Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

And I got a ICE chainsaw out of the deal...
It's a older McCullough saw. But pair nice with my battery powered saw.

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Pulled the radiator back out again...

I'm getting good at pulling it by now.

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Took the metal shroud off and test fit the 4.0 shroud.

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Then started cutting..

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Put the radiator back in the Jeep and marked the center of the water pump in reference to the radiator.

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Now getting the fan and shroud on at the same time was fun.

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But it should suck the air through the radiator better than it did with the metal shroud.

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I did trim too much in the upper drivers side corner.

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Wildman said:
Pulled the radiator back out again...

I'm getting good at pulling it by now.

View attachment 672001

Took the metal shroud off and test fit the 4.0 shroud.

View attachment 672002

Then started cutting..

View attachment 672003

Put the radiator back in the Jeep and marked the center of the water pump in reference to the radiator.

View attachment 672003

View attachment 672004

Now getting the fan and shroud on at the same time was fun.

View attachment 672005

View attachment 672006

But it should suck the air through the radiator better than it did with the metal shroud.

View attachment 672008

I did trim too much in the upper drivers side corner.

View attachment 672010

View attachment 672007
Click to expand...

Grab a fender washer for that Driver Side and you should have plenty of 'grab' on the shroud. May need to trim it and/or use the clamp next to it as a 'pinch point'. Just a thought.

Overall - That's a freaking clean install!!
 
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FarFire70 said:
Grab a fender washer for that Driver Side and you should have plenty of 'grab' on the shroud. May need to trim it and/or use the clamp next to it as a 'pinch point'. Just a thought.

Overall - That's a freaking clean install!!
Click to expand...

I'd put a small washer on it as you can see and it's hitting the hose clamp just barely. I'll have to look at it more tomorrow and think.

Next is the height sensor mounts onto the control arms. Need to go pickup some small screws to do this with. Looking at it today I'm thinking I can put 3 screws per tab which should work since they don't really have any tension on them. I'm guessing a #10 or 1/4" should be large enough.

Then try to repair the power point on the rear of the console for the fridge.

And last is the steering plus remove the slugs and put the hubs back on since I'm going to be doing some road driving.
 
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Wildman said:
I'd put a small washer on it as you can see and it's hitting the hose clamp just barely. I'll have to look at it more tomorrow and think.

Next is the height sensor mounts onto the control arms. Need to go pickup some small screws to do this with. Looking at it today I'm thinking I can put 3 screws per tab which should work since they don't really have any tension on them. I'm guessing a #10 or 1/4" should be large enough.

Then try to repair the power point on the rear of the console for the fridge.

And last is the steering plus remove the slugs and put the hubs back on since I'm going to be doing some road driving.
Click to expand...

If you have a small strip of metal you can make a small L shaped clamp to run the bolt through.



Crude as hell but this was my thought... Not quite long enough to bottom out on the mounting surface of the radiator.

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reddvltj said:
If you have a small strip of metal you can make a small L shaped clamp to run the bolt through.



Crude as hell but this was my thought... Not quite long enough to bottom out on the mounting surface of the radiator.

View attachment 672064
Click to expand...

I'd thought about trying to epoxy a washer in place? Maybe do the fender washers with some holes drilled into them and then rivet then through the plastic with one on the inside & one on the outside? And epoxy? Then trim them to clear the upper hose?
 
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Wildman said:
I'd thought about trying to epoxy a washer in place? Maybe do the fender washers with some holes drilled into them and then rivet then through the plastic with one on the inside & one on the outside? And epoxy? Then trim them to clear the upper hose?
Click to expand...

If you really want to get adventurous and you still have the chunk of plastic you cut off of there, you could plastic weld it back in place...
 
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Since I'll be playing on the rocks during this trip I wanted to CYA in case I dented the tie-down points that are welded to the axes. I'm not as worried about the rear ones as I am the front ones. So I purchased a set of axle straps to carry with me for just in case.

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Wildman said:
Since I'll be playing on the rocks during this trip I wanted to CYA in case I dented the tie-down points that are welded to the axes. I'm not as worried about the rear ones as I am the front ones. So I purchased a set of axle straps to carry with me for just in case.

View attachment 672119
Click to expand...

The tire tie downs that I use are Vulcan and I've been very pleased with them. They seem really solidly built.
 
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bbaldwin237 said:
The tire tie downs that I use are Vulcan and I've been very pleased with them. They seem really solidly built.
Click to expand...

I have Mac's straps now and really like them. Before that I had a set of straps with the axle strap built into the straps. They were a set offered by Poly Performance. But they were getting old since I'd bought them in 2007 when I bought the trailer.

I need a 18' with a 14' tilt bed & 4' stationary. I'd get e-track installed on the deck this time.
 
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