plug at/around the winch isn't a bad idea... what you end up doing, then, is just running parallel wiring for your controls.

Not parallel since they are not hardwired. 2 separate remotes, I just cut one up and use the parts from it to build an in-cab hard mounted controller. Nothing is altered at the winch. Just fish the remote plug out of the grill from behind one of the slots and plug it into the winch. If you want to use the hand held remote, unplug the other one and plug in the hand held. It also prevents inadventent use of the winch with another disconnect by not having anything plugged in that can run the winch until you want to.

 

[DeltaNu1142]

Ahh, I see. It's parallel wiring... but a max of 1 is connected to the winch at any given time. And most of the time it's 0.

Inadvertent bumping of winch controls should definitely be addressed so as to avoid it with some kind of electrical lockout. Removing a fuse from the control wiring until winching is needed would work. I have no interest in replacing parts because someone in the vehicle got curious/button-happy.

 

[mrblaine]

Ahh, I see. It's parallel wiring... but a max of 1 is connected to the winch at any given time. And most of the time it's 0.

Inadvertent bumping of winch controls should definitely be addressed so as to avoid it with some kind of electrical lockout. Removing a fuse from the control wiring until winching is needed would work. I have no interest in replacing parts because someone in the vehicle got curious/button-happy.

The arm wire is connected to a relay that acts as a remote switch which is controlled by a button on the Switch Pro head unit. The relay just connects the red power wire in the remote cable back together to arm the winch switch.

There is a small LED pointed slightly off angle to not bother your eyes as much beside the switch. It does not light up until the switch is hot and able to run the winch since it gets power from the output side of the red wire which is hot from the winch.

Plugging in the remote won't turn the light on, pushing the arm button won't turn the light on. The arm button has to be pushed and the remote has to be plugged into the winch before the indicator tells you it is good to go. No light, no winch from in the cab control.

 

[Coalcracker18]

Wow, a lot of responses here. First off I have the old style power pack where the solenoids are open and not in a sealed pack, I guess that’s how the new ones are manufactured.

I plan on mounting it under the hood somewhere not directly in the elements.
This is what I wound up buying for the plugs.

They are a WEIPU WS20 aviation plug. $9 and change on eBay for the set. I got two pairs. One will be mounted on the grill somewhere and the other will be mounted in the cab so I can control the winch inside or out.

I like having the remote in my hand while I’m doing a recovery so I can still move my hands freely and not have a hand glued to the dash. The plug in the grill will mainly be for when I need to run the cable out to get it re spooled back on the drum properly.

 

[Coalcracker18]

I have the SO cord on a spool if you ever need any.

Where did you find the 5 conductor SO cord? I looked a few months ago when I got the winch for some and couldn’t find any.