Electric vacuum pump to improve brakes

[macleanflood]

Seems like the best option is four new holes through the firewall... centering the rod/clevis through the existing hole for optimum engagement with the brake pedal. Correct? Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.

That part number you gave me above for a seperate master isn't very available in the US. I'll probably just get a small fluid reservoir and some 1/4" line.

I thought the iBooster was 1 1/16"...at least that's what documentation I'm finding... although this site seems to show 15/16".

https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/

That site also shows using a remote reservoir.

I need to up my game on tubing flare tools. I have a very basic cheap auto parts store one. I was looking at the bench vice K-Tool on Eastwood's site...they have a sale too...and at the Capri tool 3/16" tool on Amazon.

The K-Tool looks very comprehensive but isn't well suited for on vehicle use for quick repairs like the Capri... ultimately you'd probably need something like both.

Any suggestions for good brake tools?

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

Seems like the best option is four new holes through the firewall... centering the rod/clevis through the existing hole for optimum engagement with the brake pedal. Correct?

Yes and no. There are two factors in play, angle of the booster at the firewall and pedal rod length. Yes, you want to be nicely centered but only if the angle of the new booster is similar to the angle of the TJ booster.

Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.

Doesn't matter if you do or don't cut them down, they overlap the new studs so it can't be done without welding or some other method that doesn't use both sets of studs to attach stuff to stuff.

That part number you gave me above for a seperate master isn't very available in the US. I'll probably just get a small fluid reservoir and some 1/4" line.

Be aware that the line you use has to be brake fluid compatible or bad things happen. Also be aware it has to gravity feed the master so it has to be higher. That may not be easy.

Any suggestions for good brake tools?

-Mac

Not for the casual user. The ones you mentioned at Eastwood are fine. There are copies of that which are also fine. I have one or several of each type and they are not terrible. Unlimited budget and using some good Bundy tube, I'd get another Mastercool. Southwest has some stellar Bundy tube which is all I use now. Don't buy into the nickel copper shit. It has one thing going for it, easy to bend. Not that easy to get a good flare in, doesn't hold up to any abuse because, well, it's easy to bend. The (oddly generic) stuff from Southwest bends almost as easily, flares exceptionally well, and is a lot more durable. Far easier to bend and use than annealed stainless which is not something to mess with if you don't know what you are doing.

 

[Tob]

Seems like the best option is four new holes through the firewall... centering the rod/clevis through the existing hole for optimum engagement with the brake pedal. Correct? Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.

That part number you gave me above for a seperate master isn't very available in the US. I'll probably just get a small fluid reservoir and some 1/4" line.

I thought the iBooster was 1 1/16"...at least that's what documentation I'm finding... although this site seems to show 15/16".

https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/

That site also shows using a remote reservoir.

I need to up my game on tubing flare tools. I have a very basic cheap auto parts store one. I was looking at the bench vice K-Tool on Eastwood's site...they have a sale too...and at the Capri tool 3/16" tool on Amazon.

The K-Tool looks very comprehensive but isn't well suited for on vehicle use for quick repairs like the Capri... ultimately you'd probably need something like both.

Any suggestions for good brake tools?

-Mac

@sab has recently done lots of brake work including flaring and could possibly chime in on the best flaring tool suited for your uses. I know he was using a Ridgid flaring tool that he really liked.

 

[macleanflood]

Big brake kit installed. Love it. Can lock up the fronts on gravel. It's amazing how more comfortable you feel in a vehicle you know you can stop.

Going to daily drive it while I gather parts and tools for the iBooster.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

Big brake kit installed. Love it. Can lock up the fronts on gravel. It's amazing how more comfortable you feel in a vehicle you know you can stop.

Going to daily drive it while I gather parts and tools for the iBooster.

View attachment 617388

-Mac

Keep doing the break in aggressively. It will easily lock up the fronts on asphalt.

 

[NskLJ]

Seems like the best option is four new holes through the firewall... centering the rod/clevis through the existing hole for optimum engagement with the brake pedal. Correct? Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.

That part number you gave me above for a seperate master isn't very available in the US. I'll probably just get a small fluid reservoir and some 1/4" line.

