More parking brakes!

2 or 3 or maybe several things will cause large amounts of suck there.
If you get the parking brakes functioning correctly, they will snap off the anchor lug on the cast backing plate if you drive off in 4 low.
Not being able to modulate the brakes when trying to do a turn is at best a poor compromise.
Our first set of homebrew cutting brakes using 2 parking brake handles in the stock location worked but only because we had drum brakes and even then we tore up parts at a prodigious rate inside the drums.
Line locks are on or off. Not a lot of modulation. The last part that brings the suck is the rear calipers aren't big enough to lock a tire in a turn.
As many know I run that homebrew setup in my rig. It works OK, certainly not as well as a true hydro setup, but I did it mainly because it was a fun little project.

It’s been in there many, many years, and I’ve not had any issues tearing up parts - but I’m running a 1 ton disk setup back there, so maybe that helps.
 
4x4 makes the parking break affect 4 wheels, but doesn't make them any less weak. I do the same and don't trust it. If on a hill I'll put it in 4low too for extra engine holding.

Park is one of the benefits of automatic transmissions. I don't trust parking breaks but putting the transmission in park and 4low is quite secure.

Another old-school method of getting a powerful parking break is mounting a rotor on the tcase output or axle pinion. Holding power is multiplied by the axle ratio.

Honestly, I'd start with chocks and find some way to hang them out of the way on the bumper or tire carrier. That's what I do with tire chains after I use them so they don't dirty up the inside.

breakbrake.webp
 
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Technically three... vehicle brakes, metal brake and break...

But who's counting...

-Mac
 
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