For what it’s worth, I’m perfectly happy on my 33s. There is nothing in our area that require a 35s. Unfortunately, people get into group think and one upsmanship and try to outdo one another.
Let me know what you think about this TJ
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For what it’s worth, I’m perfectly happy on my 33s. There is nothing in our area that require a 35s. Unfortunately, people get into group think and one upsmanship and try to outdo one another.
I didn’t realize that you were in Western Florida as well.
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Another decent looking white Sahara
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/d/01-jeep-wrangler-sahara/6606844691.html
Thanks for the link. I texted him for some photos of the bottom.
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Decision time and I need your help!
I was able to get in touch with the seller of that 2001 Sahara linked above. He gave me some history of the jeep. He’s owned it for the last five years. It was originally purchased in North Carolina and shortly thereafter came down to Florida, where it served as a ranch vehicle for the original owner. Second owner purchased it for a short while and then he is the third owner of record. No accidents and clean title. He’s done routine maintenance and two years ago replaced the throwout bearing and the clutch.
Here are the photos he sent me today. I am scheduled to go see it tomorrow and possibly purchase it.
We agreed on an $8000 cash price. I’m really looking forward to your thoughts.
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For $8000 I would say that’s a good buy. It’s got a Fabtech lift which is garbage. The springs are good, but you’ll want new shocks as those Fabtech shocks are absolutely horrid. Mine came with a Fabtech lift so I know first hand.
Some of the bolt on components arrested, such is the steering in the exhaust. However, that’s not uncommon and can easily be fixed with new components. The important part is that the frame looks mostly rust free. I see a few areas of surface rust, however, they are all in common areas and should be able to easily be fixed. I don’t see any frame right or major rust, that’s the good thing!
If you get that thing, clean up the areas of the frame to have surface rust, repaint them, go over them with something like fluid film, and you shouldn’t have to worry about it again.
There's your white TJ. Much more of a reasonable looking Jeep than what we've seen so far. Hopefully it runs and drives ok. Decent price also.
Go for it...looks very nice for the price...new rancho 5000x shocks, bed rug the interior, just take a closer look at both differentials as they look "wet". I would swap the gear oil out and keep an eye on it to see if or amount that is leaking, then address accordingly.
Thank you to those who have commented so far. I feel encouraged. The seller mentioned that while the AC works and it blows air colder than the ambient temperature, he feels it needs a recharge as it is not very cold. He is also sending me some additional photos and narrative via email that I will post on this thread. I am scheduled to see him tomorrow morning.
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Here is the narrative from the seller. We agreed on $8k cash.
The bad-
Rhino lining coming off in the back,
Windows in top are hard to see through due to age, shocks are rusty, rusty on parts that are normally rusty (ie muffler, pipe, drive shaft, axles) this is not super rusty or rusted out by any means. Just a lot of surface rust. Hole in the seat(small), diffs weep- ive done regular diff fluid changes every year using mobile one full synthetic fluid. Never low on fluid. Never leaves a spot or drips. They will just weep after a while. Just about all tjs do. Reverse can be tricky to get into- nothing wrong with the gear, after you drive it for a couple days you will have no problem and not even think about it. Its been like this since I bought it. I always by habbit shift twice into 5th to line the syncros up and then it falls right into reverse. I never think about it but whenever someone drives it that doesn't drive jeeps they miss reverse the 1st time or 2. Paint chip on hood.
The good-
Very good frame and body, paint is in great shape besides small forementioned chip. Cd player with sound bar, kicker speakers and kickers in door. Seats in really good shape. Motor runs great and quite. No knocks or valve train noise. Trans shifts good. Tires are great-low road no ice but still plenty of grip. About 75% tread left. Sits level and suspension works good. No wobble at highway speed. Tracks good, tires were just rotated and balanced. 4wd works with no problems at all both hi and low. When I bought it the radiator had a crack in it (known to happen with the metal/plastic radiators) I replaced it with a full aluminum griffin radiator($400) as well as new thermostat, and pump. Since I've owned it, temp has never gone over about 35%. The jeeps just looks really good. I get compliments on it all the time.