I thought the iBooster was 1 1/16"...at least that's what documentation I'm finding... although this site seems to show 15/16".

https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/

That site also shows using a remote reservoir.

I need to up my game on tubing flare tools. I have a very basic cheap auto parts store one. I was looking at the bench vice K-Tool on Eastwood's site...they have a sale too...and at the Capri tool 3/16" tool on Amazon.

The K-Tool looks very comprehensive but isn't well suited for on vehicle use for quick repairs like the Capri... ultimately you'd probably need something like both.

Any suggestions for good brake tools?

-Mac

Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.
I have used rectangular tubing to make an adapter for hydro boosters. If the center rod is long enough to reach the pedal a piece of rectangular tubing will solve the mismatched bolt pattern issue

 

[mrblaine]

Seems like the best option is four new holes through the firewall... centering the rod/clevis through the existing hole for optimum engagement with the brake pedal. Correct? Otherwise I'd need to make a very thick adapter plate to accommodate the studs on the iBooster (or cut them down). That doesn't sound ideal, but it's possible.

That part number you gave me above for a seperate master isn't very available in the US. I'll probably just get a small fluid reservoir and some 1/4" line.

I thought the iBooster was 1 1/16"...at least that's what documentation I'm finding... although this site seems to show 15/16".

https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/

That site also shows using a remote reservoir.

I need to up my game on tubing flare tools. I have a very basic cheap auto parts store one. I was looking at the bench vice K-Tool on Eastwood's site...they have a sale too...and at the Capri tool 3/16" tool on Amazon.

The K-Tool looks very comprehensive but isn't well suited for on vehicle use for quick repairs like the Capri... ultimately you'd probably need something like both.

Any suggestions for good brake tools?

-Mac

https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-26011098-Reservoir-Kit/dp/B016VAXWV6?tag=wranglerorg-20

Not terrible.

 

[macleanflood]

https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-26011098-Reservoir-Kit/dp/B016VAXWV6?tag=wranglerorg-20

Not terrible.

Ordered! Perfect...and it includes a known good hose.

-Mac

 

[sab]

Southwest has some stellar Bundy tube which is all I use now. Don't buy into the nickel copper shit. It has one thing going for it, easy to bend. Not that easy to get a good flare in, doesn't hold up to any abuse because, well, it's easy to bend. The (oddly generic) stuff from Southwest bends almost as easily, flares exceptionally well, and is a lot more durable. Far easier to bend and use than annealed stainless which is not something to mess with if you don't know what you are doing.

Listen to the Wizard and stick with the Bundy tubing. I was able to figure out how to work with stainless steel, but it was time consuming. My struggles are documented in my build thread, starting here. I'm glad I now know how to do it, but it as about as unforgiving as any process could ever be due to the hyper-sensitivity that alloy has to cold working. One of the big learning curves was simply how to cut it because doing that wrong dooms your flares. Also, double flares and stainless steel are incompatible, at least as far as I'm concerned. It might be possible if you re-anneal between the two flares - I wasn't willing to do that. I used AN fittings for all my tubing ends because they only require a single flare.

@sab has recently done lots of brake work including flaring and could possibly chime in on the best flaring tool suited for your uses. I know he was using a Ridgid flaring tool that he really liked.

I bought the K-tool and didn't like it for single flaring the stainless tubing. The 37° Ridgid flaring tool is outstanding. Unbelievably great tool! It doesn't do double flares, though.

 

[mrblaine]

https://swperformanceparts.com/coll...-steel-tube-roll-with-fittings-brake-line-kit

I had a habit of ordering in a sample roll of brake hard line when I came across it and then trying to use it. I gave away most if not all of it except for the rolls of the above I now have. It has simply just worked. I figured it would be kind of cheesy given that they include a selection of what would generally be useless tube nuts. Turns out to be some pretty stellar material. I can do stainless, it just isn't worth the effort.

 

[macleanflood]

I wonder who actually makes that Rigid flare tool...since it seems that Rigid just slaps stickers on things like Emerson vacuums.

And while that's perfect for single flares I need a M12 bubble flare to hook this up...or...maybe an adapter isn't such a bad thing at this point.

-Mac

 

[Woodrow]

Keep doing the break in aggressively. It will easily lock up the fronts on asphalt.

A few weeks ago (before the Moab trip) a guy started to pull out in front of me on a country road. I was going 55-60 and probably 125-150 ft from him. He stopped but not before I was on the brakes. That was the first real world panic stop I've had since the BMB brakes went in several years ago and just after I had upgraded to a Dana 44 rear with all new BMB disc stuff. The fronts locked and the rig stopped hard and straight. I was happy

 

[tobiism]

Yes and no. There are two factors in play, angle of the booster at the firewall and pedal rod length. Yes, you want to be nicely centered but only if the angle of the new booster is similar to the angle of the TJ booster.

Doesn't matter if you do or don't cut them down, they overlap the new studs so it can't be done without welding or some other method that doesn't use both sets of studs to attach stuff to stuff.

Be aware that the line you use has to be brake fluid compatible or bad things happen. Also be aware it has to gravity feed the master so it has to be higher. That may not be easy.

Not for the casual user. The ones you mentioned at Eastwood are fine. There are copies of that which are also fine. I have one or several of each type and they are not terrible. Unlimited budget and using some good Bundy tube, I'd get another Mastercool. Southwest has some stellar Bundy tube which is all I use now. Don't buy into the nickel copper shit. It has one thing going for it, easy to bend. Not that easy to get a good flare in, doesn't hold up to any abuse because, well, it's easy to bend. The (oddly generic) stuff from Southwest bends almost as easily, flares exceptionally well, and is a lot more durable. Far easier to bend and use than annealed stainless which is not something to mess with if you don't know what you are doing.

Good info on the nickel copper

 

[sab]

I wonder who actually makes that Rigid flare tool...since it seems that Rigid just slaps stickers on things like Emerson vacuums.

That may be the case with their power tools nowadays (Emerson owns Ridgid), but Ridgid invented the pipe wrench, and their plumbing hand tool line has always been home-grown, high-quality stuff. My plumber friends swear by them. I would bet that Ridgid makes that flaring tool themselves.

 

[mrblaine]

And while that's perfect for single flares I need a M12 bubble flare to hook this up...or...maybe an adapter isn't such a bad thing at this point.

-Mac

As I explained above, that isn't accurate. The dies you would select for doing a flare are by line size and type, not thread size. If the line is 3/16", then you select the dies for a bubble flare on 3/16" line. A 12mm bubble flare is almost 1/2" and line that size is not ever used for any Jeep sized brakes.

 

[macleanflood]

As I explained above, that isn't accurate.

Misspoke...I need the ability to crimp a 3/16" / 4.75mm bubble flare in order to adapt the existing fittings from the proportioning valve to the iBooster 's double M12.

Got parts ordered from BelMetric and Amazon.

More to follow. Sure wish I had a pedal box for my wrecked tub. Would make mock up easier. Might be time for a trip to a junkyard.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

More to follow. Sure wish I had a pedal box for my wrecked tub. Would make mock up easier. Might be time for a trip to a junkyard.

-Mac

Auto or manual?

 

[macleanflood]

Auto or manual?

Probably doesn't matter just going to use it for mock up.

I suppose if I thought about it I should get an auto so I'd be ready for that 32RH swap when my knee can't handle the clutch anymore.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

Probably doesn't matter just going to use it for mock up.

I suppose if I thought about it I should get an auto so I'd be ready for that 32RH swap when my knee can't handle the clutch anymore.

-Mac

I have many manual set ups from doing manual to auto swaps. After I posted I realized it makes no difference since the brake pedal is the same. You are welcome to one for the cost of shipping.

 

[macleanflood]

Local junkyard B and R has three TJ Wranglers. And funny enough the guy I talked to, his dad has an 05 with a six speed that's gone that he'll sell me for $2500. I told the kid to give my number to his dad. I can throw a transmission in and sell it for 5 or 6 or more. I have my old AX-15... it's rebuilt except the back case is cracked and hemmoraging fluid.

Anyone want me to look for a particular part? =)

-Mac