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The bad-
Rhino lining coming off in the back,
Windows in top are hard to see through due to age, shocks are rusty, rusty on parts that are normally rusty (ie muffler, pipe, drive shaft, axles) this is not super rusty or rusted out by any means. Just a lot of surface rust. Hole in the seat(small), diffs weep- ive done regular diff fluid changes every year using mobile one full synthetic fluid. Never low on fluid. Never leaves a spot or drips. They will just weep after a while. Just about all tjs do. Reverse can be tricky to get into- nothing wrong with the gear, after you drive it for a couple days you will have no problem and not even think about it. Its been like this since I bought it. I always by habbit shift twice into 5th to line the syncros up and then it falls right into reverse. I never think about it but whenever someone drives it that doesn't drive jeeps they miss reverse the 1st time or 2. Paint chip on hood.
The good-
Very good frame and body, paint is in great shape besides small forementioned chip. Cd player with sound bar, kicker speakers and kickers in door. Seats in really good shape. Motor runs great and quite. No knocks or valve train noise. Trans shifts good. Tires are great-low road no ice but still plenty of grip. About 75% tread left. Sits level and suspension works good. No wobble at highway speed. Tracks good, tires were just rotated and balanced. 4wd works with no problems at all both hi and low. When I bought it the radiator had a crack in it (known to happen with the metal/plastic radiators) I replaced it with a full aluminum griffin radiator($400) as well as new thermostat, and pump. Since I've owned it, temp has never gone over about 35%. The jeeps just looks really good. I get compliments on it all the time.
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That one looks pretty good. As long as it is solid mechanically, it is a good buy. Full maintenance job, tune up, belt/s, throw in a Bed Rug or Bed Tred, Rancho 5000X shocks, should be good to go.
+1 on above....I have polished out my soft top windows with pretty good results using a DA polisher and various grades of polish
Thank you all. Should I be concerned about the reverse issue?
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For $8 k it is a good deal. You have $2k left over to fix up anything else....
I am in Naples and that would be a great deal in our area.
You can get a new Smittybilt top for $250... a/c is a $5 can of r134...
A few hours on a wire wheel to deal with under carriage rust...
It’s an older veh and will have gremlins... u just deal with those in time. Just get some torx bits and it can be fun
The gear thing may just need fluid changed (Royal Purple syncromesh) made my manual shift nearly perfect instantly
Yet I would never by a vehicle without seeing it in person
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I am in Naples and that would be a great deal in our area.
You can get a new Smittybilt top for $250... a/c is a $5 can of r134...
A few hours on a wire wheel to deal with under carriage rust...
It’s an older veh and will have gremlins... u just deal with those in time. Just get some torx bits and it can be fun
The gear thing may just need fluid changed (Royal Purple syncromesh) made my manual shift nearly perfect instantly
Yet I would never by a vehicle without seeing it in person
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Based on the email alone, my only concern is the transmission.
Personally, I’m not a fan of people describing issues with a Jeep as “it’s a Jeep”. I just don’t buy that at all. There is no reason a well modified Jeep can’t drive and function just as well as a stock one (to a point).
No, not all diffs weep.
“Temp never goes above 35%” - what does that mean? When you drive it, it should be at 210 degrees.
Looks like you will need shocks, a top, perhaps transmission work, some oil leaks, and some free time to deal with rust.
Is there an oil leak? The oil pan looks pretty shiny.
Front pinion looks like it’s leaking.
Look at the rear drums to see if there is any oil on them.
Check the rust on the frame in the area where the skid used to touch the before the transfer case drop was installed.
My 2001 Sahara has none of that rust on any of the components, nor do many Florida Jeeps unless they have been parked at the beach or driven in the salt water. Take a really, really close look at the frame both inside and out. Bring a flashlight to look in the access holes, and pay particular attention to the large holes in front of each rear tire. You will want to check the area where the frame makes the upturn after the control arm mount.
Personally, I’m not a fan of people describing issues with a Jeep as “it’s a Jeep”. I just don’t buy that at all. There is no reason a well modified Jeep can’t drive and function just as well as a stock one (to a point).
No, not all diffs weep.
“Temp never goes above 35%” - what does that mean? When you drive it, it should be at 210 degrees.
Looks like you will need shocks, a top, perhaps transmission work, some oil leaks, and some free time to deal with rust.
Is there an oil leak? The oil pan looks pretty shiny.
Front pinion looks like it’s leaking.
Look at the rear drums to see if there is any oil on them.
Check the rust on the frame in the area where the skid used to touch the before the transfer case drop was installed.
My 2001 Sahara has none of that rust on any of the components, nor do many Florida Jeeps unless they have been parked at the beach or driven in the salt water. Take a really, really close look at the frame both inside and out. Bring a flashlight to look in the access holes, and pay particular attention to the large holes in front of each rear tire. You will want to check the area where the frame makes the upturn after the control arm mount.
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